Bongo Fury

missfixit70 wrote: .........presents another leak risk ( IMO & his - jaylee ).

I'll 3rd that.

What Haydn is saying is absolutely right. An in-hose sensor will give a more immediate response. Downside? 3 more potential leak risks.
Not sure about the 'fillet' approach, but again, introduces another potential leak point. Have you tried these Haydn? - any personal experience with 'em?
Just re-read your post Haydn - noticed the word 'Jubilee' was mentioned and I shuddered . Don't they work with the Mazda constant pressure clips?

Another potential problem is the shape of the sensor. Think it's round section. Would the 'fillet' still work OK?

If Nigel chooses the non-invasive method, then I have a plan to make it more responsive (sorry jaylee - bit late for yours unless you want to refit).

The fillet is to allow the wire to pass through, so the sensor shape is irrelevant.

I used the word Jub Clip as a generic term.......
Not allowed to say " Norm*" Cl**p...

haydn callow wrote:I used the word Jub Clip as a generic term.......
Not allowed to say " Norm*" Cl**p...

Then I'll say it.NORMA - best clips around, and Haydn sells 'em. Don't settle for anything less than the best.

Who ordered the rubber fillet!!?

widdowson2008 wrote: If Nigel chooses the non-invasive method, then I have a plan to make it more responsive (sorry jaylee - bit late for yours unless you want to refit).

Hey Steve, i'm always open to suggestions...! I have ordered a second sensor now... (Well i do still have a spare length of 7.2mm conduit!!)

One thing i should add, it's possible to route the sensor wire sensor end first down to the engine bay, there was plenty of slack..
My point being with regards to unnecessary soldering of the wires causing resistance & slightly different readings/interpretations on the unit...? I may be wrong??

missfixit70 wrote:The fillet is to allow the wire to pass through, so the sensor shape is irrelevant.

Going off to look at them on Haydns site. Gotta admit I aint seen em yet. However, if they mean violating the integrity of the system in any way, then I think I'll give em a miss co I'm a windy bugger. Windy as in cautious, not flatulent that is. (though my wife may say different.)

Hi all,

excuse me for asking what may be a silly question...but..

jaylee, how do you wire that feebay temp gauge for 12v electric?

yep back to basic please....I got some idea where to stick my probes! just where do those power wire go??

thanks

jaylee wrote:
Hey Steve, i'm always open to suggestions...! I have ordered a second sensor now... (Well i do still have a spare length of 7.2mm conduit!!)

One thing i should add, it's possible to route the sensor wire sensor end first down to the engine bay, there was plenty of slack..
My point being with regards to unnecessary soldering of the wires causing resistance & slightly different readings/interpretations on the unit...? I may be wrong??

Nigels unit will be here before yours I think, so let me have a look and see if my idea is feasible. Simple - but then again, so am I.
If it works, then you will be the first to know - trust me.

Nigel seems to think that the unit (like yours) can be calibrated by fiddling with summat on the back. Is that right? Seen owt like that?
Reason for mentioning this is that we tested some sensors Helen got and they were found to be reading slightly different from each other and we needed them to be synchronised. Fair dues to the supplier, he replaced them with sensors which he personally checked for synchronisation.
If I had thought on BEFORE you installed yours, I would have suggested a simple check. and if your unit IS in fact adjustable, then we can get it producing numbers that you can be confident with.

Think you are right on your second point. Sounds logical to me anyway, but what do I know?

rhino-wayne wrote:Hi all,

excuse me for asking what may be a silly question...but..

jaylee, how do you wire that feebay temp gauge for 12v electric?

yep back to basic please....I got some idea where to stick my probes! just where do those power wire go??

thanks

Not silly at all Wayne..

I took a fused feed so the unit comes on with the ignition when i start the engine.. The same feed for my turbo gauge at the back of the cab fuse box.. Not the ACC first position key switch which powers my volt meter,(Radio, blinds.)...

Cant remember what wire colour now, but gis a chance & i'll go out & have a look for you..?!!

Unless someone else knows & can save me the trouble!??

You won't find the rubber fillets on the web site.....I just have a few in my odds/sods drawer.

widdowson2008 wrote:

jaylee wrote:
Hey Steve, i'm always open to suggestions...! I have ordered a second sensor now... (Well i do still have a spare length of 7.2mm conduit!!)

One thing i should add, it's possible to route the sensor wire sensor end first down to the engine bay, there was plenty of slack..
My point being with regards to unnecessary soldering of the wires causing resistance & slightly different readings/interpretations on the unit...? I may be wrong??

Nigels unit will be here before yours I think, so let me have a look and see if my idea is feasible. Simple - but then again, so am I.
If it works, then you will be the first to know - trust me.

Nigel seems to think that the unit (like yours) can be calibrated by fiddling with summat on the back. Is that right? Seen owt like that?
Reason for mentioning this is that we tested some sensors Helen got and they were found to be reading slightly different from each other and we needed them to be synchronised. Fair dues to the supplier, he replaced them with sensors which he personally checked for synchronisation.
If I had thought on BEFORE you installed yours, I would have suggested a simple check. and if your unit IS in fact adjustable, then we can get it producing numbers that you can be confident with.

Think you are right on your second point. Sounds logical to me anyway, but what do I know?

I think you will find they are supplied with 100ohm thermisters +/- 5%...I have biught a few to play around with......The big downside is that they don't alarm at a set temp........and 5% is a bit naff....however does it really matter if they read 85C when 90C would be correct ??? what you worry about is if it suddenly starts to read 10C more than "normal" ... you get what you pay for.....I doubt you could ajust them........better thermisters are 10ohm +/- 1%

jaylee wrote:

rhino-wayne wrote:Hi all,

excuse me for asking what may be a silly question...but..

jaylee, how do you wire that feebay temp gauge for 12v electric?

yep back to basic please....I got some idea where to stick my probes! just where do those power wire go??

thanks

Not silly at all Wayne..

I took a fused feed so the unit comes on with the ignition when i start the engine.. The same feed for my turbo gauge at the back of the cab fuse box.. Not the ACC first position key switch which powers my volt meter,(Radio, blinds.)...

Cant remember what wire colour now, but gis a chance & i'll go out & have a look for you..?!!

Unless someone else knows & can save me the trouble!??

Back of the fusebox...2nd row down....green/yellow wire (offside blinds) will do the job

haydn callow wrote:

jaylee wrote:

rhino-wayne wrote:Hi all,

excuse me for asking what may be a silly question...but..

jaylee, how do you wire that feebay temp gauge for 12v electric?

yep back to basic please....I got some idea where to stick my probes! just where do those power wire go??

thanks

Not silly at all Wayne..

I took a fused feed so the unit comes on with the ignition when i start the engine.. The same feed for my turbo gauge at the back of the cab fuse box.. Not the ACC first position key switch which powers my volt meter,(Radio, blinds.)...

Cant remember what wire colour now, but gis a chance & i'll go out & have a look for you..?!!

Unless someone else knows & can save me the trouble!??

Back of the fusebox...2nd row down....green/yellow wire (offside blinds) will do the job

Hi i have fitted the first probe from a cube to the hose outlet stub by screwing it into a deep socket first and then "lashing it tight with a very heavy duty tie wrap, the other probe is threaded into the rear of cylinder head as recommended ,alls well until it reaches 62C then the cube stops scrolling and flashes what looks like
( rAd )
(as printed ) my power supply is from the driving battery vie a 5 amp fussed switch.

Tomo 53 wrote:Hi i have fitted the first probe from a cube to the hose outlet stub by screwing it into a deep socket first and then "lashing it tight with a very heavy duty tie wrap, the other probe is threaded into the rear of cylinder head as recommended ,alls well until it reaches 62C then the cube stops scrolling and flashes what looks like
( rAd )
(as printed ) my power supply is from the driving battery vie a 5 amp fussed switch.

Hi - I've also got a CUBE. The RAD is an alert triggered by the difference between temps 1 and 2. You can set the alert difference between 1c and 20c when setting up temp 1.

quote]

Funny....my cube does that but as mine is the LONG cube the scrolling is not a issue....mine just flashes "rad" and alarms....I have switched off that alarm (you can do that whilst setting it) if you can reach the switch on the back of the cube switch it off/on....that sorts mine.....I think they all do it....don't know why.....must be a way round it...