Novice _ Trim Removal Advice

ULRICH · Post by **ULRICH** » Tue Feb 19, 2008 9:13 pm

Can anyone please advise on trim removal, I don't know what is behind there and don't want to break anything.
Need Drivers door off to investigate a rattle.
Need offside middle trim panel off to repair a couple of dings under the passenger compartment window.
A sequence of events would be great as plastic snaps all to easily.

Thanks a lot
Jim

maxheadroom · Post by **maxheadroom** » Tue Feb 19, 2008 9:20 pm

UlRICH

http://www.lushprojects.com/bongopartsm ... mgno=.html

ULRICH · Post by **ULRICH** » Tue Feb 19, 2008 9:39 pm

Thanks a lot, I can handle that. I will do the door first.

mikeonb4c · Post by **mikeonb4c** » Tue Feb 19, 2008 9:49 pm

I've done front doors before. Easy peasy and I'm no mechanic or bodywork specialist. Remove the obvious screws (one is under a plastic cap, others are visible but remember the one at the bottom of the plastic door pull, also can't remember if there is one by the door handle). Then the panel should come away without much bother with a little manouevring. The door handle will actually go through the trim panel with a little jiggery pokery so it doesnt have to be removed. If the rattle is behind the polythene membrane that is then revealed and that is held onto the metal of the door with black goo, then you need to patient. I used a sharp knife so I could slash through the goo as I peeled back the polythene. You don't want it forming long saggy gloopy threads. Provided you do it carefully and don't get it on you, it's not as bad as it looks.

Bon chance

PS - not removed rear trim panels yet but want to at some point so will be v interested in what others say here

Post by **aitch** » Tue Feb 19, 2008 11:19 pm

i have removed rear trim panels and didn't have a problem but still need to remove sliding door panel to investigate a problem with the lock and have been warned about sticky mess behind there will let you know.

mick · Post by **mick** » Tue Feb 19, 2008 11:32 pm

I had the door panel off to sort the central locking - fairly straightforward, so here goes ....

First remove the little grommets that conceal the philips screws around the sides (they simply pop off), and undo the screws

Next, undo the screws that are slightly concealed in the door release lever and the door recess (the plastic oblong recessed square bit you pull to shut the door)

Then take a wide bladed screwdriver (cover the end in a bit of fabric to protect paintwork), and lever the panel away from the frame. Once you have created a little gap, you can get your fingers between panel and door and prise the panel free.

However, the top edge of the panel is recessed into the door frame, and needs lifting out of its groove, whilst pulling backwards and upwards.

Once the panel is off, it is still connected to the door by the door release handle and some push fit connectors.

At this point I had some difficulty in continuing with removal, as the clear plastic sheet lining was impeding easy access. Life is too short to work my way round this problem, so I ripped off the plastic and put it in the bin. Maybe my door will now rot to pieces, but I don't care, and anyway, everything seemed bone dry either side of the plastic membrane.

The door release lever needs to be unhooked (there is a little clip which needs to be lifted from the release lever bar.

The connectors can simply be pulled apart.

Reassembly is obviously all of the above in reverse, but connecting bar and clip was a bit tricky. Although it sounds difficult, the whole operation took about 15 minutes. Have fun

mikeonb4c · Post by **mikeonb4c** » Wed Feb 20, 2008 12:20 am

I've got to say that peeling back the polythene from the sticky stuff wasn't that bad armed with a sharp knife to slash at it with - hard to explain, easier to do.

Also, I was expecting to have to remove the door handle levers, but found to my great surprise and pleasure that by getting them at the correct angle, the whole lot just pushed through the door panel so it could be removed. It wasn't a one-off either as I had both door panels off countless times during my attempts to repair my wing mirrors.

ULRICH · Post by **ULRICH** » Wed Feb 20, 2008 12:25 am

Hi Guys, Just done the door and gained a screwdriver!!! Could be Mazda vintage 1996.
Now for those mid 'offside' dings, not a screw cover in sight apart from top grab handle screws.

Thanks again

mikeonb4c · Post by **mikeonb4c** » Wed Feb 20, 2008 12:27 am

Excellent - and in the dark too?

sajseven · Post by **sajseven** » Wed Feb 20, 2008 12:36 am

He has nightvision like those fancy smancy bats. LOL

ULRICH · Post by **ULRICH** » Wed Feb 20, 2008 9:12 pm

Some of us work during the day and have to rely on that stuff called electrical power during the hours of darkness. Try it ...

madmile · Post by **madmile** » Wed Feb 20, 2008 9:41 pm

Hi ULRICH - not sure if you found the answer to the rear compartment side panels, but here goes.
If you are going to remove the rear o/s panel, the front panel overlaps it and needs to come off first.
Front O/s panel - For total removal, I first remove ash tray area and air con. The aircon, just to avoid damaging the cables as I tug the panel out. With the air con unit screws out (2) I just drop it through to the inside. Panels are held by several metal spring clips at the top and each side. Generally getting yout fingers in where the seat belt enters at the top is good enough and give a short but firm tug - working downwards and along the top.

Once out of the way you can do the same to the rear panel - you need to undo the lower seat belt bolt to fully remove the panel.

Rear n/s panel is same as o/s rear, but you also need to unplug the lighter socket as well as the window switch(if fitted). Cig socket and window switches can be unplugged with the panel a few inches away from the wall - just remember to plug them back in before you reinstall the panels.

Some of the clips may come away from the panel when removed. Occasionally the bit that holds the clip will break, but unlikely to be more than 1 here and there. If the come adrift, squeeze them back to a tight fit with pliers. Locate the plastic pins and when it feels like its in the right place give the panel a good thump all round the edges to refit.

The lower side panels are a lot softer plastic than the upper panels (which to my cost, can say break quite easily) - to be on the safe side, dont attempt first thing on a frosty morning without fully warming up the van interior.

ULRICH · Post by **ULRICH** » Sat Feb 23, 2008 1:06 am

Sure this will help others as well, not so daunting when someone has been there before. Trim is removed without damage and I have access to repair those dings. My first post on the forum and am a little disappointed that inane reply posts manage to clutter an otherwise good interchange of ideas and experience , Smartasses should stick to what they know best.... dohhh? Thanks again for the advice.
Jim

mikeonb4c · Post by **mikeonb4c** » Sat Feb 23, 2008 1:12 am

ULRICH wrote:Sure this will help others as well, not so daunting when someone has been there before. Trim is removed without damage and I have access to repair those dings. My first post on the forum and am a little disappointed that inane reply posts manage to clutter an otherwise good interchange of ideas and experience , Smartasses should stick to what they know best.... dohhh? Thanks again for the advice.
Jim

Good news ULRICH - glad its sorted. Don't worry about the inane remarks, its just the whacky humour that's part of BF. It's a bit weird when you first encounter it but it's all good natured and you soon get used to it and how to give as good as you get, in a good humoured way.

Must try removing my panels - been putting it off but need to fit reversing sensor kit

Novice _ Trim Removal Advice

Novice _ Trim Removal Advice

Trim Removal

Door Trim Done

Trim Removal

Thanks for Info

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