With a little imagination and some design + fabrication skill, I wonder if you could turn the unused seat runners into some kind of ramp system?

I think it'd make it to Bristol (especially since we've just driven around 800+ miles). There is a garage pretty close where I used to take it, but I had some questionable exeriences and am now reluctant to use them. However, with full time work and two kids + summer hols, getting the bongo there an...

We've just got back from a nice trip to the Lake District / Yorkshire Moors, taking in lots of lovely sites and involving a lot of Bongo driving. The Bongo didn't miss a beat, but there's been an annoying rattle developing for the last 500 miles or so. I decided to investigate this afternoon as soon...

How would it worth with insurance if you run a different set of wheels for winter and summer (nice alloys for summer, steels with winter tyres for winter) I wonder?

The latest attempt at balancing seems to have done a much better job, but I've not done a road test up to 70 yet. Fingers crossed! The garage check everything this time and concluded that if if it wasn't correct this time, they'd check for dampness inside the tyres.

Based on what you suggest, Stuc I'm thinking it may be a fit issue. It's fine up to about 50 in a straight line, then the wobble increases as you get to around 60-65 (I don't drive much faster than that normally).

Thanks for the replies so far. The wheels I have are Dezent RE http://www.alloywheels.com/6.5x16_Inch_Dezent_RE_Silver_Alloy_Wheels_Only I imagine, like most after market wheels, the bore is large enough to accommodate most vehicles, then the spigot rings are used to reduce the diameter. I ordered t...

I've recently purchased a nice set of alloy wheels, which are the correct fitment for the bongo (67.1 bore, 114.3 stud dia, 7j, 40 offset). They do use a spigot ring. They arrived, were fitted, but I got wheel wobble from 55mph up. So, I took them to a tyre fitting garage who re balanced them and ex...

Thanks for the tip. Mine is the old style. I will give it another go soon.

Hmmm. I'll try again (on the other side) and move around more.

I just did one side of the roof decals (95 worth the grey primer colour roof). I used a hair drier and a thin metal ruler. I tried a toffee wheel, but found it quickly removed the paint! I used surgical spirit to remove adhesive residue and finally tcut to buff it up. Came out well, but took a while.

In order of ease and cost (lowest and easiest first): Remove rust and repaint the widescreen wipers, Remove and possibly replace tatty decals, Touch up and other fixtures and fittings (such as the rear window circular fixing points which can be faded or have paint missing), Tart up the grill with a ...

A useful post. Cheers. One thing I'm struggling with its removing the light cover in order to gain access into the internals. I need to unthread the cable to remove the inner roof. Do you have any advice on how to do this without breaking the clear bit of the light?

16" in black. I think it's a good compromise between looks, a comfortable ride and likelihood of kerb damage

Whether they need a constant currant supply will depend on the type of LED, but they would be a relatively simple thing to install (+ & - in and a + & - out). The original power supply should indicate if it's a constant currant type.