Hi All,
Recently joined after the purchase of my Bongo.
Plenty of work carried out so far on the electrical system and general maintenance on my Diesel 1998 model with a pop top.
Today I had a bit of back luck, it started off well by getting the roof to raise a close properly, the mech was packed full of aged grease which had the consistency of molasses.
Once that was removed, clean ups applied to the runners along with some silicone oil and everything was running sweetly - Until..
The canvas which was in a pretty poor shape split I think it was due to the age of the material and from what I could tell the fact that the roof may have been used for some time.
I've sourced a new tent, but I'm struggling to find a complete how to on replacement.
Does anyone have one or could a member give me an idea of how this is done, specifically which screws hold it all together and any tips or hints?
I've read some of the posts regarding this but I'm uncertain exactly what needs unscrewing and also what order to dismantle the existing tent in.
Any help would be most welcome and as I intend to get to some of the club meets, a cold beer or two will be provided to anyone who can get me through this with my sanity intact.
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Ric.
Replacing Roof Tent
Moderators: Doone, westonwarrior
Replacing Roof Tent
1998 Diesel AWD AFT Side Camper Conversion.
Be yourself everyone else is already taken
– Oscar Wilde
Be yourself everyone else is already taken
– Oscar Wilde
Re: Replacing Roof Tent
Much the same process for replacing the tent as a whole, unless you don't have the frame itself ?
AFT Roof frame coming away from the roof.
This problem is caused by the aluminium roof fixing blocks coming away from the fiberglass roof when the epoxy glue fails.
Quite often there will be several blocks pulling out at the same time as any single one failing will be supported by others.
The best solution is to unscrew the upper tent frame from all the blocks, remove all loose blocks, clean them and then re-glue them in again with a two part epoxy (Araldite or similar), then when set, screw the frame back up.
Removing the screws - this is usually the most difficult part! The threads have anti-vibration compound on them so getting them to loosen up is the problem - you need the right size Philips screwdriver head to fit the screws as you are going to be applying a LOT of torque and the screw heads are mild steel hence very easy to damage. Its best to use a torque head rather than a standard hand screwdriver as this allows you to push up hard and at the same time maintain a turning torque for several 10's of seconds whilst the compound loosens. Once the screw starts to "give" then normal forces are adequate!
Once all are out drop the tent frame down and then the blocks will be seen, its likely that the loose ones will come out still attached to the frame, use grips to hold the blocks whilst the screws are removed. Clean up all the loose blocks with a wire brush or file to remove the old glue.
The holes the blocks are glued into do not have an air hole behind them, so when applying epoxy to re-glue them back in, put the glue only on the upper end - not down the sides - push the blocks back in when the glue hits the end it will spread back down the sides of the hole pushing the air out rather than trapping it behind the blocks, otherwise you will find that the blocks are likely to push back out due to the trapped and compressed air!
Once the glue has set then screw the upper frame back in, it may be helpful to lower the roof a few inches to give some slack in the tent material and to allow easier access with the screwdriver in the front upper ones.
Also have the motors used for raising the roof checked, they use the same style blocks and if the others are coming loose so may these, which can end up with an expensive roof repair job!
AFT Roof frame coming away from the roof.
This problem is caused by the aluminium roof fixing blocks coming away from the fiberglass roof when the epoxy glue fails.
Quite often there will be several blocks pulling out at the same time as any single one failing will be supported by others.
The best solution is to unscrew the upper tent frame from all the blocks, remove all loose blocks, clean them and then re-glue them in again with a two part epoxy (Araldite or similar), then when set, screw the frame back up.
Removing the screws - this is usually the most difficult part! The threads have anti-vibration compound on them so getting them to loosen up is the problem - you need the right size Philips screwdriver head to fit the screws as you are going to be applying a LOT of torque and the screw heads are mild steel hence very easy to damage. Its best to use a torque head rather than a standard hand screwdriver as this allows you to push up hard and at the same time maintain a turning torque for several 10's of seconds whilst the compound loosens. Once the screw starts to "give" then normal forces are adequate!
Once all are out drop the tent frame down and then the blocks will be seen, its likely that the loose ones will come out still attached to the frame, use grips to hold the blocks whilst the screws are removed. Clean up all the loose blocks with a wire brush or file to remove the old glue.
The holes the blocks are glued into do not have an air hole behind them, so when applying epoxy to re-glue them back in, put the glue only on the upper end - not down the sides - push the blocks back in when the glue hits the end it will spread back down the sides of the hole pushing the air out rather than trapping it behind the blocks, otherwise you will find that the blocks are likely to push back out due to the trapped and compressed air!
Once the glue has set then screw the upper frame back in, it may be helpful to lower the roof a few inches to give some slack in the tent material and to allow easier access with the screwdriver in the front upper ones.
Also have the motors used for raising the roof checked, they use the same style blocks and if the others are coming loose so may these, which can end up with an expensive roof repair job!
Geoff
2001 Aero V6, AFT, full side conversion.
2001 Aero V6, AFT, full side conversion.
Re: Replacing Roof Tent
Hi Geoff,
Thanks for the quick reply, much appreciated.
The tent is fixed firmly to both the upper and lower - the canvas has an 8 inch rip in it where the normal operation of the pop top put it under tension and caused it to tear.
The canvas looks like original and as far as I can see in pretty poor condition, which accounts for the rip.
I don't think the pop top had been operating fully for some time as it was literally caked in thick grease which was jamming the mech up and preventing it going up fully.
I'll get hold of an impact driver for the removal of the top part of the Tent from the frame.
Couple of quick questions if you wouldn't mind..
Looking at the bottom section it appears that there are a number of screws holding the bottom of the tent to the roof of the van, are these simply a repeat of the solution used on the top of the tent, overcoming the screws and anti shake compound?
Read that there are rivets I'll need to remove to free the bottom of the tent from the roof of the van, is that correct?
Thanks again for your help - it's awesome to be able to tap into your experience with Bongo's.
Regards,
Ric.
Thanks for the quick reply, much appreciated.
The tent is fixed firmly to both the upper and lower - the canvas has an 8 inch rip in it where the normal operation of the pop top put it under tension and caused it to tear.
The canvas looks like original and as far as I can see in pretty poor condition, which accounts for the rip.
I don't think the pop top had been operating fully for some time as it was literally caked in thick grease which was jamming the mech up and preventing it going up fully.
I'll get hold of an impact driver for the removal of the top part of the Tent from the frame.
Couple of quick questions if you wouldn't mind..
Looking at the bottom section it appears that there are a number of screws holding the bottom of the tent to the roof of the van, are these simply a repeat of the solution used on the top of the tent, overcoming the screws and anti shake compound?
Read that there are rivets I'll need to remove to free the bottom of the tent from the roof of the van, is that correct?
Thanks again for your help - it's awesome to be able to tap into your experience with Bongo's.
Regards,
Ric.
1998 Diesel AWD AFT Side Camper Conversion.
Be yourself everyone else is already taken
– Oscar Wilde
Be yourself everyone else is already taken
– Oscar Wilde
Re: Replacing Roof Tent
Be aware that impact screwdrivers are not the ideal method, the roof is "springy" and you will have a job to make use of one. The correct sized screw head (JIS type not Philips as I mentioned above) is CRITICAL and then applying constant pressure to allow time for the thread locking paste to give up and release the thread to allow you to unscrew it.
The lower fixings are SCRIVITS - Screw Rivets - lots of them are used in all vehicles, they have a thread for undoing them, but the thread is built into a plastic spring mechanism such that to install you merely press the cap down it expands the springing section and then it locks onto the threaded element when its fully inserted, ready for removal.
The lower fixings are SCRIVITS - Screw Rivets - lots of them are used in all vehicles, they have a thread for undoing them, but the thread is built into a plastic spring mechanism such that to install you merely press the cap down it expands the springing section and then it locks onto the threaded element when its fully inserted, ready for removal.
Geoff
2001 Aero V6, AFT, full side conversion.
2001 Aero V6, AFT, full side conversion.
Re: Replacing Roof Tent
Hi Geoff,
Massive thank you for the additional info
I hear you ref the JIS bits and I've just ordered a full set to make sure that I don't destroy the screws.
I'll let you know how I get on.
Regards,
Rich.
Massive thank you for the additional info
I hear you ref the JIS bits and I've just ordered a full set to make sure that I don't destroy the screws.
I'll let you know how I get on.
Regards,
Rich.
1998 Diesel AWD AFT Side Camper Conversion.
Be yourself everyone else is already taken
– Oscar Wilde
Be yourself everyone else is already taken
– Oscar Wilde
Re: Replacing Roof Tent
When I've done them in the past, I've used a ratchet handle with individual bits as you need to put on a continuous pressure for several 10's of seconds whilst pushing up on the bit itself. Screwdrivers whilst pushing up is easy, getting the amount of torque on the bit and holding it until the thread-lock gives in can be tiring as your balancing on the roof and nothing around you to provide body support!
Geoff
2001 Aero V6, AFT, full side conversion.
2001 Aero V6, AFT, full side conversion.
Re: Replacing Roof Tent
Hi All,
Quick update:
New tent fitted and while the opportunity was there gas struts replaced and runners cleaned and re-lubed.
Thanks to everyone who provided solid advice, I now have a roof tent that doesn't look like a string vest.
Looking forward to getting about in the Bongo as soon as the weather gets a bit warmer.
Quick update:
New tent fitted and while the opportunity was there gas struts replaced and runners cleaned and re-lubed.
Thanks to everyone who provided solid advice, I now have a roof tent that doesn't look like a string vest.
Looking forward to getting about in the Bongo as soon as the weather gets a bit warmer.
1998 Diesel AWD AFT Side Camper Conversion.
Be yourself everyone else is already taken
– Oscar Wilde
Be yourself everyone else is already taken
– Oscar Wilde