Rust treatment Whats the best.

[cmm303]

Read some reviews and bought FE-123 for my coolant pipes and tailgate.

Too soon to comment further and I only know what I read on their tins!
http://www.rust.co.uk/fe-123-best-in-ev ... er/p405034#

[Bongolia]

So the procedure for an interior panel would be to expose the panel, coat with Fertan, wait a day then spray with waxoyl or dinitrol? Would this be the same with the stuff you link to Northern Bongolow or wouldn't that then need the waxoyl?

Thanks

Alan

Well the You Tube video and the application manual state that it is essential to flush out the treated area after 24 hrs or longer to remove the "salts" dislodged by the treatment else they restart the corrosion. This contradicts the advice given by the tech guy at Fertan.
Personally I am going to treat box section internals twice and flush out before waxing.
Its gonna be messy but a waste of time not to.

[BongoBongo123]

I have had little success with the Jenolite/Kurust/Rust remedy converters. They simply slow it and hold it back (one exception is my axle which I Jenolited and then glooped on a tonne of black Hammerite that seems to look as good as it did the day I treated it but I have not looked closely or boshed it with a screwdriver to see what the reality is ). I think POR15 is the way to go for serious anti rust treatment. I am still learning how it is best applied.. (i.e. don't ever shake the can) It is essentially paint which is "super chemical" and quite probably a health hazard to work with so make sure you have the right protective kit, gloves, goggles etc.

POR15 is probably better for larger areas than smaller ones. It is thick gloopy and quite tricky to work with. It stinks/burns your nose. I have tried it on 1 small area 4cms x 4cms so will see how that fairs and also partially along one sill.

Also ANY rust treatment is only as good as the foundation and prep work. Don't leave any little bits at the edges to creep and always over engineer/prepare rather than under do anything. Take your time and really do a good prep job.

http://www.por15.com/POR-15_Rust_Preventive_Coating

http://qr.absolutecoatings.com/QR-asset ... iption.pdf

Important to know is it dries ROCK hard (although is designed to flex) so getting a top coat of the right colour on needs careful prep as the surface is quite hard to sand properly to get a final layer of normal colour coat and layer to bond. They do not have that many colours either.

As it dries it "chemically" grows tentacles/roots to bond with the oxidised metal surface. It apparently dries better in higher humidity than lower humidity.

[Rapidair65]

We used Dinitrol on both our Bongos. Both vans were new imports and therefore no rust. Bought the 'motorhome' kit from Amazon for £148. It includes cavity wax, underbody wax, rust converter spray and a stuff called Drohnex which is an anti stonechip treatment. You get long probes, paper coveralls, mask and spray can handles in the pack. Did one van over a long weekend but quite messy and needed extra rubber bungs for the sills and crossmembers. We used Dinitrol in its clear form to treat aircraft so I was familiar with the product. If it stops corrosion in a Boeing 737 landing gear bay it should work on a Bongo!

[BongoBongo123]

A lot depends on where the rust is and of course such product only really work on rust that is from the outside going inwards and surface rust only, unless you are protecting edges before welding or other filling type work. Accessibility is also important, if you want a "permanent" (is it ever?) solution, or a annual cover over and protect. Size of surface area is also a concern. (you may want a more permanent do it once type of job on those areas.) Undoubtedly experimentation is necessary.

It goes without saying Waxoyl fluid is good for internal box sections where it can remain for years.

I find the converter type products which use some kind of acid gel/fluid to converter oxidisation to a stable surface just slows it down even after painting. Success in longevity of the repair is based on quality of prep. They all seem roughly the same the rust converters.

I like Waxoyl fluid (not the underseal) because it is cheap and easy to get on, a bit unpleasant to work with yes and it is easy to pour some from a bottle into a container and paint it on. It does not last forever of course but once dry not going anywhere unless it is hit by something. I like it for sealing over painted areas for an extra layer of protection. I use it on suspension bars and supports, areas where water pools, wishbones at the front that were showing signs of rust (largely halted now by reapplication each year) and anywhere by sight that looks like it is corroding a bit where water will worsen it. Quite literally anywhere that has a bit of surface rust. I also put a bit over the heater pipes (That were hammerited in exposed 2 years ago and look well preserved)

Just keep it away from brakes.

[Bongolia]

Just sayin is all

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7d27vvnbzHA

Does explain the rusting process tho.

[helen&tony]

Hi
Sacrificial anodes....Popular in the '50s , not popular since the early '60s...says it all , really
Aluminium....sure, it absolutely doesn't rust.....but it CORRODES far worse than steel...
Corrosion / Rust: can't be stopped with magic ointments!
If you really want to stop rust, it has to be prevented from new with paints you wouldn't want the manufacturers to use,,,,too expensive!
All you're doing is to play "catch-up" with rust....Waxoil can work...that's been around since the mid 60s...dinitrol a bit longer...both will work, but it's the prep-work that counts...not the product.
Cheers
Helen

[Bongolia]

l

Hi
Sacrificial anodes....Popular in the '50s , not popular since the early '60s...says it all , really
Aluminium....sure, it absolutely doesn't rust.....but it CORRODES far worse than steel...
Corrosion / Rust: can't be stopped with magic ointments!
If you really want to stop rust, it has to be prevented from new with paints you wouldn't want the manufacturers to use,,,,too expensive!
All you're doing is to play "catch-up" with rust....Waxoil can work...that's been around since the mid 60s...dinitrol a bit longer...both will work, but it's the prep-work that counts...not the product.
Cheers
Helen

And now I feel depressed
Removing the rust is the only real way forward, blasting, grinding or just cutting it out.
The problem for us is that this rusting process is already underway, in my case well advanced inside the box sections and areas that cannot easily be reached. The options in this situation are few so the best that can be hoped for is to break that triangle by excluding the air/moisture from the surfaces affected. Treating the affected steel with rust converters is probably the only cost effective option open to us and then of course it all needs to be wrapped up in something that will penetrate the seams and spot welded areas.
When rust forms in these areas it will expand with some force as it corrodes pushing open the seam and exacerbating the problem. However if you are able to treat those areas with chemicals to release the trapped oxygen and form a coating to help reduce its reformation and then re-coat with a protective medium like wax or oil that will "soak" into the surface it can be reduced to a crawl.
Hopefully.

A common mistake people make is to think that treating the area will actually return strength to the material, this is not so. When an area is badly affected enough to affect the design strength of the component it must be removed and replaced.Sadly

I find myself thinking back to a video ( actually it was a film on a noisy projector and everything ) at college that showed BMC, BMC? Using their Rotodip machine to totally immerse body shells in paint to "provide first class protection against corrosion"
We know how that turned out.

Recently, cannot think why, I have been awakened from my slumbers following a recurring nightmare about how I get the oil out of the upholstery following the entire Bongo being soaked in a make shift Rotodip of hot Waxoyl for several days....

[BongoBongo123]

For surface rust. Really do check out POR15 it is a USA made product so may not adhere to current E.U. chemical requirements, not sure wear good safety equipment. I bought mine for £35.00 for almost 1L on ebay uk. For areas of large size it should be a decent product. As long as an area is paintable it should be ok. It has very good reviews online, do a bit of research on it.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POR15-Rust-Pa ... Swk5FUrR6R

It's gone up a bit in price probably due to Pound falling, like everything we import.

For rust that is eaten through, there is no real option other than welding new metal in place. I am only a DIYer but our Bongo is probably as good as a 95 plate gets rust wise. Zero rust on arches.

If you want to get rid of rust you have to be a ruthless tracking it and killing it as the rust is at eaten through your Bongo.

I note Millers has gone up as well.

[helen&tony]

Hi
Bongolia...
Yes...cutting it out is the only way...and lead-loading the joints after welding....I'm not a fan of filler over the top of seams....
Waxoil...it does seem a little better these days, but it must be repeated every couple of years. That's the loophole in new car corrosion guarantees...I seem to remember on one of my new cars that the fine print stated that you must have the anti-corrosion topped up in 2 years, and that was a chargeable item So much for a multi-year corrosion guarantee if you hadn't had the wax treatment topped up.......
I've only bought a couple of new cars...waste of cash!
I worked as a chemist in a research lab as part of a major metal-oriented business....needless to say, I made my own "anti rust" treatment....The clue on rust treatment as far as I'm concerned is that there are more firms selling rust remedies than there are grains of sand on a beach, with a "NEW" and unbeatable one popping up with monotonous regularity....now IF IF IF there was a proper remedy, there would only be a couple of firms flogging the stuff, because if they worked, there would be no business opening for a new remedy....because all the rusty bits wouldn't rust any more..... ....
Cheers
Helen

[Bongolia]

Yes, I remember a certain Scandinavian manufacturer who had a similar rust warranty. Lifetime if I remember correctly with annual chargeable inspections and only "approved repairers". Nice .
Warranty would be forfeit if you missed one.
Ten four on the lead. Recently bought some for my latest folly @ 9.00 UKP a stick solder paint 30.00 UKP for 450g
Oh and weld through Zinc spray @ 20.00 UKP an aerosol!
Sheesh!

[mikeonb4c]

Waxoyl only regularly needs redoing in high abrasion / water washed areas?

Not a folly Bongolia, just the selfless devotion of someone determined to restore an old classic. You'll love it once its done

[rita]

Bongolia, I think in your case the only way to eliminate the rust is to Jack up the Wing/door Mirrors and replace the van.
Making sure that the Mirrors are not tRusted.


Good Luck.

[Bongolia]

Bongolia, I think in your case the only way to eliminate the rust is to Jack up the Wing/door Mirrors and replace the van.
Making sure that the Mirrors are not tRusted.


Good Luck.

[helen&tony]

Hi
Bongolia
I used to buy lead scrap by the hundredweight and alloy it / clean it in a small furnace ...MUCH cheaper!!!
I remember that underseal / rust treatment...The name eludes me for the moment...it was thought to be the real deal, and everyone used it / sold it on new cars in the early '70's....It was really tough, and stopped any attack from salt / water etc. The only problem was that it rusted underneath and you couldn't see!!!!...LOL
Mike...
Waxoyl needs topping up in most places, and I don't use it at all on rain / water-washed areas!
Cheers
Helen