COOLANT TYPE
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- haydn callow
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COOLANT TYPE
Can anyone tell me for sure ...What type of coolant is most likely to be in a Bongo when it arrives at the docks in u.k.??
What did Mazda put in when they were new and did they ever change types??
Would it be OAT or Glycol ??
What did Mazda put in when they were new and did they ever change types??
Would it be OAT or Glycol ??
- mikexgough
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Re: COOLANT TYPE
Th script says.....
"Prior to the 2005 model year, Mazdas were equipped with a first generation P-OAT (Phosphated Organic Acid Technology) coolant develped and manufactured by CCI, the leading Japanese coolant company. P-OAT coolants rely on a combination of phosphates and organic acids to prevent corrosion, other major Japanese automakers, Honda, Nissan and Toyota all use essentially the same coolant technology.
Mazda sells this coolant as: Genuine Mazda Long Life Coolant. According to the labels on the container, its ingredients are Ethylene Glycol, Diethylene Glycol, Water, Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Hydroxide. It meets ASTM spec D-3306. It is a concentrate and Mazda recommends a 50/50 mixture of Mazda Long Life Coolant and de-ionised water for year round protection."
In laymans terms OAT and G12 spec.... in essence Jap coolant is a G12 type whatever the colour, which does "not play well with the other children" in the coolant family.
Hence the don't mix message and why many use Carplan Premium Red G12+ type as it can mix with all the coolants in an emergency situation...
"Prior to the 2005 model year, Mazdas were equipped with a first generation P-OAT (Phosphated Organic Acid Technology) coolant develped and manufactured by CCI, the leading Japanese coolant company. P-OAT coolants rely on a combination of phosphates and organic acids to prevent corrosion, other major Japanese automakers, Honda, Nissan and Toyota all use essentially the same coolant technology.
Mazda sells this coolant as: Genuine Mazda Long Life Coolant. According to the labels on the container, its ingredients are Ethylene Glycol, Diethylene Glycol, Water, Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Hydroxide. It meets ASTM spec D-3306. It is a concentrate and Mazda recommends a 50/50 mixture of Mazda Long Life Coolant and de-ionised water for year round protection."
In laymans terms OAT and G12 spec.... in essence Jap coolant is a G12 type whatever the colour, which does "not play well with the other children" in the coolant family.
Hence the don't mix message and why many use Carplan Premium Red G12+ type as it can mix with all the coolants in an emergency situation...
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Re: COOLANT TYPE
Hi,
The label (WLO1A) under the bonnet states.
NOTES ON ADDING OR CHANGING COOLANT.
Follow the instructions in the workshop manual.
USE HIGH-QUALITY ETHYLENE GLYCOL anti-freeze coolant FOR ALUMINUM ENGINE.
The label (WLO1A) under the bonnet states.
NOTES ON ADDING OR CHANGING COOLANT.
Follow the instructions in the workshop manual.
USE HIGH-QUALITY ETHYLENE GLYCOL anti-freeze coolant FOR ALUMINUM ENGINE.
- haydn callow
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Re: COOLANT TYPE
Thanks for that super info....
Never read the notice under the bonnet.
I suppose if anyone changes to OAT then that notice should be removed.
So Mike....what you are saying is that P-OAT should not be mixed with OAT or anything else for that matter....P-OAT is actually a Glycol based coolant ??
Thanks
Never read the notice under the bonnet.
I suppose if anyone changes to OAT then that notice should be removed.
So Mike....what you are saying is that P-OAT should not be mixed with OAT or anything else for that matter....P-OAT is actually a Glycol based coolant ??
Thanks
Re: COOLANT TYPE
Where did "the script" come from Mike?
US first generation OATs allegedly caused a lot of problems leading to legal class actions - including water pumps corrosion, cavitation, then eventually failures. Did the CCI first generation Mazda OATs have similar problems, hence the 2005 change?
I'm no chemist but I don't understand how added acid compounds (Organic Acids in "OAT") reduce engine corrosion, when the principal initial cause of corrosion, as I understand it, is the breakdown of depleted ethylene glycol anti-freeze into a complex of acids. Adding acids to acids would, to my simple mind, be pretty likely to hasten the corrosion of fuel pumps, etc. Didn't think acids were used to neutralise acids. Doesn't it require alkaline neutralers? Anyone know the answers?
(Every OAT spec I've looked at, also includes ethylene glycol as the root anti-freeze compound.)
US first generation OATs allegedly caused a lot of problems leading to legal class actions - including water pumps corrosion, cavitation, then eventually failures. Did the CCI first generation Mazda OATs have similar problems, hence the 2005 change?
I'm no chemist but I don't understand how added acid compounds (Organic Acids in "OAT") reduce engine corrosion, when the principal initial cause of corrosion, as I understand it, is the breakdown of depleted ethylene glycol anti-freeze into a complex of acids. Adding acids to acids would, to my simple mind, be pretty likely to hasten the corrosion of fuel pumps, etc. Didn't think acids were used to neutralise acids. Doesn't it require alkaline neutralers? Anyone know the answers?
(Every OAT spec I've looked at, also includes ethylene glycol as the root anti-freeze compound.)
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- mikexgough
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Re: COOLANT TYPE
As Ron says........ OAT does still contain Glycol......
Now using VAG "G" denotations as guide.......rather than the other ones and to save confusion....
The Japanese coolant is equal as near as dammit to the G12 type......for arguments sake
Bluecol is G11 type.....now with Jap coolant which could be the same colour......don't mix....hence gelling and sludge......that many Bongo owners suffer the consequences of.
G12+ coolants are available in Red or Purple and are the "New generation" of coolants and they are OAT......(there is a G12++ but we don't need to go there for this thread)
G12+ type are known as long life or Lifetime coolants as new car makers look to make them fill and forget.....
so never replace in the lifetime of the vehicle unless a cooling system component fails I.E Water pump
For us as Bongo owners, the key is that you can use any UK coolant out there after a decent flush in a Bongo.....you pays your money and all that, so you could use a green or blue G11 type no problem.....but just don't mix with some of the G12 coolants (you can still get them) as G12 doesn't play with G11 as this is the gelling/sludge formula.....
This is the main reason why I and other use G12+ coolants.....it's long life, Red and has a dye to see weeps at hoses and gaskets and mixes with all coolants in an emergency......the other thing is that it is recommended for the Ranger WL-T engine....
I would hazard a guess that for V6 and 2.0L engines, that they would also be able to use G12+ as they would have had a G12 type in JP anyway.....
Hope it helps....
I guess the No Mix message needs to be got across more and as I have said several times.....
If the Bongo is a new Jap import or new to you.....change to coolant (after a flush) with one known to you.....
Needless to say I am not going to favour a brand BUT it is time to ignore Halfords and use a Trade counter and ask for whichever "G" coolant you want rather than talk to the children in Halfords who know as much about coolant as they do about hedge funds....
Now using VAG "G" denotations as guide.......rather than the other ones and to save confusion....
The Japanese coolant is equal as near as dammit to the G12 type......for arguments sake
Bluecol is G11 type.....now with Jap coolant which could be the same colour......don't mix....hence gelling and sludge......that many Bongo owners suffer the consequences of.
G12+ coolants are available in Red or Purple and are the "New generation" of coolants and they are OAT......(there is a G12++ but we don't need to go there for this thread)
G12+ type are known as long life or Lifetime coolants as new car makers look to make them fill and forget.....

For us as Bongo owners, the key is that you can use any UK coolant out there after a decent flush in a Bongo.....you pays your money and all that, so you could use a green or blue G11 type no problem.....but just don't mix with some of the G12 coolants (you can still get them) as G12 doesn't play with G11 as this is the gelling/sludge formula.....
This is the main reason why I and other use G12+ coolants.....it's long life, Red and has a dye to see weeps at hoses and gaskets and mixes with all coolants in an emergency......the other thing is that it is recommended for the Ranger WL-T engine....
I would hazard a guess that for V6 and 2.0L engines, that they would also be able to use G12+ as they would have had a G12 type in JP anyway.....
Hope it helps....
I guess the No Mix message needs to be got across more and as I have said several times.....
If the Bongo is a new Jap import or new to you.....change to coolant (after a flush) with one known to you.....
Needless to say I am not going to favour a brand BUT it is time to ignore Halfords and use a Trade counter and ask for whichever "G" coolant you want rather than talk to the children in Halfords who know as much about coolant as they do about hedge funds....
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Re: COOLANT TYPE
So, if my coolant is green, and was replaced on import, can I assume that it's G11?
- mikexgough
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Re: COOLANT TYPE
assume nothing....... but as an example if it has This coolant then it would be......
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Re: COOLANT TYPE
Thank goodness we got that cleared up 

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Re: COOLANT TYPE
If only Asallen... Unfortunately peeps will still mix coolants mistakenly thinking that if they already have blue (for example) then it's fine to put in whatever type euro coolant as long as it is blue.
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- mikexgough
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Re: COOLANT TYPE
bigdaddycain wrote:If only Asallen... Unfortunately peeps will still mix coolants mistakenly thinking that if they already have blue (for example) then it's fine to put in whatever type euro coolant as long as it is blue.


The safest and easiest way is to use the VW "G" denotations to indentify coolant type than some of the other specifications there are out there ........AND if Bongo is new in the UK or new to YOU.......chances are the coolant type is unknown......
What we do know is that Japanese Coolants are akin to the G12 types and many folks see a, green or blue colour in the main, in the expansion tank......then they assume that the coolant is the same because if the colour....BUT....as can be seen in the previous link I posted the green coolant is G11 and that does not mix with the G12 it creates brown sludge and gelling.....then blocked radiators etc and probable overheating or associated problems.
The best solution (no pun intended), with a bongo that is new to you is to flush the cooling system and replace the coolant with one of your choice........(unless the seller/dealer has changed it and can verify the coolant type and date of change)
I am reluctant to name brands but here goes......
Some have used Comma Xtream G48 Green coolant (a G11 type which contains silicates but fine on it's own) others with diesel's use Car Plan Premium Red coolant or Xtream G30 Red coolant (both G12+ coolants and like Japanese coolant silicate free and recommended for the WL-T diesel engine )
The main message is Don't mix them and make sure you know what is in your cooling system......if in doubt and if it is before you can change your coolant......just add water to top up....
Hope that helps
I forgot to add........ beware using Halfords as source of coolant if you DIY a coolant change..... if you are confused then the poorly trained staff will ask you if you have a pre or post 1998 vehicle....and give an age related coolant....



SO play safe and visit a car parts Trade Counter of somewhere like GSF parts/ Partco/ CAS and the like to get your coolant.... and ask for the "G" type you want....
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