Cold starts

Technical questions and answers about the Mazda Bongo

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shaneosborne

Post by shaneosborne » Wed Feb 21, 2007 5:59 pm

I have found a set of 4 glow plugs for just under £30, do these look okay for the job a they seem pretty cheap?



http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... &rd=1&rd=1
adam

Post by adam » Wed Feb 21, 2007 6:18 pm

Check your vin.( located on passenger door pillar ) If it is less than 300306 then these should suit.

I bought mine for less than £30 three months ago and they seem fine so far.
cezeta

Post by cezeta » Sat Feb 24, 2007 6:16 pm

i just bought ngk ones from ebay as the none branded ones only lasted a year.

to be honest i would pay triple that if i knew they would not fail as its an asss of a job to change them.

the good news though is i have just done it and plugs alone has made the van start and run great :wink:
woz

Post by woz » Sat Apr 07, 2007 12:25 am

Hi there,

Had some similar issues recently and thought I could update fellow bongo'ers and add my findings to this thread... :o without hijacking it!

Started to experience issues with the recent cold, damp starts - I usually give it a few seconds after the 5 sec relay light, mostly fires up into life quite quick. Quite a lot of smoke though and a rough idle for a few mins and then ok for the remainder of the day.

So - Got the fuel filer and Glow plugs changed.
Mentioned the glow plug size / busbar mod (possibility) to 1995 Bongo's to mechanic, I had 83mm blue print to replace.

Collected Bongo - Mechanic said he had no worries, the new plugs went in fine and all was good, but the old ones were longer... Not wanting all the gorey details I assumed all should be OK..
All was fine for 8 days, a noticeable diff from morning cold start, immediate smooth idle, alot cleaner on the smoking. Got a good 580km from the next full tank which is fairly good for mine!

Then I tried to start last week and nothing, kept turning over but no igniting...?
He had not been started for 2 days but never been a problem before and the battery fired good.

After a fun day testing a few bits, I have removed the glowplugs to test them - they were very sooty. I could not get them to glow from touching the engine with ignition on?
I then tested battery - that was OK 12 odd V
Checked no18 fuse by steering wheel
Then tested the busbar and this read .02 with ignition on?
(Managed to start the beast late evening today as it’s quite warm i assume - was very smoky! so I assume it’s not the fuel filter)

May I ask some questions......?!

How else can I test the plugs (if I can’t get 12v to my bus bar?)

My busbar is now touching the fuel rail - is this right?

I found the fusewire thingy just off the +ve batt term that goes to the GP relay - How do I test that ?

I am suspecting it could be the relay? maybe, I am not too sure!
I will test that tomorrow

Should my new 83mm GP sit proud from the block - is that a silly one! I have never looked before today!

I am going to call the mechanic and ask some questions tomorrow..

Thanks all!
BFury has been so useful today!
Woz
pippin

Post by pippin » Sat Apr 07, 2007 8:57 am

You will need to buy a multimeter and then gain the knowledge on how to use it.

It's not rocket science - well actually it is!

It's all about knowing your volts from your ohms.

A car battery is nominally 12V, but you will need to understand the significance of measuring the actual voltage at various times and various places. Like at the glow plug terminals.

Resistance becomes important when you measure across the glowplugs or the fusible link.

A car battery is a potential bomb, of the explosive kind and indeed of the incendiary kind.

If you do not know what you are doing, for safety's sake, leave it to someone who does (or should) know what they are doing.
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dandywarhol
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Post by dandywarhol » Sat Apr 07, 2007 9:17 am

Busbar should NOT touch the fuel rail - that'll create a dead short!..............I reckon thats why there's an extension mod to the short ones
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