Cooling - just checking

[cushers]

Hi All again.

Just had ALL coolant pipes (metal and rubber) replaced along with new rad, water pump and thermostat. Left lots of paper work with garage and they said that the paper work helped and they followed the instructions for the bleed (I trust him).

Picked Freda up today and have given her a good, but tentative work out. What I found is that the temp gauge sits a little higher than it did previously (now just below 12 o'clock as opposed to 11 clock) the heater gets warm, the bottom hose on the rad gets warm and the rad fans kick in. Towards the end of my short journey home I turned at a junction (hard left). The gauge went to about 1 o'clock and then dropped very quickly.

Does this sound ok?

95 2.5 TD Freda

Graeme

[rita]

Its very hard to say exactly (after the parts mentioned have been fitted )what the gauge (if it is the standard DOCTORED gauge ) should read. Personally I would have the system rechecked and bled and if possible use the vacuum system.

[cushers]

That seems sensible. Hope it was just a "burp" as after everything had cooled down I checked the expansion tank and underneath the filler cap was empty. Fingers crossed its not in the engine / head.

Graeme

[rita]

That seems sensible. Hope it was just a "burp" as after everything had cooled down I checked the expansion tank and underneath the filler cap was empty. Fingers crossed its not in the engine / head.

Graeme

That's exactly what you wanted is a BURP, it probably means that the system was not completely cleared of Air.

[Bob]

If the coolant has dropped below the bottom of the header tank don't drive it until it has been bled agin, there will be air in the system and it will overheat.

[haydn callow]

Sounds as though they didn't bleed it fully....beware!!

[cushers]

Thank you for your replies.

Fingers crossed it was a burp then. Like i say, 10 minutes earlier (while I was engine running but stationary in the garage forecourt doing the tires) the bottom hose got hot as did the bottom of the new rad and heaters.

Unfortunately I am parked up 1/4 of a mile from where I can tinker. Would a 3 min drive be a massive risk?

G

[Bob]

Its really difficult for someone else to say this short drive would be OK just incase something goes wrong and they get blamed.

Could someone give you a tow for that short distance?

All wheels on the ground if its 4WD and max 20mph if auto.

Good luck.

[mikeonb4c]

I find it really hard to believe a 3 minute drive could do Amy harm but like Bob I'd be nervous of guaranteeing it. Any more experienced techies able to advise on here?

[Northern Bongolow]

or you could spin that round mike, why drive it and risk damage when its an easy job to tow it, or do a basic bleed and fill without the engine running.

[mikeonb4c]

or you could spin that round mike, why drive it and risk damage when its an easy job to tow it, or do a basic bleed and fill without the engine running.

True, but not an easy job if like me you don't have a handy friend with car and tow rope. My question really is whether 3 minutes of running an engine from cold could ever come close to causing a head cracking hot spot. Maybe it could, but it seems unlikely to me. And towing a 4wd automatic carries its own risk if not done right?

[roosmith]

I'm confused. I know we all have this phobia about the cooling systems in our Bongo's however the engine can't overheat in 3 minutes. In 3 minutes, my hot running Bongo probably wouldn't have reached 35. That is a way off the 100+ which might damage a head.

[rita]

Driving the vehicle for 3 minutes providing that the engine has coolant and you are not driving up Ben Nevis should not present a problem.

The BURP that occurred was probably the last stage of the bleeding process and I would not be surprise if every thing is OK now.

Good Luck.

[cushers]

You guys are great. At least I know now that the conversations that I have with myself are sane! Obviously any decisions I make are down to me and I appreciate the warnings. That's what makes this forum great, open, honest opinion.

Will research the cold bleed more fully. Can't believe I missed it.

Graeme

[cushers]

Just an update.

Before the bleed I removed the de-gassing tank (simple job) and gave it a right old clean. Just washing through first and then shaking vigorously. Glad all that crust isn't sitting in the system now and I can see the fluid level in the partition under the pressure cap. While it was out I fitted the Haydn LCA sensor. I bought the "piggy simples" version and had the LCA fitted in no time. Highly recommend Jo and Haydn.

Plumbed everything back together and did a bleed as per videos and advice.

Things seem good. During the bleed I got a "burp" which I assume is the thermostat opening (bottom rad hoses got v hot). After that there just seemed to be very fine "cavitation" bubbles. I guess these come from the water pump and lack of system pressure while bleeding. . Didn't experience any gassing in to the system while doing higher revs.

A question though?
Will higher revs force water up and out of the degassing tank while the cap is off (hope that's the reason)? Did it all on my own and held the funnel in place when necessary by attaching it to the passenger door seatbelt tang using some coat hanger (I was able to remove it quickly when needed)

Thanks for all the help and advice
Graeme