ECU

[Bongolia]

Yes they are for all engine types until 1999 on the site, you will need Flash on the browser - so not phones or tablets;
[url=http://www.g8dhe.net/bwm][img]http://www.g8dhe.net/bwm/screen.jpg[/img][/url]

I have Flash enabled but where your image here shows the manuals to click on I see a white screen with a box top left?

Edit
Got them now thanks.

[psquiddy]

Thanks for the ECU offer that would be great.
Could I be a real pain and ask for an image of the underside of the plug wiring?
Its the wire colours I need, I can get most of what I need from those.
We have OE Mazda scanners, albeit UK carded, if that would help your guy out, he is welcome to bring the van over and have a play if he wants.

Thank for the offer - where in London are you - we are south - Sutton/Croydon area

[Bongolia]

Wrythe Lane SM5 2DG 0208 773 1658.
Ask for Dave as I am not always in.
Thanks for the pixs.

[psquiddy]

Hi folks - an update on progress or rather lack of progress.

I have not been able to find a replacement ECU - I tried all of those places that were suggested on here and many others as well.

I sent it off to one of the suggested repairers but they were not able to test it with their current equipment/knowledge.

The symptoms are:
Engine warning light on
Engine fan always on
Charge light on
Hold is flashing
The car starts, runs and feels to drive ok although I have not driven it very far or more than 30mph.

Errors logged:
P1114 manufacturer control
P0123 Throttle/pedal/position sensor/Switch A circuit high
P0113 Intake air temp sensor1 circuit high
P0118 engine coolant temperature sensor 1 circuit high
P1562 manufacturer control
P0135 o2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 1
____________________________________________

Am I correct in saying that the unit cant be entirely dead as there would be no error codes coming out if it was?

If the unit was dead surely the car would not start and run?

So if the unit is not dead, why am I looking for an alternative one? (Apart from swapping it to see what difference it makes)

Could the unit be "corrupted" but still functioning to some extent?

Could it be that clearing all of the error codes is all that needs doing?

If I clear the codes will that hamper further diagnostics?

If the codes are genuine problems I assume they will come back anyway.

Thanks in advance - I am running out of ideas.

[g8dhe]

The Charge light doesn't go thru the ECU !
Its driven direct from the Alternator, and used to test the sediment light as well if your a diesel.
Maybe your problem is to do with low voltage from the battery ?
If the codes are cleared then they will return if the fault persists, infact most codes will disappear on there own accord when the fault is cleared

[Bongolia]

Your problems could be linked to the alternator as you have a charge light up so thats the first place I would be looking at.
As has been said low voltages and spiky alternators can set up spurious codes.

Clearing the codes off and then running it is exactly what you should do it will not hamper any further diagnostics.
You need to be looking for persistent/returning codes.

[psquiddy]

Another update:

I had a new mechanic look at it today for another opinion.

He didn't think it was the ECU as they rarely go wrong and it is dishing out error codes - if it was dead it would not give readings.

He confirmed that the car is charging even though the charge light is on.

[g8dhe]

The charge light wiring is very simple, its a single direct wire from the alternator to the bulb, it also feeds the Sediment light via a diode to enable the two lights to be self-tested at switch on, about the only thing that could go wrong would be for the diode to the sediment circuit to have failed and that there is sediment (water) in the fuel trap. I think I would just check the sediment trap on the fuel filter and empty it anyway just to eliminate that from possible causes, after that its either the alternator or a wiring loom problem.