Decided a new thread might be sensible for this question, rather than losing it within my overheating saga http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... 41&start=0.
So, cutting a long story short:
- Initial overheat led to replacement thermostat, radiator, and water pump, and what I'm told was a proper bleed according to the fact-sheet, via a local (now untrusted) garage.
- Snif-test (using the blue chemical which turns yellow) performed on the header tank doesn't identify any hydrocarbons in the water.
- Following above work, car drove fine for a 100 mile motorway journey at 2250rpm/60mph on Friday night, and five subsequent, short (2-10km) trips over the weekend.
- Upon first attempt at a reversal of the 100 mile motorway journey on sat night, overheat occurred within 3 miles. Nothing under the bonnet (i.e. hoses to/from rad; hoses to/from header tank) were warm, with cold coolant blowing out of the header tank overflow pipe.
- Dropping coolant, refilling, and following bleed procedure subsequently allowed a successful repeat of the 100 mile return journey home.
- The type of overheat I'm seeing here appears, to me, to be zero circulation of coolant away from the engine, suggesting air block (else would expect rad top hose and header tank to be warming) - fair?
- Is it likely a Bongo will run for 100 miles fine, and then for some air in the system to have found its way to a bad spot in the system for a later journey? Seems odd/unlikely to me (would expect, once the stat is open, and water whizzing round, any remaining small bubbles ought to be sorting themselves out via the expansion tank?)
- Is it likely that bubbles are "getting in" somewhere when the Bongo is left to stand? Perhaps a pin-hole I've been unable to detect in a "bad place" is allowing air to be sucked into the system when the car stands for some time, whilst coolant loss remains insignificant/invisible from the header-tank? I shall have to get some of the UV chemicals a-la-Hayden to check for this.
- Can a head-gasket failure be such that everything will be fine for such a long journey, with air air subsequently being allowed between burn side and water when the engine cools? I've been of the opinion this is more of a "once it's gone, it's gone" thing, and more likely to be obvious with a nice hot engine than a cold one?
- Anything else which might be the cause? I'm still hoping it was continued poor-bleeding by local garage which was the trigger for all of this?
Gav.