Which T-Cut?

[digitalgypsy]

Hello all,

I'm going to use some T-Cut paint restorer on the Bongo but not sure which type to get. I have a 1997 silver AFT like this: https://www.carjunction.com/car_images2 ... 268340.jpg

Does anyone know which is more suitable, 'T-Cut Original' or 'T-Cut Metallic'? I don't think the silver paint is metallic but I'm not sure.

Thanks as always

Steve

[g8dhe]

The original didn't seem to have any effect what so ever on my silver coloured one, the varnish top spray seemed immune to the T-Cut all together.

[digitalgypsy]

Ah. Bugger. Thanks for the info. Would you say the silver is a metallic paint? Wondering if this will be a waste of time if no luck for you.

[WestyK]

It will almost certainly be a clear coat on top of the colour (probably metallic yes but some one better than me can confirm this) and if its anything like mine very hard too.

depends what your trying to do but I have had best results (not just on the Bongo) with the Autoglim Superesin Polish and there pain restorer (like T-Cut) great as a general polish and does hide the minor swirls and scratches a bit.
There are probably even better products than this now, Though things can get quite expensive when you start looking at polish and wax. the Detailing world is insane. Always have limited success with T-Cut on modernish cars, and yes in this field a bongo is modern , probably an old product these days.

[Bonneville]

T-cut metallic is a strange concept given that metallics are a clear over base (COB) system. The base is 1K (solvent) and can't be cut or polished as it has no strength. It's a powdery finish and dries matt to give the clear a key. Modern base-coats are water based which is actually lovely stuff to shoot but also has no strength. The idea is to set down colour only, the clear does the work of producing a shine.
Clear is 2K and can be cut but anything old needs experience and you must make sure you don't go through to the base. I use Ferecla G3 and G10 with a DAS-6 polisher. If it's really bad, I'll flat it with a wet 3000 first. Have a search for 'colour sanding' on Youtube.

[mikeonb4c]

I've sometimes wondered how well re-lacquering might work (after flatting the original finish of course). Anyone got any thoughts on that?

[Bonneville]

It does work up to a point. The trouble is that the work involved to do it correclty is not far off a respray. If the painter has to flat it once, they may as well shoot a base first and then clear it. The base does not need flatting so it's rougly the same cost.
I saw a Scirrocco at auction once that had been cleared over the existing clear without flatting it first. It was coming off in sheets.

[mikeonb4c]

It does work up to a point. The trouble is that the work involved to do it correclty is not far off a respray. If the painter has to flat it once, they may as well shoot a base first and then clear it. The base does not need flatting so it's rougly the same cost.
I saw a Scirrocco at auction once that had been cleared over the existing clear without flatting it first. It was coming off in sheets.

Very interesting post & thanks. I was thinking that not having to mask for colour, only one 'paint' etc might give a cheaper option. Clearly not (no pun intended). I put the thought forward many years ago as a possible cheap fix for white painted Bongos whose paintwork was going matte/chalky (already flatted as it were!) esp as i considered this porosity would quickly lead to pinhole rusting.

[Markas]

It will almost certainly be a clear coat on top of the colour (probably metallic yes but some one better than me can confirm this) and if its anything like mine very hard too.

depends what your trying to do but I have had best results (not just on the Bongo) with the Autoglim Superesin Polish and there pain restorer (like T-Cut) great as a general polish and does hide the minor swirls and scratches a bit.
There are probably even better products than this now, Though things can get quite expensive when you start looking at polish and wax. the Detailing world is insane. Always have limited success with T-Cut on modernish cars, and yes in this field a bongo is modern , probably an old product these days.

If the lacquer has dulled a bit try using Autoglym paint restorer then SRP. If AG paint restorer doesn't make much impact, as Bonneville has said, a light rub over with 2000 grit wet or dry paper (used wet, with some detergent in the water as lubricant) then a rubbing compound, then the AG products should work. I've used this method on a much neglected X-type Jag with good effect, another clear over base paint finish.
If you're left with swirl marks after the SRP, usually the result of using 'scratch and shine' car wash merchants, AG do an 'extra gloss protection' fluid, which works to fill the micro scratches. Wipe it over the affected panel, leave to cure for 30 mins or so, then wipe off. The results are surprising!

[Bonneville]

AG do an 'extra gloss protection' fluid

That sounds good. I do like their products and use the interior shampoo for all kinds of stuff (including the exterior) so I'll give that a whirl. On the subject of detailing, I use ACF50 (a corrosion inhibiter) to restore black plastic. Don't ask me how that works but it does.

[mikeonb4c]

AG do an 'extra gloss protection' fluid

That sounds good. I do like their products and use the interior shampoo for all kinds of stuff (including the exterior) so I'll give that a whirl. On the subject of detailing, I use ACF50 (a corrosion inhibiter) to restore black plastic. Don't ask me how that works but it does.

Great tip on the ACF50 - think I bought some to use on anti-corrosion but never did. So now it could find an alternative use. Rust? Bah! Its bling that matters

[digitalgypsy]

Thanks for all the input. Ordered T-Cut, Goo-Gone and a Toffee Wheel, will give the paintwork and decals a bash tomorrow