Whew - simple question, but not so easy answer. It depends on all sorts of things ...

If the player is operating, any current taken to charge it will (obviously) be in addition to the normal operating current, so overall it will be consuming more. :roll: But if you can charge the battery with the ...

Glad to be able to help. Hope you get it sorted out. I'd be interested to hear the outcome in due course.

Best wishes (and no smilies!)

As far as I know in the UK, the only way you get a CO2 emission figure for a vehicle is either through type approval (standard UK market cars) or though an SVA test (imports). [I think the value might also be an "agreed" figure for political purposes, and may not be directly related to the actual ...

Actually there's a good moral to this story .......

It's always easy to suspect the worst and overlook the simple solutions - though I guess clicking from a partially reset trip meter is not that easy to diagnose from scratch.

Thanks for sharing - food for thought!

Hmmm.....

Water-based will undoubedly wash out (unless you live somewhere which doesn't get as much rain as we do in the UK :) ) But, most rubbers are attacked by petroleum-based lubricants. Without being too smutty, that's why we have water-based lube to start with (hint, think KY :evil: )

Kirsty ...

I'm a great believer in LEDs!

More on this subject some other time, some other place.

Good call above on the nail. I reckon a cv joint is more a clunking than a clicking. Though I guess peoples definitions of what constitutes a clunk or clck may differ. If cv joint it will get worse if turning. Take it to a carpark and drive round on full lock each way. Could also be a big stone ...

Could be a CV joint. Is it worse when you turn Steering one way or another, whilst moving. Jack one front wheel in neutral if it's 4x4. If 2wd it won't matter about Neutral. Grab Wheel and spin forwards to simulate driving and listen for the clicking. Just something to check. Or have you got a nail ...

A gentle word of warning.

The fuse numbering in the fact sheet is not the same as the fuse numbering in the wiring diagrams. You need to be sure which version of the numbering system you are working from.

Sorry, this probably doesn't really help at all!

mikeonb4c - thanks for the praise. I try my best, but I'm still very much a Bongo beginner!

hembramacho - good luck with the fix. My Bongo's oodles better as a result of the repairs. Hope yours will be too.

Best wishes, Romney

A bit late again, I'm afraid .......

Some info here http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... 06&start=0 might be helpful. My Elecsol 100A fits in very easily (much more so than the Halfords 110A which I took out)

Does any of this help?
http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=34555&start=0

Actually, it may not. Previous post refers particularly to the permanent 12V supply to the radio (preserves the tuning memory settings, etc) while you are asking about the ignition-switched 12V which ...

My Bongo used to be quite sluggish, especially on hills on motorways. Eventually the auto box would change down a couple of gears and I'd sit there going just as slowly as before, but making a lot more noise :oops:

As posted elsewhere (http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t ...

Just to add a few pennies worth.....

hembramacho's photos clearly show something unusual. Notice the dark staining on the head next to the end of the exhaust manifold, below the oil filler - particularly noticeable in photo 2. There could be a number of causes for this, but it looks suspiciously ...

Dave,

I've had a quick look at my wiring diagram. A blue/red wire takes fused +12v into the drivers door where a switch operated by the key connects it to either a yellow/red or white/black wire (lock and unlock - or vice versa). These wires run from the door back to the central locking relay/timer ...