Driver's door locking mechanism and wiring problem

[rjec]

Dear all,

I have recently bought a 2002 2.0L petrol auto City Runner. The remote central locking and manual locking worked from the start except for the manual locking of the driver's door (it wouldn't work with the key).

It then developed a problem in that the remote central locking intermittently wouldn't work for the driver's door (works for the other doors). My garage suggested that the problem lies with the door deadlock/catch part of the locking system and that I source a new one, which I did from AVA Leisure (second hand parts).

This door lock part came with a section of wiring which runs from inside the part - this is made up of three wires with a plug at the end. However, my original door lock part has a similar length of wiring running from it which consists of five wires ending in a different type of plug. Both the old and new door lock sections appear to be the same.

AVA Leisure has been unable to source a lock with the five wires and has suggested I try and use my existing wiring (5 wires) with my new lock part.

After all that, this is my question!!! What is the difference between the five wiring hook up to the door lock as opposed to the three wires? Is this something that I can do without any problems or am I likely to lose some electrical benefits that the five wires give? I couldn't find any suitable wiring diagrams for 2002 models. I suppose the problem will occur if the internal workings of the door lock parts are in fact different - I'm hoping that I can just interchange them without any issues.

I hope this all makes sense and any help and advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you for reading!

[Northern Bongolow]

may apply to 2002, does this help any.

http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html

[rjec]

Thank you NB but the door lock mech. part I am talking about isn't the section the key goes into (as shown on your Lush diagram) but the rectangular part (approx. 5" x 3") which sits under the key lock towards the bottom of the door.

[Northern Bongolow]

sounds like you mean the central locking actuator, can you see one here.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=centr ... QsAQ&dpr=1

[Simon Jones]

The original factory fit central locking works via remote fob and by putting the key in the drivers door lock. Many aftermarket kits are only remote central locking so only have an actuator (motor) in the drivers door rather than the swicth required to detect the key being used to lock/unlock the door.

So, if it has never worked from the key, perhaps it's just remote central locking you have? What sort of remote fob do you have? This is what Mazda typically supplied with models round about 2002:



If you can provide more info or some pictures of what you've got, it may help with the diagnosis.

[rjec]

Thank you for your time so far. I have some pictures of the part I am talking about - and am just trying to work out how to upload them. The fob you show is the same but the part I mean has a few metal arms coming from it that connect to the locking pop-up button, key unit etc. It seems to be the focal point of the locking mechanism in the door. Sorry about my poor explanations!

[Simon Jones]

Info on uploading photos: http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... =42&t=9285

If you have the same fob as in the picture then that means you have the proper factory fitted central locking with remote fob which is made by Naldec. Most Bongos tend to have aftermarket systems which would make sourcing spares more tricky.

Sounds like simplest option (without messing around with wiring) is to track down the same type of actuator with 5 wires. There are quite a few late models being broken for spares on eBay so won't be too tricky to find one. I may know where this is one if you get stuck.

[rjec]

If you paste this into your browser it will give an idea of the part - you can see the metal arms and wiring that comes from it....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mazda-Bongo-1 ... 43c0436dae

[Simon Jones]

Try this chap (Steve) as he has some late models in for breaking and may have the five wire version. Have a look at the circuit diagram for the 2002 model and see if it shows 3 or 5 wires: http://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/view ... =3&t=36657

Many problems with electric windows have been traced to broken wires where they pass from the door to the hinge area so that is another thing to look at. Ideally, you need a multimeter and some spare time to check out the continuity from the lock module thru to the rest of the vehicle.

[rjec]

Thank you Simon. Do you have any contact detail for Steve please?
I haven't found the wiring diagram for a 2002 model - on the thread it appears the post 1999 models are still being worked on.
I don't think it is a broken wiring problem that I have (I hope!). It appears to be more of a mechanical problem with the actuator.
Thank you.

[Simon Jones]

Oops forgot the link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mazda-Bongo-b ... 2348ce720b

I've got the wiring diagram CD so will have a look over the weekend but I thought the online version was up to date now (I can't check from my iPad as the site uses Flash Player).

[g8dhe]

No the 1999+ is still being worked on they changed the size of the sheets and layout so its a start from scratch again for that manual rather than update the existing sheets! Not sure it covers the 2002 anyway to be honest, I think that's yet another manual.

[rjec]

Thank you all very much for the advice so far.
If anything is found on wiring diagrams then please let me know.
I will email Steve and hopefully he may have the part - and hope that AVA Leisure take the other part back!
Cheers.

[rjec]

Dear all,
I'm back with this one!
Unfortunately Steve didn't have any driver's door lock actuators for my 2002 model.
Does anyone have any other idea where I may find someone who has one / is breaking c. 2002 models? If not, another option is going to a main Mazda or Ford dealer.
If not, I'm back to my original question of what would happen if I fit my replacement actuator (because that is where the problem appears to lie) but attempt to use the current wiring (that is already in my door - 5 wires) in place of the wiring (3 wires) attached to my replacement actuator? I hope that makes sense!
With no wiring diagram it is difficult to know what I may potentially lose in operations, if the replacement actuator is only compatible with the 3 wires it currently has, as opposed to the 5 wires I may try and connect to it.
Any advice will be gratefully received.
Thank you.

[Simon Jones]

I've managed to find the 2002 wiring diagram and uploaded it to Dropbox. I haven't been able to give it a detailed look to see if it's 3 or 5 wires, but I'll send you a PM with the Dropbox link (when I can figure it out).

Other then that, if you're anywhere near me, we can probably try swapping them over to isolate the fault.