I had a go and got it sorted in the end thanks to a bit of perseverance.
I removed the engine shield and accessed the bolts from the underside using a couple of extensions on a ratchet. Mine is a 4wd and I did both bolts by feeding the extension bar through the gap to the passenger side of the drive shaft. I didn't use ramps, just crawled underneath, it was a little tight!
The picture below shows what it looks like before you do anything, for those who don't know this is under the passenger seat. I have highlighted the bolt that you remove to enable the dipstick tube to be moved out of the way. You also need to remove the large pipe that goes to the turbo:
Once all this is out of the way, you can see the two bolts which I removed from underneath:
It was then easy enough to remove the thermostat and replace it with the new (genuine) one.
I flushed the coolant, which all came out pleasingly clear and have replaced with Car Plan Premium Red. I have started to bleed but ran out of time and didn't really have enough hands - I'll finish this next weekend (the vehicle won't be driven until after this is complete).
I realise that some of the above pics duplicate those on the links above, but had already done them before I revisited this thread and didn't want to waste them!