Electricery fuse 1

[the1andonly]

From previous posts

Fuse 1
Yes this fuse covers a whole load of circuits;
Engine Computer Unit (Hence flashing coil lamp)
AFT
Air Con.
Radio/Audio/Nav systems
Interior lighting
Power door locks
Sound Warning System
They are all circuits where the power is applied all the time even when the Ignition switch is OFF, and hence very easy to blow when working on the vehicle!

Now I want to only move over the Interior lighting and and cig lighter to the LB and leave the others to SB. where the best place to separate out.
(radio already powered by a separate line and fuse on LB)

[g8dhe]

There isn't a best place - Move the lot, the junction is buried inside the loom!
Simplest way is to remove the fuse itself, and then using a trimmed connector plug it into the LOWER fuse connector so that you pick up the loads, the upper connector is the supply on all the fuses. It also has the advantage that it is very easy to put back to normal! Trying to isolate the rear of the fuses is a VERY fiddly job!!!

[Simon Jones]

If you've got an alarm that uses the volt drop caused by the interior lights, then you may have problems when running from the LB.

[the1andonly]

Gents
thanks for your input, much appreciated.
it is because of all the odds and sods attached that i wanted to exclude the LB from the important bits.

Looks like i'll have to create a "book" of what to do when problems happen (specific to my modifications) (or down load the entire forum to the glovebox)

Currently have used the micro spade and separate LB fusebox to run the blinds.

so fuse 8 re assign for cig sockets (only really for front to run telly, 4 x 30A sockets in back)
or is there some other sting in the tail on fuse 8 and would be better to just isolate and run a new connection to the front socket.

[g8dhe]

There is no great problem with swapping all the circuits out on the top left fuse to the L/B, its the most common one along with the top right fuse for the Radio. The other two common ones are the fuses for the blinds the two 15 Amp ones also top row to the right.

[the1andonly]

just read a post that even the central locking is on fuse 1.

So I'll narrow down my target s for the LB
fuse 1 stays as is on SB
front cig will run separate line from LB fuse box and use existing power for something else.
front internal light i would still like to run from LB or run a new line to one side (2x 24 leds)
now in realms of ripping roof cover and door pillers, how to?

[jaylee]

just read a post that even the central locking is on fuse 1.

So I'll narrow down my target s for the LB
fuse 1 stays as is on SB
front cig will run separate line from LB fuse box and use existing power for something else.
front internal light i would still like to run from LB or run a new line to one side (2x 24 leds)
now in realms of ripping roof cover and door pillers, how to?

Hi, you could try looking for the rear light loom in the passenger side A pillar & power it from there with the LB? This might be easier than searching for & switching the feed under the dash.
There is a grommet through the bulkhead just behind the header tank on that side too!

I'm not entirely sure about the front cab light. Possibly the live feed is in the same location?

I've only ever dealt with the negative ground with regards to alarm fitting and a little mod in the lamp it's self so it comes on when unlocking the van, along with an led over the key barrel to illuminate on entry.

Hope this helps?

[the1andonly]

Jaylee
just ran a separate feed from LB to cab light via the drivers door post.
( I have put a six way fuse box behind the fusebox /side panel feed from the LB to the fuse 6,7,8 positions.)
a lot easier than expected.
Remove :
cab light (disconnect wire connector)
sunvisor (2 screws)
sunvisor clip (1 screw and press fit plug)
initialy forgot handle used to get in
rubber strip around door
now we can remove the door pillar cover by sliding up
the roof cover can be eased down to facilitate feeding wire in.
as well as feed to cab light could be a water pipe.
The wiring up and the other interior lights can wait another day.
this was on a 97 diesel.

[the1andonly]

Just done the wiring
on removing the light fitting and attacking wiring with a Dmm 3 wire 12v feed, 12v open door, earth.
It became obvious that mine is not wired as standard with no midddle lamp and a splice on the blue wire.
so the choice I made left and middle (24 led ) on LB (left hand switch only) the rhs 24 led on rhs switch and door switch using exiting wiring on SB. So enough light on LB and normal services if LB removed/ unable and No ECU issues with LB or Alarm door issues not on SB (kills 2 birds with one stone?)