Bongo Fury

I'm looking at fitting an alarm and immobiliser I've had quotes around £200 for fitted system but I thought I'd buy one for around £50 and fit it myself. I'm not really looking for a cat 1 alarm just ultrasonics and immobiliser. I saw this Toad alarm and thought it would be good value.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toad-Alarm-A5 ... 0700504990

Has anyone had any experience of fitting one , reading the manual it seems fairly straightforward as long as I can identify the wiring on the bongo, any advice would be welcome

I've now received the Toad alarm,my question is in relation to the immobiliser circuit, it says to use the starter circuit. It says to cut the starter circuit wire and wire in the two black wires so when the alarm is armed the circuit is open and when unarmed it's closed. (Loop) Presumably you could do the same by cutting into the fuel pump circuit. Does anyone know which colour wire to cut into and the best location to make the connections? It will save me a lot of work testing Many thanks !

sorry I've just found one of Ian's fact sheets about fuel cut off switch which will save me a lot of time.

Hi

The problem with fitting alarms off the shelf is numerous but to mention a few:

Any alarm the average punter can buy off a shelf and fit can be defeated by the average spiv in around 3 minutes

If the person fitting is has no idea regarding auto electrics then apart from the usual like blowing fuses, chopping wires and ciruits needlessly, there is always the potential for a fire if you get is wrong

My advice is to do what I did, go to a reputable supplier, pay £240 and get one fitted free with a certificate that will go some way to give reasurance and knock a few quid off your insurance and sleep easy.

Remember if you fit it and cock up causing a fire you may find your not insured all of a sudden?

Is it all worth it

Fitting an immobiliser is likely to differ depending on whether you have a diesel or petrol engine. Petrol vehicles have electric fuel pump & ignition systems which can be interrupted, whereas the diesel only really has the fuel cut off solenoid. Alternatively, fit it inline with the power to the starter motor solenoid, but that would not prevent a manual vehicle being bump started.

Thanks For the advice guys, just for your info I'm pretty much ok with both low voltage and mains electrical wiring, being an electrician and AV electronics engineer, I guess I was just being lazy in asking for the best circuit. I've just fitted the willinton split charging kit, works a treat by the way and fitted a new head unit and repaired both door looms.

elbee wrote:Thanks For the advice guys, just for your info I'm pretty much ok with both low voltage and mains electrical wiring, being an electrician and AV electronics engineer, I guess I was just being lazy in asking for the best circuit. I've just fitted the willinton split charging kit, works a treat by the way and fitted a new head unit and repaired both door looms.

sounds cool but I was generalising with my comments as not everyone reading this will be a competent. When it comes to something really technical I tend to leave it to the experts. That way if it goes t*ts up then I have a comeback.


Happy wiring

I agree If unsure best leave it to the experts

Fitted the toad alarm today, pretty straightforward really, I used two immobiliser circuits fuel and starter plus ultrasonics. Fitted an actuator so it now works the central locking and sets the alarm from key fob. Well worth the money and saved around £200 on the fitting cost. Next project is a flip down TV and kitchen conversion once I save up a few more £'s.

Hi elbee usefull info ...cheers

Im in a similar boat with alarm and locks
ref stereo im looking at the erisin models at the mo...

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Have you seen these before
http://www.flickr.com/photos/johnbullas ... 919556002/

I would like an intergrated fob and found this on google images.
I would prefer a flip key fob. Has anyone tried going the Rx8 key route
I grabbed a couple of blanks here

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-keys-pair-U ... 3f2ae7ad72


My locking is playing up. It opens and flashes indicators but wont lock.
Fob battery OK. Fuse No.4 OK. Drivers door wiring looks OK.
I havent got the drivers card off yet but this is what is have learned from here

Drivers door controlls all. programable unit should be under passenger door card.
Wiggle drivers loom... no luck.

I dont mind trying to fit a new kit. I would prefer a flip fob.

Any help appreciated

Simon Jones wrote:Fitting an immobiliser is likely to differ depending on whether you have a diesel or petrol engine. Petrol vehicles have electric fuel pump & ignition systems which can be interrupted, whereas the diesel only really has the fuel cut off solenoid. Alternatively, fit it inline with the power to the starter motor solenoid, but that would not prevent a manual vehicle being bump started.

Depends on the installer! if they know bongo's there are several methods to immobilise the vehicle other that the fuel cut off solenoid. As mentioned in a previous post, a self fitted alarm is usually much easier to bypass than a professionally fitted unit!

You can usually get a non thatcham unit fitted more cheaply than a rated unit, as the cost of the unit is lower! Or talk to a fitter and supply the unit yourself and pay for fitting only

Nath

I guess you are involved in auto electrics & if so, have you got any recommendations for Cat 1 alarms with options such as paging, CL interfaces etc? I've heard that Sigma/Scorpion/Toad are quite well regarded in the trade.

Most alarm systems can be configured to control the cl in a bongo, tho as many have discovered its best to install a 3rd party control actuator,tho if you have factory fitted remote locking you can just take control of the motor in the drivers door. All 3 makes you mention have good reputation and there isnt much between any of the cat 1 systems, so it comes down to owner/installer preference, some have multi button controllers which you can use to control other functions, the pager systems can be added to the system as they all have a control/alarm line that will trigger/be triggered by the alarm, tho if you want an intelligent pager system that informs you of vehicle status your better off sticking to 1 brand. Sigma did drop out of the market for a few years and lots of people were left without support/spares! my personal preference would be toad or cobra, very little between the 2

Nath

Cheers thanks for the info. There's a mate of mine with a nice VW T2/3 Westfalia camper and he's wanting to upgrade his current Clifford system, so I'll mention those two brands to him. Mind you, he seems to be spending all his spare money fixing the turbo diesel engine that the previous owner tinkered with

Problems I've encountered with cliffords in the past is the level of maintenance, being an American company they tried to put too much into the alarm and it over complicates it and makes the unit too 'fragile', in that when they work they're good units and if you have a basic unit they're as good as the others, but whereas most manufacturers went modular, pager/glass break/shock sensor etc, Clifford incorporated it all in one and made them a pain which required adjusting every month or so, but the boy racers loved the remote start etc and i have to admit to having it fitted to more than one car and grinning like an idiot as you walk across a garage forecourt and fire the car the up! but looking back it was a bit sad lol. On that note remote start also plays havoc with your insurance (assuming you tell them lol)

NathM