Thanks all. I have changed the oil again, now on 10/40 semi. Still happening, so it's booked into bongo specialist garage next weds. He thinks it might be sump strainer so that's where he's going to start. I'm going away(hopefully) the following weekend and I'm thinking leaving it ill weds is ...

Right, I'm using 5-30 semi. Levels are fine. Bought a better(more expensive) filter and replaced that. Changed the sender sensor. Still happening! Grrrr! Looking like a professional job now. :-(
One thing somebody mentioned to me, does the sump have its own filter inside? Apparently a common ...

Sorry, it might help... '97 2.5td auto.
By difficult to read I just mean as you pull it out (after wiping off and putting back in) the whole stick gets oil on it from the tube and as its just been serviced the oils not very black.

Hi, my oil light came on this evening as I pulled into the drive. It flickers for a bit then if you rev the engine the light goes out. I did a full oil and filter change last month. I can't see any major leaks or drips on drive. There is oil in it. I did top it up just incase. The dip stick is ...

Thank you for all your advice. I seem to have found the issue. Whilst looking at it and thinking about what you said, I wriggled a pipe and the whole unit (both solenoids) moved. Screw A is pushing the unit back causing higher revs than it should. It would appear that either a bolt has worked loose ...

screw A is controlled via the cold start solenoids, via the large diaphragm A/ B. remove the pipe to the A end, then the B end, the revs should drop to normal once the offending solenoid is removed.
So is something in need of replacing? Just removing the pipe won't "fix" the problem, surely???

screw A is controlled via the cold start solenoids, via the large diaphragm A/ B. remove the pipe to the A end, then the B end, the revs should drop to normal once the offending solenoid is removed.
So is something in need of replacing? Just removing the pipe won't "fix" the problem, surely???

screw A is controlled via the cold start solenoids, via the large diaphragm A/ B. remove the pipe to the A end, then the B end, the revs should drop to normal once the offending solenoid is removed.
So is something in need of replacing? Just removing the pipe won't "fix" the problem, surely???

Idle (on the warm car) should be 700 - 780 r / min, adjustable nut on the switch XX .
A diaphragm increase idle speed up to 800 +/-25 under load (air conditioner, power steering, lights ...)
B diaphragm increase idle speed up to 1350 +/-150 at warming.
They are controlled by vacuum 53KPa.
On ...

Tried that. Nothing helps. It's very strange.

I have just serviced my 97 2.5td auto. Oil, oil filter, fuel filter. And now I have a problem with fast idling upon cold start. Normally it revs to about 1100 revs for a few minutes til warm and the fast idle solenoid switches off and it sits at 700. Now, the FIS pushes too much and she revs at ...

I had same problem with 3 pin sockets. Turns out they are wired to only work with my electic hook up. 3 pin electrics running on leisure battery = dead battery very quickly.

M 80NGO wrote:Also check that your coldstart idle is set correctly, if she's set over 950 rpm when she's cold she shut off her glow plugs as she thinks she's being driven

That means nothing to me?

Thanks everyone for your comments.

Hi, my 2.5 D 2wd beast has an intermittent issue. Well it has a few but this is the question for this issue...
Sometimes when I start her she coughs and splutters as if she's going to stall. And sometimes this is accompanied by a puff of white smoke from the exhaust. I'm running on 30-60% veg oil ...

Having trolled through the search pages I now just need confirmation....
I have a slight oil leak and think I've narrowed it down to the EGR. The diamond shape bit beneath the elbow join appears to have a shim (gasket) in it. It (the shim) is not flush all the way around it seems to have twisted. I ...