Re: negative or positive ground connection on bongo ?
Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 12:27 pm
Hi
Whilst I said that the "buzz" was that it was a mass change-over of the earthing system to stop rusting, that was always known to be an issue of standardisation in order to comply with certain export markets and make manufacturing more of a global standard. The earthing issue was always know to be a "blind". Positive/ negative earthing makes not a jot of difference, either in electrical systems or from a rust point of view. In the 50's , and carrying into the 60's to a certain degree, sacrificial anodes were often placed on cars chassis at known corrosion points, so that the anode, or plate corroded in preference to the bodywork....did it work???......NAH....not a chance. It's how you look after a vehicle that makes a difference, Only ever let a car air dry when wet- never put a wet car in a garage...they rust from inside out. Use a tried and tested wax injection system EVERYWHERE....Dinitrol have been around the longest, use an epoxy chassis and underbody treatment on cleaned and stripped underside....etc. Result: it'll still rust....cars flex, coatings crack (whatever the manufacturers claim), and the only way to check is twice a year underseal check!
Boats still use sacrificial anodes on steel-hulled barges....we've looked at 30-40 metre live-aboards for many a year...and you have them dry-docked every few years for inspection....the fact is, it can work on boats, as there is a lot of oxygen in the canal / river systems due to movement , and oxygen+ water+ steel = rust.....and rivetted or welded hulls need an awful lot of attention. Whilst the anodes work to a certain extent, there is absolutely no magic cure for rust
Back to Bongos...every single one has rust...it's a case of finding out where, and cleaning it up before it creeps, and I'm afraid it's a time-consuming pass-time that is worth every moment...and repeatedly renewing the treatment every couple of years!
Cheers
Helen
Whilst I said that the "buzz" was that it was a mass change-over of the earthing system to stop rusting, that was always known to be an issue of standardisation in order to comply with certain export markets and make manufacturing more of a global standard. The earthing issue was always know to be a "blind". Positive/ negative earthing makes not a jot of difference, either in electrical systems or from a rust point of view. In the 50's , and carrying into the 60's to a certain degree, sacrificial anodes were often placed on cars chassis at known corrosion points, so that the anode, or plate corroded in preference to the bodywork....did it work???......NAH....not a chance. It's how you look after a vehicle that makes a difference, Only ever let a car air dry when wet- never put a wet car in a garage...they rust from inside out. Use a tried and tested wax injection system EVERYWHERE....Dinitrol have been around the longest, use an epoxy chassis and underbody treatment on cleaned and stripped underside....etc. Result: it'll still rust....cars flex, coatings crack (whatever the manufacturers claim), and the only way to check is twice a year underseal check!
Boats still use sacrificial anodes on steel-hulled barges....we've looked at 30-40 metre live-aboards for many a year...and you have them dry-docked every few years for inspection....the fact is, it can work on boats, as there is a lot of oxygen in the canal / river systems due to movement , and oxygen+ water+ steel = rust.....and rivetted or welded hulls need an awful lot of attention. Whilst the anodes work to a certain extent, there is absolutely no magic cure for rust
Back to Bongos...every single one has rust...it's a case of finding out where, and cleaning it up before it creeps, and I'm afraid it's a time-consuming pass-time that is worth every moment...and repeatedly renewing the treatment every couple of years!
Cheers
Helen