Ignition loom for alarm and immobiliser

[anucatone]

Hi all,

I'm trying to fit an immobiliser and alarm and it's turning into a bit of a saga. I've cut open the ignition loom plastic casing to find several wires whose colours bear no relation to what i was expecting to find according to this summary http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/ala ... /1379.html

From what I can make out I need a starter wire, an ignition live that stays live while turning the engine, and a permanent live.

The wires in the loom are as folows: 2 x red/black, 1 x blue, 1 x blue/white, 1 red, 1 yellow. I haven't tested all of them yet, but the two red/black ones appear to be permanently live (I don't know how they differentiate from one another).

It's a 1995 diesel bongo.

Bloody knuckles already and I haven't even started on the remote locking, driver's door solenoid, siren and motion sensor.

Think it would be less hassle to simply remove all four wheels every night.

Matt

[mikeWalsall]

I have been having a lot of trouble searching / posting on the Forum today ..

When things are sorted try 'Alarm' in Search there have been some good relevant posts very recently ..

[g8dhe]

If your able to read Wiring diagrams then the Bongo Manuals for 1995-97 & 97-99 are online see here http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... =3&t=36657
If you look at the Ignition switch then ST is the Starter position, IG1 is +12 volts during starting, IG2 is +12volts accept during Starting, its best to pickup these circuits AFTER a fuse follow the wiring down to one of the Fuses and choose the lowest rated one, likewise for the +12 volt permanent its best picked up from the Fuse panel after a fuse like the 10 Amp Engine fuse. Colour codes are on the button at the bottom.
depending if you have no SRS or next page if you have SRS.

[jaylee]

Hi Matt,

Here's a couple of links that may put you in the right direction...? http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... ion+wiring
http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... ion+wiring

It may save me digging deep into my set up... Like i told you, my immobilizer is pretty well hidden!

[anucatone]

Well judging from my extensive search of the forum it looks like the starter wire is yellow. And that's about it.

Also,the forum tells me acc live is black/red, but on my ignition loom the two black/red wires are constant 12V, no matter whether the key is turned or not.

[jaylee]

My memory is a little hazy on the wire colour... But that does seem about right.!

I seem to remember deliberating before committing myself to the cut at the time..

Just cut it.. If the van don't start then you know you got the right one...

[anucatone]

OK so assuming yellow is the starter, how do I identify the ignition live wire with a circuit tester? I have to connect the immobiliser to this. Should the ignition live be live during ignition, and after ignition, or just during? Should it be dead when the ignition is turned off?

The two red and blck wires which I suspected were ignition live appear to be permanent lives.

Knew I shouldn't have started this. Only bloody mindedness keeping me going!

[g8dhe]

I think you may be confusing your self with between;
Red with a Black stripe which is the Acc circuit (+12v switched) and the
Black with a Red stripe which is the +12 volt permanent.
Look carefully at the wiring diagram and the feed to the Ignition switch from the 60 Amp IG fuse is Black with Red stripe, after the Ignition switch the Acc feed is Red with Black stripe - HOWEVER do not use these wires unless you intend to add your own fuse at the tapping point - the wires to the unit will not be rated at 60 Amps! The same goes for any other power connections as well, choose a point that has been fused suitable for the wiring involved or add your own in-line fuses at the point you pick up the power.

[anucatone]

The instructions say nothing about adding fuses, nor do they suggest where I pick up any of the Bongo wires.

I'm not an auto-electrician, can't read wiring diagrams, just made the mistake of buying a car alarm that said "easy install" on the description. So I'm going to give up before i waste any more time that I don't have, or worse do some irreparable damage. If anybody wants a £20 ebay remote locking and alarm system, with a door solenoid thrown in for free then i'll send it for the price of the postage.

Many thanks to all -- especially Jaylee and Chris-- who have taken the time to help out thus far.

Matt

[jaylee]

If you can get some time free to haul along the M4, i'll install it for you..! I feel i know this system quite well from the eBay site & the instructions you sent me.. I wanna meet this device in person...!

[anucatone]

You're a gent, Jamie but I'll not be out your way for some time.

I have composed myself a little and decided it's only the immobiliser giving me grief, but I can still install the alarm.

Is the wire to fuse 1 on the interior fusebox, referred to as "Cabin" on the fact sheet, a permanent live, so a good power source for the alarm module and siren?

Matt

[jaylee]

That's the spirit Matt..!!

I dare say you should be able to tap into a constant live feed to power the alarm behind the fuse box.. The siren would be best placed in the other side of the bulkhead under the bonnet so as to create the most noise?? It's just the pink wire for the siren run to this..

[anucatone]

my circuit tester is a simple light up one, so it doesn't tell me voltage. Can I assume that if I jab a wire at the back of the fusebox and i get a light with all doors closed, ignition off, radio off, etc then I can assume that is a 12v constant?

Or preferably can someone just say "it"s such and such coloured wire into fuse no. x" and save me some time...!

[g8dhe]

For constant +12 volts pick up the Blue with Red stripe wire coming off the lower fuse connection of this fuse;

Do the instructions indicate how much current is being drawn by the unit ?

[anucatone]

Thanks Geoff,

No instructions on current, but for what it's worth the constant live wire on the alarm module I'm looking to connect here has a 15A fuse in the middle of it....

There are also 7.5A fuses and diodes on the connectors to the indicators, and a 10A fuse on the remote locking wire to the door solenoid (the remoe lokcing is a job I'm saving until warmer weather)>