Mike
Anyone able to advise on removing a rear bumper?
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- mikeonb4c
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Anyone able to advise on removing a rear bumper?
At some point I'm gonna have to remove my rear bumper to repair and respray it (I think I'll be more relaxed doing this and working with hot air gun and a dolly from behind the bumper than trying to do it in place). I daresay it is straightforward removing the bumper (if a bit messy as I remember one post saying) but if anyone has done it and can give any helpful hints, warnings etc. I'd be grateful. No sweat if not, I'll just boldly go where I've never gone before etc.
Mike
Mike
- brorabongo
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Absolute easy-pesy. Took my bumper off to fit towbar it was just two screws in each wheel arch, one of which was the plastic type which is sort of half turn then pull away. Then four bolts at the back if I remember 13mm and the bumper pulls away from its locating holes. If you look at the members section for fitting a towbar you might get a good idea whats involved.
The only tip I can think of is wear goggles as it's unreal how much crap accumulates in behind the bumper
The bolts/nuts on mine came off easy and the screws in the wheel arch where accessable by manipulating the plastic covers.
You'll have no problem( I
)
The only tip I can think of is wear goggles as it's unreal how much crap accumulates in behind the bumper
The bolts/nuts on mine came off easy and the screws in the wheel arch where accessable by manipulating the plastic covers.
You'll have no problem( I
- Simon Jones
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From memory - 2 screws (one self tapper & one threaded) just inside each wheel arch. Remove the small plastic panel as part of this process. Inside the bumper (accessible from under the rear of the van), are 4 nuts that go from captive bolts in the bumper to the metal strengthener inside. Worth trying to wire-brush the thread first & use WD40. The rust on the threads can be stronger that the captive fixing that hold the bolt. If you have a towbar, remove the ball first & disconnect any foglights. Finally, give it a gentle pull backwards & it should slide out quite easily.
Refitting is the reversal, but note there are locating pegs to assist alignment & watch the paint on the body work - probably a 2 person job as the bumper can be quite "wobbly".
Refitting is the reversal, but note there are locating pegs to assist alignment & watch the paint on the body work - probably a 2 person job as the bumper can be quite "wobbly".
- mikeonb4c
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The usual quality replies. Thank you v much brora and Simon. Probably a lot more useful than the workshop manual, assuming it even covers such mundane things. I'll dig out me old goggles. I know one bad thing is likely to be the underseal stuff I had put on Mango Bongo. Its great stuff, but not when you want to start undoing nuts etc. that have been covered with it. Wear clothes you don't need to be clean EVER again.
Mike
Mike
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bigdaddycain
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That'll be ALL my clobber then mike, cos i'm a scruff
I cant suggest owt on this one mate, i repaired my bumper "in situ" because of removal reservations.
One thing i can suggest though mate, if you do get lumbered with re-fitting the bumper on your tod... mask the lower section of the rear quarters to give a bit of protection if you "have a little slip".
The neat green wont look so neat if ya clonk the bumper against it mate
I cant suggest owt on this one mate, i repaired my bumper "in situ" because of removal reservations.
One thing i can suggest though mate, if you do get lumbered with re-fitting the bumper on your tod... mask the lower section of the rear quarters to give a bit of protection if you "have a little slip".
The neat green wont look so neat if ya clonk the bumper against it mate
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bigdaddycain
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