Wiring Help

[mainy]

Hi All
Need some advice. I want to wire my interior lights front and rear cigarette lighter into my liesure battery. Can anyone give me some tips.

[francophile1947]

Several methods on forum, nut I used this from pippin:-
Look at the fuse board by the drivers right knee.
Remove the fixing screws and wiggle it forwards so that the rear is visible.

Counting from top left to right the numbering goes 1 to 8.

Fuses 1 to 5 are fed by a thick white/red from fuse BTN under the bonnet, which is always live.
(the fuse, silly, not the bonnet!)

Fuses 6,7,8 are fed only when the ignition is on via the thick red/black wire.
6&7 are curtains L&R, 8 is cigarlighter & mirrors.

1] If you do not have a secondary battery:

You can either select just the cigarlighter/mirrors or probably easier and handier select those and the curtains so that you can operate them without the ignition on.

Cut the thick red/black wire going in a couple of inches from the rear of the fuseholder for 6,7,8. Insulate the end that comes out of the loom.
Use a short length of similarly sized wire to extend the end going into 6,7,8 and tap it into the thick white/red that feeds fuses 1-5.

If you want to select just fuse 8 for the cigarlighter/mirrors then you would have to identify the blue wire coming out of fuse 8, cut that and insulate the end coming out of the fuse 8. The blue wire going into the loom would then need an in-line 15A fuse fitting and then tapping onto the aforementioned thick white/red that feeds fuses 1-5.

2] If you have a secondary battery you may wish to feed things from that rather than from the engine battery.

The instructions above are modified only by disregarding tapping anything into the aforementioned thick white/red that feeds fuses 1-5.
Instead you would need to connect it/them into an appropriately fused wire connected to the secondary battery.

While you are at it you could also feed all the internal vehicle lighting from that source as well.
To do so, cut the blue/red wire coming out of fuse 1 and insulate the end coming out of the fuse. Fit an appropriate 10A inline fuseholder to the end disappearing into the loom and connect it to the secondary battery.

So, there you have it! If in doubt - ASK!

[bigdaddycain]

Daveblueozzie is your man....he did mine for me...

[mainy]

Thanks for the info people I will look into it at the weekend

Best wishes

mainy

[daveblueozzie]

you do not have to cut the wires going to the fuse box you can patch the wires from your leisure battery into the front of the fuse box , i used the info from bongo fury member corblimey.click on the view topic below.

http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... hp?t=11189

[dandywarhol]

..........or feed the wires around the front of the fusebox, crimp male end narrow spades and insert them into where the fuse would go.
That's what the Willinton kit does

[mikeonb4c]

..........or feed the wires around the front of the fusebox, crimp male end narrow spades and insert them into where the fuse would go.
That's what the Willinton kit does

Woa Dandy - are you saying the Willinton kit not only includes a VSR and wiring that can handle high amperage, but also the wiring and parts needed to reroute the Bongos wiring (without cutting existing wires) so that blinds, stereo (anything else?) etc. run off the leisure battery AND that his kit includes an idiots guide that makes it simple to do. Time to abandon my (excellent bt outmoded) corblimey kit if so, How much does Willinton charge for this kit?

[Chas]

Does anyone have contact details for Willington. I thought he was on ebay but either he sin't or my ebay fu is weak.

Chas

[daveblueozzie]

try this number for ebay. this one has ended but it will give you the email for willinton, plus a bit of info on the product.

220216809482

[corblimey]

Outmoded indeed!

Willinton's kit does indeed include everything you need and instructions. Obviously, it's all based on my hard work

Seriously though, it is by far the easiest way to go. Martin has done all the hard work and all for only a fraction more than the cost of the components. You can contact him through ebay http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/willinton/

I made up a new charging circuit last night with some 16mm^2 cable and it's a real b*tch to work with if you haven't got heavy weight crimpers, cutters etc. Still, it's going to take more than 100 Amps to blow my fuse man.

[daveblueozzie]

i used the original destructions and component list from you corblimey, do you think i need to up grade ,had no probs at all with the set up i have.

[bigdaddycain]

i used the original destructions and component list from you corblimey, do you think i need to up grade ,had no probs at all with the set up i have.

Ditto....

[mikeonb4c]

Must admit I'm very happy with my corblimey setup - he was the first man to produce the much asked for idiots guide that made it possible for many of us (well me BDC and DBO at least, but there were others) to consider DIYing the job. But I have had the fuses blow when deeply discharged - I carry jump leads for that eventuality.

I wouldn't rush to upgrade it except a kit that upgrades AND gives me what I need to rewire the ancillaries WITHOUT cutting wires (corblimey shares this view - we hate 'the snip') and at a sensible price does make it tempting to uprate the system. On the long long list it goes

[thedogsbollox]

Please help me here and clear a few things up. The willington kit.
Is there really no need for snipping wires?
I have 2 huge leisure batterys for my dinghy to power a leccy outboard can i get trays to suit one of those from Willington?
Is the liesure battery charged from the alternator? If so is a different alternator needed?

I am sure that if you can answer that lot then i will think up some more.
Thanks
Tony

[dandywarhol]

1. No wires to snip
2. The trays are designed for a 110A battery size
3. Yes, uses the original alternator.
4. I'm sure you will.............