Steve, That sounds like good news. The current being drawn is just about OK (its 40mA), but as Dave above says may well lead to a flat battery over some significant time - but a this stage don't get to worried by it. The fact that the charging lead was loose, has my attention ! I would suggest that you get the charging cable well attached and then take it for a good run, and then see how the S/B holds up on its own. If the problem disappears then we can assume (always dangerous
that was the cause - however Mike also has a good point and that the diodes in the alternator could also be a cause, but that will show up if the S/B again misbehaves.
Once you have the above sorted, then is the time to put the well charged L/B back in place,and then its basically the same process. Start with everything turned OFF, including the ZIG rocker switch. I would expect the current being drawn to be ZERO, if not then identifying the item drawing the current is critical, as everything is OFF,you will need to follow the wiring and see what else is connected - One thing will be the charging relay, see if you can put the meter in series with the relay (there should be a fuse in series as well, thats a good point to put the meter!) again if the current is ZERO, great if its anything more than 10mA then something is wrong - more details about the relay and how it is wired would be needed. If that is OK, then trace the wiring back to the ZIG unit and make sure that it doesn't tee off (unexpectedly) to somewhere else enroute!
Assuming that the current is very low (<10mA) then making sure that everything is switched off on the ZIG unit, put the ZIG rocker switch into the L/B position. I would expect to see some current drawn, because the ZIG charger will now be conected to the battery but as its not powered up from the electric hook up it won't be charging, again it should be quite a small current less than 20mA would be fine. If it is sigificantly greater then report back - it might be that the ZIG charger has gone faulty. OK so if we still have a low current being drawn, now is the time to start switching on each device, the currents will be up in the Amps range - but if we have got this far, my suspicion would be that you had something turned on when you thought it was off and it was that which was draining the L/B - on our vehicle we can power the fridge for about 2-4 days from the L/B without a run or a charge. If a light was left on then it would last a week or so but it will vary a lot depending on the wattage of the lamp and the capacity of the battery.
The final thing to check, whilst you still have a well charged L/B is that it is being charged ! Try plugging in the Electric Hook Up at home if you can, whilst you have the meter measuring the current from the battery - it should go -ve (assuming that the meter read +ve with a load on it or vice-versa) as the battery is fully charged I would expect only about 0.5Amp-2Amp range. Likewise with the hook up disconnected if you start the vehicle and whilst slowly increasing the revs, I would expect to see a charging current at somepoint when the relay operates again same sort of level as above. If not then again the relay is suspect (assuming that the S/B is working OK of course!). Hopefully somewhere along the above something will have shown up as the cause - if not then it might be a case of wait and see what happens - my own thought is that the charging lead to the S/B was the cause of no charging to either battery but.......
