Oil leak from pipe connected to top of turbo?

[Dan_Will]

Hi all, spent a lot of time sorting the bongo recently ready to sell her and noticed an oil leak a few days ago, it has gotten progressively worse over the last week until eventually the oil light came on. I have found the source of the leak and it's coming from the metal pipe that goes from top of the turbo back towards engine, down and left slightly before connecting to the bottom of the engine.

Is this simply a worn crush washer of something more sinister? Is oil supposed to be in that pipe? I assume it is as it connects to the lower engine

Any help would be greatly appreciated! I've tried to upload pic of the offending pipe but says the file is too large!

[Northern Bongolow]

what year is the bongo as there are lots of diff turbos.

[Dan_Will]

It's a 1997 n reg. 2.5td 4wd aft. I'll post a vid on YouTube when I get home from work if that will make identifying the pipe easier? Thanks

[Dan_Will]

https://plus.google.com/110685261100668 ... xKMmvJbBnE

Hopefully this link works. In the pictures it's the brass coloured pipe just behind the turbo inlet. And 2nd pic you can just about see a dirty black bolt where it comes from top of turbo.

The leak is coming from the bottom where it connects to the engine.

Thanks

[teenmal]

HI Dan , if you give the area a good clean and dry ,then run the engine giving it a few revs you should see quite clearly where its leaking.it might just need a nip up or a couple of washers.

This should help if you need bits.

http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... o=.html#18

[Dan_Will]

Thanks teenmal! Exactly what I was looking for!

Sounds straight forward enough. I'll do an oil and filter change and change the washers while the oil is out.

Any tips on what to use to remove the leaked oil? the leak is in close proximity to the front prop shaft, which has kindly spun it all over the bloody place

[teenmal]

Normaly I would use White Spirit,I would advise you to repair the leak before you change the Oil & Filter,draining the oil wont make any diffrence to the operation.You could also use something like these.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw ... cat=179487

[Dan_Will]

Thanks again, I have plenty of white spirit so will give that a go. I assume in that case, there won't be much oil coming out of the pipe when I remove it? I filled the oil back up before I ran it to locate the leak as I was afraid the engine wouldn't have sufficient oil and didn't want to damage it.

I don't want to remove the pipe and have more oil pouring out. Though at this point I don't suppose it really matters given the amount that is already everywhere!

[cmm303]

You won't get torrents of oil when you remove that pipe. I don't recall even having to top up my oil after removing the turbo.
As teenmal says, after cleaning it is easier to spot an oil leak with the dirty used oil still in the system.

[Dan_Will]

Thanks for tip not to drain oil cmm303, just replaced the copper washers and run the engine and the oil was just pouring out worse than before!!

Turns out the pipe is cracked right where it joins the lower banjo - see pic

https://plus.google.com/110685261100668 ... vMcE3YFrx7

Question is how do I fix this? Is there a sealer that would do the job?

Can it be welded? It's only about 6mm diameter aluminium I think...

I can't find the part anywhere either!!

[Northern Bongolow]

14-270 on this link mate, if you click on the numbers on the drawing then look in the left margin it will give you the part number.

fill it with sand and mig or tig weld it mate.

http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html

[teenmal]

Take your old pipe to your local Hydraulic/engineering /diesel shop and ask if they can repair or make a new pipe preferably with a flex section.
Or pop along to your Mazda / Ford dealer and give them the Part number for the pipe.(take the pipe with you they might be able to match it)

PS apparently this is same pipe as fitted to the Ford Courier PE2-5L.

[Dan_Will]

Thanks for the suggestions both. I spoke with the guy that does my welding and he said it's too small and suggested a heating engineer to solder it. Spoke to gas engineer who said he couldn't but suggested hydraulic pipe place near me. Spoke with them and they said they don't touch automotive parts.

Found the part but it's not cheap and not in the country either so will take time and possibly incur import duty.

Another option I am considering is - can I use a braided brake line? I currently have a couple of fairly short SS braided lines waiting to be put on my motorbike but could easily be replaced at a far cheaper price and more conveniently.

The only thing I'm not sure of is the temp that the oil will be at and whether the braided line can withstand the temperature? Also the inlet whole in the banjo on the braided line is a smaller diameter than the original pipe so would that have an adverse affect on oil pressure?

Surely it's not this difficult to repair a small crack in a pipe!

[Northern Bongolow]

ring these guys, old family firm in the next town to me. if they can suggest anything like repair replace i will be glad to take it for you and let them copy it or similar.
shout if you need.

http://www.powerpipes.co.uk/

[Dan_Will]

Thanks for the offer northern bogolow. I've spoken to a local place who have provisionally agreed to rebuild it out of flexi pipe for about £20. He did say though that the ss braided Teflon tubing they use is identical to that on braided brake lines and can withstand upto 260°c. So would cope with the oil temp fine. But I'm still going to get it rebuilt to ensure the same internal diameter of pipe as not to restrict oil flow / increase pressure etc.

This is only provisional however so we'll see.