Fitting Eberspacher

[briwy]

Just getting round to fitting the Eberspacher on our 01 Aero diesel.

Sorting out the heater isn't a problem as I've done one before but the space that the heater normally occupies is taken up by all this stuff.



OK, so the bits on the left are for the winter valve on the exhaust, not needed so they've all gone which leaves the stuff on the right which obviously controls the turbo wastegate as the pipe from the wastegate actuator leads down here. (the one on the left with the white dot)



All this stuff can be taken off the brackets and relocated if necessary making sure it's away from the exhaust and the Eberspacher.



What I really need to know is, is all this definitely required to control the turbo properly? I have taken the wastegate feed pipe and connected it directly to the vacuum pipe and the engine starts/runs OK.



What I don't know is , will the ECU throw a wobbler without all this gubbins attached and will it effect performance/mpg? What does the gubbins actually do given that the engine runs OK without it?
I'm reluctant to take it out for a run in case it damages something.

On our last (earlier 95) Bongo the wastegate pipe disappeared down the side of the engine. I assume it was connected directly to the vacuum pipe. Lush diagrams don't show where the pipe is connected to.



Incidentally, has anyone taken this thing off? It's some sort of water heater for the EGR by the looks of it. Given that I've blanked off the EGR it not doing anything so I want to get rid to make access to the turbo/exhaust better.
Problem is that the bleed tube comes from it



whereas on a "normal" Bongo it comes from the head. Anyone know where I could get the T piece that is one the head as on ours there is only one hose leading down to the turbo.




Thanks for any help/info.

[Northern Bongolow]

from what i can see brian the cold start switch on the winterpack activates the valve in the exhaust when on tick over/warm up. but when the throttle is pressed-- ie you drive off early, before full warm up, the turbo pressure cancels the operation and turns it off.
the water heater thing is just that, and aids warm up times,to get the egr operating earlier.
to avoid fitting the 3 outlet part just fit a t-piece in the turbo feed pipe, this then gives the bleed pipe stub, done this to a couple, bleeds well with the minimum of hassle.

[briwy]

Thanks Ady, thats what I thought. The winter valve stuff is all off now.
Looking at the Lush diagram of the vacuum setup it looks like the big round thing is vacuum reservoir and there is a solenoid operated valve which appears to dump the vacuum out through an air filter. Not sure though what causes these solenoids to operate so I'm a bit wary of just dumping it all even though as I said it seem to run tickover and rev up OK without it.

[Northern Bongolow]

they are operated i think as follows, both via the ecu, one is temp operated,one is prob pump position/rev operated..
dump em both, but block the vac pipes.
im on a similar mission brian, to understand the egr switching and temps etc. but not the warm up switch as i use mine everyday to aid warm up and save fuel.

[briwy]

Ady, can you confirm that the wastegate actuater pipe goes straight to the vac pump if I dump these bits? I'm assuming that it does otherwise it wouldn't operate at all.

[briwy]

Finally got it fitted after a lot of faffing around resiting the turbo control gubbins. It seems the late turbos have variable vanes which need all this stuff to make it work so it had to stay.
Wasn't helped either by the water feed pipe to the underfloor tank which also had to be rerouted.
So the space is now pretty full.



The positive feed wire threads through the existing grommet into the doorwell and then up behind the dash and through the main loom grommet into the under bonnet space direct to the leisure battery via a 20A fuse.





Tip here for anyone wanting to get wires through the grommets. Make a small hole with a screwdriver or similar and then push a piece of small bore pipe through the hole. The wires can then be easily pushed through the pipe which is then pulled out of the grommet and off the wire.

Next problem was how to get the loom to the controls out. Decided to bring it our via the rear engine access plate rather then make new holes. Undid the plate and put a 12mm rod between it and the floor. Bolted back down and then walloped the plate until it formed a channel for the loom. Sealed the gap with silicon and bolted the plate back in place.



Then just had to thread the loom round the back of the conversion and up to the controls.



Bunged a load of copper grease round all the connections to seal them and fired it up. All working a treat and seem to get a hotter than the one in the previous Bongo.

All set for cold weather now.

[dandywarhol]

Great job - they really are the dog's aren't they?