Bongo Fury

Hi My heater fan only works on no.4 and reading through posts it sounds like the heater resistor needs replacing. Could anyone tell me where this is located as I have looked through fact sheets and cant find it.

thanks

Cas x

Its where the two meter probes Red & Black are stuck in;

remove the screws to get it out.

thank you G8dhe

best to remove fan as well and strip clean and oil it or it will blow again

Hi there,
I managed to repair my fan motor resistor pack at home this weekend, with replacement components from eBay and a soldering iron. Total cost less than a tenner!
Dismantle resistor pack, de-solder three legged transitor, google part number, buy on eBay, re solder, assemble and test.
Very pleased
I can send photos if necessary

Worth noting there are two types of units fitted. Resistor pack is fitted to vehicles with manual rotary / slider controls, while transistor pack is fitted with digital climate controls with push buttons and green display.

The resistor pack has built in fuses in the form of solder joints that pop open when the current gets too high and melts the solder. These are usually repairable (for free) by using a suitable soldering iron and heavy duty solder. The transistor pack requires a new component inside as the previous post mentions.

This shows where the resistor pack tends to fail:



This is what causes it: the bottom fan bearing get full of water and the bearing goes rusty:

Chaosengineering wrote: Sun Apr 26, 2015 7:51 pm Hi there,
I managed to repair my fan motor resistor pack at home this weekend, with replacement components from eBay and a soldering iron. Total cost less than a tenner!
Dismantle resistor pack, de-solder three legged transitor, google part number, buy on eBay, re solder, assemble and test.
Very pleased
I can send photos if necessary

I know it's a bit of a necropost, but any chance of those photos? I've just desoldered my transistor and I think I've unseated a copper bridge by accident, but I'm not 100% of it's purpose so now I'm a little concerned!

Fairly certain that the "hoop" is a thermal fuse to help protect the transistor/module if there is an excessive current being draw, you can resolder the hoop down, try to use the existing solder to ensure the same temperature characteristics.