1996 2.5td 4x4 - Restoration Project

[cutlass]

NOTE! dont use more M10x140mm!!!! it limit size!!!

[cutlass]

I dont use drill bit !!!!! material of our head and front cover - aluminium! it is very soft material....you need only tap №1!!!!!!!!!!! - for twist tight!!!.....work - dont very fast, and often coat tap consistent grease against cuttings

[cutlass]

that bolt contact only motor oil - it twist into "gear box front cover" -

check torgue at main "heads bolt" - at my bongo - "thick" - 130-150Nm, "thin" - 90-110Nm

[cutlass]

plonkatronix - give me you e-mail - i sent "secret" info about "improved cooling sistem"

[mikeonb4c]

After an hour of persuasion with a howden's chisel, and a lump hammer, and a claw hammer to pull on, we managed to get the old elbow out and the new original fitted, one step forward

Disconnected two pipes to flush the front matrix through, connected them up to the hose pipe and turns on water and it popped off... completely blocked... sent it through the opposite direction and it cleared thankfully.
One of the metal pipes I took a hose off is rotten inside where the rubber sits so not leaking from there YET! so what's the bets all these pipes are rotten. I have been reading here about bypassing the rear matrix as this will take some pipes out our the equation, so will do this at some point along with checking every single pipe, there are lots of new pipes on here already but not the metal ones by the looks of things... any more hidden?

spent all day shaking the expansion bottle using 3 bottles of bleach and a packet of dried rice... I can see again

...thought, with all this crud i'm finding maybe water pump and thermostat should be changed too, whilst i'm on that subject what's your thoughts on these thermostats that open at 76deg ?

...and a new radiator might be good as these go with time anyway especially i suspect if subjected to excess bavk pressure and also probably lose efficiency due to crud build up

[cutlass]

what is it - "packet of dried rice"??? for washing cooling sistem i use "citric acid"

[Bob]

Haydn Alarms:

http://www.coolantalarm.co.uk/shop/index.php

Cheaper Chinese copies on flea bay, but you get what you pay for.

[cutlass]

most of all - "chines copy" now...
for next- use "as filter" women's stocking when you clean cooling sistem....

[haydn callow]

Hi, you seem to be doing all the right things and making progress.....if your coolant alarm is one of ours. (A small solid black cube) it should not sound just because the coolant is sloshing around.....for a start the tank is partitioned inside so cannot really slosh....also our alarm has a short delay built in to prevent false alarms.....if you are on the FULL line when cold you should be o.k.

[haydn callow]

Oi,,,, where’s my avatar gone???

[cutlass]

I install second temp sensor into head - at back, near number 4 cilinder - now arrow work right -stay at 2 o-clock and immediately go right at "stopzone" when engine is hot !

[haydn callow]

The sensor on the back of the head is nothing to do with the low coolant alarm....it’s for a temp gauge.....if you have filled with new red coolant the alarm may start playing up as red coolant often coats the screw......just clean the screw if that happens and after a very few weeks it will stop coating the screw.

[haydn callow]

Just the 1 screw in the tank is all that’s required

[cutlass]

on my bongo i some year ago delete EGR.....check glow plug -unscrew and connect it at starter battery...i use HKT JPX60

[cutlass]

plonkatronix-i dont may talk in private - i block from my provider ......- for next - [email protected]