Bongo Fury

Both are dampers, funnily enough I dont seem to have the box one on Wasp?

Don't forget to grease the nipple when you are down there.

Bongolia wrote:Both are dampers, funnily enough I dont seem to have the box one on Wasp?

Is the wasp 4 wd as mine is ?
Having too much time on my hands I was wondering as its 4wd could I remove the prop feeding the rear axle and drive the bus , if ,when I left off the noise had gone then it must be the prop shaft or will this do harm to the poor bus
To do this I'd be bringing the bus up to about 60 mph and then lifting off .
Thanks
Brian

Merlot man wrote:

Bongolia wrote:Both are dampers, funnily enough I dont seem to have the box one on Wasp?

Is the wasp 4 wd as mine is ?
Having too much time on my hands I was wondering as its 4wd could I remove the prop feeding the rear axle and drive the bus , if ,when I left off the noise had gone then it must be the prop shaft or will this do harm to the poor bus
To do this I'd be bringing the bus up to about 60 mph and then lifting off .
Thanks
Brian

Yes 4WD.
Quick think on it and I cannot see why not for a short time maybe but I would wait for someone else on here who may be able to answer that one.

the bongo is firstly rear wheel drive, then as the rear slip is detected power is fed to the front prop via the viscus coupling, if you remove the rear prop the viscus coupling would be permanently locked up and giving drive to the front, it is a series of plates like clutches that run in oil, when the oil warms through slippage it locks up the plates and gives drive, its also connected via a drive chain. it isnt designed to give full time drive just to help out when rear slip is detected so although it may work for a while my bet is it would last long.

27-580 on this drawing is the viscus coupling with the plates inside.

http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... o=.html#18

Northern Bongolow wrote:the bongo is firstly rear wheel drive, then as the rear slip is detected power is fed to the front prop via the viscus coupling, if you remove the rear prop the viscus coupling would be permanently locked up and giving drive to the front, it is a series of plates like clutches that run in oil, when the oil warms through slippage it locks up the plates and gives drive, its also connected via a drive chain. it isnt designed to give full time drive just to help out when rear slip is detected so although it may work for a while my bet is it would last long.

27-580 on this drawing is the viscus coupling with the plates inside.

http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... o=.html#18

Thanks for the great reply NB , it answers my question !
I've been away for the last couple of days but I'll have another look at it tomorrow and try to get a mechanic to give his views but it's looking like what you said ,prop shaft .
On another note I assume that it's not possible to service the transfer box IE replace the oil ?
Thanks again
Brian

Drain plug ?
https://goo.gl/photos/8rxgnftYN2DsxuxQ6
Not sure of grade probably 80-90 although some use a special oil e.g. Honda.

as bongolia states there is a drain and fill plug. 17-121 is the drain plug on this drawing. 99511-1800 is the fill plug.
i did mine years ago, i think its the same as the manual gearbox oil as mine was a manual box but its been a while so check first.

http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... no=.html#2.

shows the harmonic damper too, referred to in another thread.

Hello all and thanks for posting those last few bongoila and NB .
I've taken inspiration from the posts and have changed the oil this evening !
What came out was very black and very little , about 300ml . I filled it up with approximately 1400/1500 ml so that bit is ok wheather it has done any big damage or not we will see .
It got me thinking if this is my clunking noise ? I'll bring her for a test drive tomorrow as I can find very little play in the rear prop shaft
I'll update when I know more and thank you both for tour help .
Brian

Well that's a lot to loose well over a ltr. There shouldn't be any loss as it doesn't burn it like an engine would. Would be worth having butchers under there after the run to see if you have any leaks.

there is a breather vent on top of the diff,dont block it with that gunk or you will be blowing some seals in the axle

good point, there is a breather on the top of the transfer case too, and the manual gearbox and front diff. there is a grease nipple only on the 4 wheel drive rear shaft, not on the 2 wheel drive rear prop.

if the rear prop checks out ok then the clunking may be the splined shaft/transfer case junction on the front prop, unfortunately there isnt a lot you can do about it, the splines on the front prop can wear which can be swapped but the receiver spline in the transfer case is a bit more of a bugger to swap. try gabbing the front prop and rotating back and forth.

Hello everyone and sorry for not checking in for a few days .
I did a big days work today including fitting two new front anti roll bar D bushes , two new lower wish bones and changing the oil in the front diff .
I looked again at the prop shafts and while I'm NO expert there was little play in them to be fair , so looked at the gear box harmonic balancer which looked and felt very loose as in the rubber bit easily hitting the its heavy gauge steel frame with very little effort and making a clunking noise So I wedged it using some old sound insulting Matt from one of the old mx5's , drove it and what do you know on clunking , I haven't taken it out yet to see it the noise returns but it's looking good at the minute
While I was down there I noticed that the power steering rack Is leaking so I'm going to heave to attend to that .
What are people's views/ experience of using Lucas power steering stop leak as it would be cheaper and easier than changing the rack , either way I'll be replacing the PS fluid so any hints on this job IE where to drain the fluid from and is the any tricks to bleeding the system afterwards ?
As always I appreciate every and all advice
Thanks
Brian

Sounds like a really useful days work. Do you have to do tracking after wishbones? I think i've read people on here getting good results with the Lucas powerstop stuff. Have you had a search on here and/or on google. Is there much to be lost by giving it a go?

Thanks for the reply Mike .
Your correct in that there is little to be lost by doing it I'm gussing ,I'm really just interested on peoples views on the product .
As for the bleeding I'm assuming to loosen /crack off the lowest point on the system ,the rack ? and turn the steering wheel left and right to purge the old fluid from the rack ?
Filling and bleeding then is fill , run the engine and move the steering lift and right to fill the rack and bleed the full system , do I have this about right ?
Thanks in advance
Brian