Gearchange.

eckerB · Post by **eckerB** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 10:01 am

Hiya folks,I own a bongo SGL3-AFT 1996.Recently when I am stationary at traffic lights and I put the gear lever into neutral,then back into drive to pull away,the gearbox clunks into gear.The sound appears to be coming from the rear.If I put the gearshift into 2 it doesnt happen and I can
pull away o.k.Also when the engine is cool the clunk is not there in drive!I have had the prop-shaft changed because of the clunking,no difference.Any views please,thanks.

missfixit70 · Post by **missfixit70** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 10:15 am

Welcome to the forum

I'd check your ATF level & condidtion.
Make sure the engine & box is nicely warm - at least a 20 minute drive, park on the level, drivers seat up, handbrake on, wheels chocked, footbrake on, then range up & down through the gears slowly. Leave it to settle in D for 30 seconds or so, pull out the dipstick, wipe it & check the level, colour & smell, should be a reddy orange & if it smells fishy or otherwise "not right" it definitely needs changing.
Has it been changed in the last couple of years? could be time to do it anyway, make sure you drop the pan & clean out the gunk in the bottom if you do & blow through the pipework to the cooler to make sure that's circulating ok as well.
This thread may help - http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... it=atf+oil

eckerB · Post by **eckerB** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 11:28 am

Thank you for your reply Kirsty,can`t get to changing the oil etc,my wife and I are in Paignton
Devon on holiday with our tourer caravan.Will be going home on 3rd July,will get it done then if I
find a competent garage.
Thanks again.

Post by **Doone** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 12:32 pm

I hope it's nothing more serious than low or dirty fluid. That said, you don't really want to drive with the fluid level low, so you could at least check the level while you're on holiday, and then top it up if it's low.

It could save trouble and money in the long run. The dipstick for the gearbox is under the drivers seat - if it needs topping up, use dexron 111 and a funnel. This is from Kirstys link:

...Filled back up with Dexron III via the dipstick using a funnel with approx 5.5litres, allowed it to settle for 5 minutes, checked it was over the full mark on the dipstick before starting, then started it, let it run for about 10 minutes, ranging through the gears to get the fluid pumping around, checking the level every few minutes...

dandywarhol · Post by **dandywarhol** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 12:34 pm

If the engine idle speed is to high it'll clunk.

Post by **Doone** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 12:37 pm

Good point, ours idles around 800 in neutral.

mikeonb4c · Post by **mikeonb4c** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 12:55 pm

Have you tried keeping the footbrake on while you shift into D (I'm assuming we are talking about an automatic gearbox?). Mine will sometimes clunk otherwise, but this seems to stop it (why?). I'm sure I've heard this advice given before about autoboxes though can't thing where or why

Steve L · Post by **Steve L** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 1:15 pm

I'm sure this is nothing to do with the gearbox. It sounds more like a bit of wear in the rear diff. Mine does it, putting the brakes on basically prevents the power from the engine quickly taking up the slack in the diff, which is the 'clunk'.

mikeonb4c · Post by **mikeonb4c** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 1:59 pm

Steve L wrote:I'm sure this is nothing to do with the gearbox. It sounds more like a bit of wear in the rear diff. Mine does it, putting the brakes on basically prevents the power from the engine quickly taking up the slack in the diff, which is the 'clunk'.

Yup that's exactly how I see it too.

widdowson2008 · Post by **widdowson2008** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 2:25 pm

mikeonb4c wrote:Have you tried keeping the footbrake on while you shift into D (I'm assuming we are talking about an automatic gearbox?). Mine will sometimes clunk otherwise, but this seems to stop it (why?). I'm sure I've heard this advice given before about autoboxes though can't thing where or why

I was under the impression that you can't get it into gear unless the footbrake IS ON. (mine will not engage unless the footbrake is on)
Also, in the Mazda manual, it specifically states 'Depress the foot brake firmly' then engage drive. I assumed this was a safety feature to ensure that the vehicle does not inadvertently move off before the driver intends it to do so.
Anyway, mine will not engage without the footbrake being applied which caused some embarresment on my second outing - I started it up, tried to engage drive, and the lever wouldn't shift. Out came the manual - read about the footbrake, and hey presto RESULT.

scanner · Post by **scanner** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 3:40 pm

The brake must be on to move from P to D, but not from N to D - well not on mine anyway.

Post by **francophile1947** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 4:47 pm

scanner wrote:The brake must be on to move from P to D, but not from N to D - well not on mine anyway.

Same here

mikeonb4c · Post by **mikeonb4c** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 5:06 pm

scanner wrote:The brake must be on to move from P to D, but not from N to D - well not on mine anyway.

Thanks scanner. Its so natural now I can't even think how it goes, but thats the explanation. And it means in effect that when you are reversing and then go to move into D you are best putting your foot on the brake to minimise the clunk factor.

widdowson2008 · Post by **widdowson2008** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 5:46 pm

Yep
Didn't fully read the query.

eckerB · Post by **eckerB** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 6:50 pm

Thank you all for your replies.The gearbox oil level was checked before we came on holiday,but
not as you say how it should be done, by the local garage at home.They checked the level with
the engine off.The bongo drives superb if I move off in 2 then change to D! What I have done is
to e-mail doone direct(got his e-mail address from his reply) to ask if he could have a look for me
at his garage.I hope he doesn`t mind the e-mail.I am about 30 miles from him.Thank you all again.

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