metal coolant pipe

[phil 1]

Hi
Finally got around to fitting the new rubber pipes after having them for best part of a year and not a minute too soon the metal coolant pipe to the rear heater on the drivers side looked a bit rusty so i scratched at the rust with my finger nail and it started to leek lucky i hadn't put it of any longer. so the tee piece has had it but the rest of the pipe looks good. so i cut the rusty part off and i plan to clip a tee piece on the end of the pipe do you think this would be up to the job?
http://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk ... 2286-p.asp

thoughts please

[Northern Bongolow]

click on this and have a read mate, it may help.
http://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/view ... 15#p571938.

i maybe would use the t piece you link to but it would need to be secured by jubilee type clips, these have a habit of leaking. with the copper option in the link above,or the gen new pipe you can use the gen mazda clip, this allows for expansion/contraction.

[phil 1]

thanks for the link,
I had thought about using copper plumbing parts but decided against it as they are slightly smaller diameter and might not get a good seal. I was going to push a peace of pipe from the new tee over the cut off metal pipe as far as possible and put a combination of as many mazda and jubilee clips as i can fit on there.
Do you think jubilee clips will be a problem on the other connections? as i have used them on all the pipes that i have changed.

[Northern Bongolow]

many people say they have no problems with them.
in my opinion they seal well (usually) on plastic, like the rad top and bottom, and the head outlet metal stub which is quite thick walled, but, ive seen loads that leak on the smaller metal pipes.
haydn does some clips that are like jubilee's (norma clips) but these have an expansion / contraction band on the inside which are said to be good.
the poss problem with the standard jubilee type clips seems to be that when tightened they leave no allowance for the metal stub to expand so they crush the rubber hose, when things cool they can leak, or the heat stretches the clip, again on cooling it can leak. the standard clip on bongo's allows for movement/expansion and most important contraction as most leak on cooling.

the reason for the bump on the end of the pipe is to stop the rubber from blowing off, the coolant system is pressurised to 1.1 bar. if you use the parts shown in my link the end where the pipe fits is the correct size.

[phil 1]

Ok thanks for your help going out to give it a go

[Timster2005]

Hey Phil, how did you get on?

Reason for asking is that I've just found the exact same thing on the pipe to the rear heater on our poor old Bongolina, and was wondering whether some tee piece DIY thingy would do the trick.

There has been a small-ish leak there for a few months which I couldn't face looking at because of the cold weather. Gave it a prod tonight, and it turned into a flood .

I may have to bodge it temporarily with some epoxy putty thing (which I think has been used there before looking at the amount of goop that I had to wipe off), but that won't last long.

Any advice greatly received...

Cheers, Timster.

[thedogsbollox]

Hey Phil, how did you get on?

Reason for asking is that I've just found the exact same thing on the pipe to the rear heater on our poor old Bongolina, and was wondering whether some tee piece DIY thingy would do the trick.

There has been a small-ish leak there for a few months which I couldn't face looking at because of the cold weather. Gave it a prod tonight, and it turned into a flood .

I may have to bodge it temporarily with some epoxy putty thing (which I think has been used there before looking at the amount of goop that I had to wipe off), but that won't last long.

Any advice greatly received...

Cheers, Timster.

I wouldn't bodge it mate. A new head is £2000. Do it proper with genuine parts.

[phil 1]

Hey Phil, how did you get on?

Reason for asking is that I've just found the exact same thing on the pipe to the rear heater on our poor old Bongolina, and was wondering whether some tee piece DIY thingy would do the trick.

There has been a small-ish leak there for a few months which I couldn't face looking at because of the cold weather. Gave it a prod tonight, and it turned into a flood .

I may have to bodge it temporarily with some epoxy putty thing (which I think has been used there before looking at the amount of goop that I had to wipe off), but that won't last long.

Any advice greatly received...

Cheers, Timster.

Hi Timster

It's all back together and working ok.

I went down the plastic tee route in the end as i had one from work and the spec says its suitable for use in coolant systems.

I fitted new rubber pipes and they fitted very well and used JCS Hi Grip hose clips and so far no leaks .

Had i not had the plastic tee i would have gone with the copper tee but the week link is where you cut the rusted tee off as you are left with a pipe with no raised lip so it is possible that the rubber pipe could slip of under pressure. i have used 2 clips on this joint and will be keeping a close eye on things i have a coolant alarm fitted so if the worst should happen at least i should know about it.

I consider this to be a semi pem temp repair and when funds allow i will be fitting a new metal pipe for peace of mind.

Hope this helps

Phil

[Timster2006]

Hi Phil again (sorry, new account, old one got messed up),
my temporary epoxy bodge worked, but now it's time to do it properly as still dripping a bit.

My question is, what are the size (internal/exernal diameter) of those coolant pipes? And what size is the straight rubber hose that is needed to connect the tee piece to the old pipe?

I thought I'd found all the bits I needed last month, but it all seems to haev got lost in the mists of time.

Cheers, Tim.

[Simon Jones]

I'm all for 'make do and mend', but considering how cricitical having a tip-top cooling system is, I personally would spend £70 to get a new pipe which is going to last another 15 years:

http://www.bongobits.com/index.php?main ... cts_id=114

http://www.mazdabongo.com/catalog/cooli ... all-models

[hammy67]

just out of interest would there be any problems with using copper fittings as copper and aluminium react

[Timster2006]

a full pipe replacement would be nice, but just looks like one helluva long job as it is such a long & twisty pipe. Hence the alternative replacement tee-piece looks so tempted...just an evening lying on my back.

I found some nice looking stainless tee pieces online somewhere that looked good for the job (as I was also concerned about copper reactivity), just cannot remember the sizes (or even find the site now)

Any pointers?

[yorkee]

Hi,

just wondering if anybody has changed the small bore metal coolant pipes under the front seats? I bought the three of them along withe the 12 other hoses and clips from my local Mazda dealer and wondered if there are any hints or tips before I tackle the job.

Many thanks.

[phil 1]

Hi Phil again (sorry, new account, old one got messed up),
my temporary epoxy bodge worked, but now it's time to do it properly as still dripping a bit.

My question is, what are the size (internal/exernal diameter) of those coolant pipes? And what size is the straight rubber hose that is needed to connect the tee piece to the old pipe?

I thought I'd found all the bits I needed last month, but it all seems to haev got lost in the mists of time.

Cheers, Tim.

The pipes are 16mm ID I brought a length of 16mm heater hose from local motor factor that pushed over the metal pipe as far as i could so i can put 2 jubilee clips on as there is not a raised lip on it.

so far touch wood it has been fine but i do check regularly just to make sure and will be replacing it with the proper part when i find time but i dose look like it will be a nightmare to fit the new pipe

Hi,

just wondering if anybody has changed the small bore metal coolant pipes under the front seats? I bought the three of them along withe the 12 other hoses and clips from my local Mazda dealer and wondered if there are any hints or tips before I tackle the job.

Many thanks.

I had to carefully cut the old pipes to get them off the stubs making sure not to scratch the stub as it could make it leek.