pull away o.k.Also when the engine is cool the clunk is not there in drive!I have had the prop-shaft changed because of the clunking,no difference.Any views please,thanks.

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...Filled back up with Dexron III via the dipstick using a funnel with approx 5.5litres, allowed it to settle for 5 minutes, checked it was over the full mark on the dipstick before starting, then started it, let it run for about 10 minutes, ranging through the gears to get the fluid pumping around, checking the level every few minutes...
Yup that's exactly how I see it too.Steve L wrote:I'm sure this is nothing to do with the gearbox. It sounds more like a bit of wear in the rear diff. Mine does it, putting the brakes on basically prevents the power from the engine quickly taking up the slack in the diff, which is the 'clunk'.
I was under the impression that you can't get it into gear unless the footbrake IS ON. (mine will not engage unless the footbrake is on)mikeonb4c wrote:Have you tried keeping the footbrake on while you shift into D (I'm assuming we are talking about an automatic gearbox?). Mine will sometimes clunk otherwise, but this seems to stop it (why?). I'm sure I've heard this advice given before about autoboxes though can't thing where or why
Same herescanner wrote:The brake must be on to move from P to D, but not from N to D - well not on mine anyway.
Thanks scanner. Its so natural now I can't even think how it goes, but thats the explanation. And it means in effect that when you are reversing and then go to move into D you are best putting your foot on the brake to minimise the clunk factor.scanner wrote:The brake must be on to move from P to D, but not from N to D - well not on mine anyway.