Central locking problem

[stuc]

Hi I have been fitting central locking kit(cheap off ebay), fitted controller no problems which works both n/s doors and tailgate but when adding the solenoid to the drivers door it works for a bit then seems to get hot and stop working. I have tried 2 new units( from Maplins) and knacked them both so at a bit of a loss. Not sure if I damage them by trying the locking works too many times at once. It works perfectly so many times then gets weaker and stops. I have took the original switch wire out of the equation and the new solenoid works from the socket that the original switch plugged into. Advice needed as I'm sick of taking the door casing off with all that black s###.

[longhaul8]

I fitted one of these kits inside the drivers door only used 1 actuator conected to the drivers door lock and that then works the locks on all the doors

Steve

[stuc]

Thats what I have done just fitted 1 actuator to the drivers door as all other doors have them fitted already. But it is this actuator that is causing problems. If you do not fit this there is nothing to pull the door locking rod down as in the other doors.

[jaylee]

OK, these solenoid units should only take a brief less than half second pulse? from the controller or they burn out quick...
Is the central locking remote receiver box set up (4 seconds or even longer) for the pneumatic locking mechanism found (i think) on the German cars?
If so? This could be burning out the solenoid??

Take a volt meter to the open or close wire to the solenoid, press the remote & find out how long you get a voltage from that wire for... If the puls lasts longer than a quick blip, this could be your problem...??

[jaylee]

the new solenoid works from the socket that the original switch plugged into.

Just read this... If you are referring to the drivers door key switch that has a consistent 12v? running to it...??
The rest of the doors & boot solenoids take a brief short pulse from the relay controller under the glove box controlled by the drivers door key lock switch.. You can check this by testing the lock/unlock static contacts on the sliding door pillar...

Don't test the after-market locking solenoids (or even the factory Bongo ones) by putting a prolonged 12v to em!!

[321Away]

the factory wiring switches 0-12v but its a constant supply so eventually as jaylee said it would burn the motor out. Fix the motor in the door to directly PULL the rod,leave the rest of the vehicle locking wiring alone

Julian

[stuc]

the factory wiring switches 0-12v but its a constant supply so eventually as jaylee said it would burn the motor out. Fix the motor in the door to directly PULL the rod,leave the rest of the vehicle locking wiring alone

Julian

All good stuff, I have attached the solenoid directly to the rod(via another rod joined to it) and it pulls it fine, with no resistance.
Just to clarify, where should I take the feed for the solenoid which has 2 wires.
Currently it is connected to the original door switch plug which has 3 wires, -ve and 2 wires which switch live feeds as the lock is activated. So the solenoid 2 wires are connected to the live which switches when open or shut, and the lock side of the plug is disconnected. If I connect it the lot stops working.
Might help if I pull the door casing off and take some pics.

[jaylee]

Basically, you don't touch anything to do with the factory fitted manual door CL system, apart from attaching the rod from the after-market solenoid to the rod in the drivers door which will lock/unlock remotely...

Hold on..!
Do you have a receiver control box fitted to run this solenoid? Or are you attempting to use a Mazda factory fitted incorporated remote unit??

[stuc]

I am using an aftermarket ebay special which has constant + and -ve connections and taps into the two wires to send the signal to the other 3 doors. Maybe this is the confusion?

[jaylee]

Good, i was hoping you had an after market receiver... The "eBay special" should only control the solenoid in the drivers door running the rod connected to the rod on the Mazda door lock... You don't need to touch any of the factory electrical gubbins regarding the manual CL.

[stuc]

Good, i was hoping you had an after market receiver... The "eBay special" should only control the solenoid in the drivers door running the rod connected to the rod on the Mazda door lock... You don't need to touch any of the factory electrical gubbins regarding the manual CL.

By activating the one new solenoid will that then activate the switch to send the signal to the other doors, even though the actual door lock is not being turned?

[jaylee]

Yep!

When the new solenoid drives the rod.. It does the same job as if you were using the key in the drivers door to unlock/lock, which tells the other doors & boot/tailgate to unlock/lock too... Same if you push down or pull up the locking pin on the drivers door...!

[stuc]

why didnt i think of that. It seems obvious now but still not sure if that will work with the unit Ive got. Will take some pics of the instructions when I get a minute and come back for more advice.

[stuc]

Central locking now finished and working but I still had to leave the original door switch plug unplugged for it to work. When that is plugged in it just stops working. I think my other attempts burnt out the solenoids cos i was testing it too quick and overheating them as the power stays live for a few seconds after each push of the button. Thanks for all advice.