Debris trap os rear wheel arch!

[Flanners]

I am not so 'into' my Bongo anymore only 500miles this year, mostly school runs but no camping, no use over Winter either once the salt goes down, it's still in great condition though. Just had a bit of rust treated rear os sill/wheel arch area just got it back so washing it in the drive and felt the plastic protector (for the pipes) in the is rear wheel arch. What I did not know was it is flat on top and allows water and debris to wash up inside it and then fall down trapping the debris against the chassis/wheel arch. Thankfully on import the whole section has been undersealed, but a huge amount of crap came out. Glad I found this I am sure it has been mentioned but it has not been an area I have given much attention too and did not know it allowed shite from the wheel to gather in such a manner.

[BongoBongo123]

Thanks for info. It's a good thing to look the Bongo over throughly at end of Sept eahc year, arguably rust better tackled in August so it likely more dry.
Behind the front mudflaps are worth digging out and that little bolt has a soil trap down in your front door as well.

Same as keeping the channels and your drain hole clear or leaves/debris under the bonnet.

Ultimately rust on any old vehicle is about effort put in and checking. If you do nothing expect rust then holes, it is the way of corrosion.

If you like your van and appreciate keeping the body work good you get down on your knees and look/assess/repair.

I get the impression many buy a Bongo and just let it fall apart. And see it as a cheap van to run into the ground.

I am the opposite and try my best to keep the rust under control through constant protection of various kinds ( Kurust/Waxoyl wax/POR15/Hammerite) and so far that approach has worked extremely well. Other than 2 x 6cms patch welds (one front cross member and one drivers side near the rear sille aircon/old heater pipes area common place on the Bongo.)

The hassle of repair and cost far outweighs the effort sorting it out yourself. It is not rocket science either. Sand/wire brush/de grease, rust protection products and paint. Or smeering of the gloopy wax version of waxoyl (not the underseal paint type) over certain especially vulnerable areas such as the cross member top.

Ultimately up to the owner and how much money they have, cause welding and replacement metal is vastly more expensive than paint, anti rust products and a few hours of your time each year.

For the areas unreachable we had it Dinitrol undrsealed this year. £700.00 and probably worth every penny over 5 years or so.

I look at the cost of new cars and laugh my head off. They must be joking with those prices. Have you seen the price of even a Dacia or Chinese MG ?

I will never own a new car ever and none the worse off for it either.