Bongo Fury

on my bongo head had crack near exaust valve and dont spitting out coolant'...... only sugar taste of the smoke

if the head is cracked its usually cylinder 2 or 3 behind the valve head so it may well not show problems on a comp test. i would do one last test before ripping the head off. get one of the cheap probe cameras and remove the glow plugs then look inside the cylinders, 3 may look nice and dry and light coloured sooty, the 4th may be darker in colour and thicker soot showing signs of moisture running in when the engine is stopped and a particular exhaust valve is open. the leak usually is around or up inside the exhaust valve tube.

the thread i will link to below is a really good look at the cylinder head. bloody pics have gone gone though.

GEOFF sorry to ask this again geoff but this thread is worth it.

please insert pics in this great thread. its only a few pages.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=36433&hilit=crack+head

i byu head in china https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/WL-WLT-W ... c1a55a0f43

If your using Chrome as the Browser add this extension available from the Chrome store its free) https://chrome.google.com/webstore/deta ... apbifiaedg
This circumvents the Photobucket problem and puts all the photo's back in correctly

"remove the glow plugs then look" - our engine have "forcamera" - you dont may look valves and innards of head it is how look "cut" head https://mikrob.ru/viewtopic.php?t=23108&start=2940 it is my head - i remove exaust and dont try car apr 1 week - you may see Al-oxide from antifreeze https://mikrob.ru/viewtopic.php?t=23108&start=3735

it second temp sensor

The heads are not fragile, there are some runnng around with 250000 on the clock.......just look after the cooling system and they are good work horses......fitting another series of engine is a non starter imho

Where are you getting your new head from

If its possible to do it won't be done on the drive, you lift the Bongo OFF the engine, so you need a vehicle lift as a minimum!
Changing the engine type is not simple either, you need a matching gearbox, ECU and relevant wiring looms.

Just remember , the guarantee will be void if you drill holes in a "NEW HEAD"

Take care

its easy doable to do an engine or box swap on the drive, you just have to think a little stonehenge tech or be part egyptian . a good jack and plenty of wood and your sorted.

thanks for the add on geoff, i will stop bugging you now. you could have told me though that it was only me that couldnt see the pics.

"how are you displaying the temp. from this?" - easy! I connect wire at plug on that temp sensor and plug on base temp sensor - now both temp sensor give signal at indicator - it work now as all "normal car" - stay at 2- o/clock!!!

often our head breaks after a long drive at high speeds with a large load.... my bongo broke down after driving in the mountains of Georgia - dont move engine more 3000 rpm long time and full accelerator - be happy!

"if you drill holes in a "NEW HEAD"" - for next - now you may use that sensor - https://www.chipdip.ru/product/b57045-k102-k
it dont need use wery big drill it be invisible!

"false resistance value" - I see at that forum info about how delete resistance into "indicator" - for have "normal gide" - it is WRONG WAY!!!! base temp dont work right when engine bubble - it install into higest point - under it be vapour - vapour dont correctly transfer hot from head - base temp sensor lying//////it is "tehnical error" japans engineers