Front Heater Relay Location
Moderators: Doone, westonwarrior
Front Heater Relay Location
Morning all...
My front heater doesn't work so been through the various checks as recommended:
1) Fan was jammed, eased off a bit by hand & will turn when 12V is applied across the terminals. Need to strip & lube it though once I figure out how to get it out.
2) No power coming into connection block for fan.
3) Resistor block looks ok as far as I can tell.
4) No power coming into resistor block
5) Rear heater operates when switched on & front fan turned to 1, so I assume that the switch control itself is ok.
So, I'm guessing that the relay is at fault. I believe that this is located beside the battery, but I have 3 of them there, mounted in a row on the wing. Can anyone help identify which is the front heater fan relay? Or identify what the other 2 relays are - I could find the fan one by a process of elimination then.
Thanks
Rhod
My front heater doesn't work so been through the various checks as recommended:
1) Fan was jammed, eased off a bit by hand & will turn when 12V is applied across the terminals. Need to strip & lube it though once I figure out how to get it out.
2) No power coming into connection block for fan.
3) Resistor block looks ok as far as I can tell.
4) No power coming into resistor block
5) Rear heater operates when switched on & front fan turned to 1, so I assume that the switch control itself is ok.
So, I'm guessing that the relay is at fault. I believe that this is located beside the battery, but I have 3 of them there, mounted in a row on the wing. Can anyone help identify which is the front heater fan relay? Or identify what the other 2 relays are - I could find the fan one by a process of elimination then.
Thanks
Rhod
- dandywarhol
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Thanks Dandywarhol
Resistor does look OK, but could be U/S. No power coming into it though, as far as I can tell, so suspect problem is elsewhere. The fact sheet suggests that there is a relay in the circuit & if this had failed it could explain why the dashboard switch appears to work, but there is no power in the main circuit. Looks as though I may just have to check through all the relays to try & find if one is faulty. Oh for a wiring diagram
Rhod
Resistor does look OK, but could be U/S. No power coming into it though, as far as I can tell, so suspect problem is elsewhere. The fact sheet suggests that there is a relay in the circuit & if this had failed it could explain why the dashboard switch appears to work, but there is no power in the main circuit. Looks as though I may just have to check through all the relays to try & find if one is faulty. Oh for a wiring diagram

Rhod
- dandywarhol
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Thanks both.
Ian's still on holiday, so can't access the wiring diagrams at the moment - but doubt if any stretch of the imagination would call me a "competent auto-electrician" in any case
None the 3 relays seemed to have anything to do with the heater circuit, but when I rechecked the connector block coming into the resistor I did get a voltage reading of 12, so looks as if circuit is live. Resistor block looks ok, but no connectivity across "live" terminal and other ones - so I think you were right and that's the guilty party. Replacement resistor on the way from the supplier of the vehicle, so will be a few days before I can confirm.
Rhod
Ian's still on holiday, so can't access the wiring diagrams at the moment - but doubt if any stretch of the imagination would call me a "competent auto-electrician" in any case

None the 3 relays seemed to have anything to do with the heater circuit, but when I rechecked the connector block coming into the resistor I did get a voltage reading of 12, so looks as if circuit is live. Resistor block looks ok, but no connectivity across "live" terminal and other ones - so I think you were right and that's the guilty party. Replacement resistor on the way from the supplier of the vehicle, so will be a few days before I can confirm.
Rhod
If you've ordered a new one, why not rip it apart and repair it? There's loadsa info on here about how to do it - I recently repaired mine by breaking open the case - resoldering the contacts - then Aralditing around the case to protect it from water, etc - jobs a good-un!
Also, I feel that the glue should stop it becoming unsoldered again in a hurry - the strip contacts do see to be naturally biased towards being apart - so in an overheat situation they want to spring apart - the Araldite, I think, will stop this happening.
Mike
Also, I feel that the glue should stop it becoming unsoldered again in a hurry - the strip contacts do see to be naturally biased towards being apart - so in an overheat situation they want to spring apart - the Araldite, I think, will stop this happening.
Mike
Curator of the Bridgwater Motorbike Collection


- mikeonb4c
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Ah! Yes, if course, that would make a difference. Although it might be possible to argue that physical distance from him shouldn't make it impossible for you to realise your guarantee. If the car is clearly faulty, he should at least pay for parts and might be persuaded to let it be fitted locally, or else contribute to the cost of getting the Bongo back to him (I think the Sale of Goods Act says, for example, that the purchasor should not have to pay to return faulty goods within the 6 months after purchase - this may have parallels with your case?). Of course its better to get goodwill if you can but best to research your rights anyway.
Good luck.
Mike
Good luck.
Mike
