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Re: Fitting a car alarm - Help Needed Please
Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 10:53 pm
by thedogsbollox
Right, that has enlightened me alot.
The alarm unit has 2 wires coming from it marked Immobiliser output N/O and imobiliser output N/C
So going on the assumption that i want the coil in the relay using power when i am driving and not using power when i am parked up.......as it sometimes stands for weeks without being used........
Which one is supplied with power when the alarm is off?
There is also 2 wires for the hazzard lights one is Hazzard lights output(+/- built in relay)This is what i have connected to what Julian says, and the other is To Ground or +12v depending on the polarity of the previous one.
I assume that the later needs connecting to a live in order to feed the circuit to the hazzards.
If i connect a live feed to the multiplug where the hazzard lights output is will i then learn if this just goes straight to the bulbs or goes through the blinker unit first?
Should the immobiliser relay be connected to the starter circuit or to whatever circuit that tells the pump to work?
I have just worked out why all the settings on the alarm are set to disabled by default. it is so you can switch one on at a time and test it aint it?
Re: Fitting a car alarm - Help Needed Please
Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 11:57 pm
by thedogsbollox
dave_aber wrote:Well done with the progress. However you appear to have forgotten to post the photos you took of the process, and the finished mains inlet.....
HTH
I did take one piccy omn my phone but having probs getting it from there to photobucket.
Will try to take more of the full installation and post up later
Re: Fitting a car alarm - Help Needed Please
Posted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 9:21 am
by 321Away
is this an Ebay alarm? by that i mean cheap chinese made? Not that i'm saying they're not decent quality as i personally have 1 fitted to my BMW as it gives loads of functions, like roof open/close, remote start,pager etc.
Ask as you said that 1 of the hazard wires splits into 2? i've only ever seen that on this type of alarm? always thought the split was to power a siren?
The immobiliser circuit is up to you, being an auto, its not like they can bump start it easily! there are numerous circuits that can take out a bongo's running ability, its up to you to find which you want to use.
from what you describe with the hazard wiring, it sounds like its a pulsed relay? if you only have 1 output you cant connect it to both indicator wires at the same time, without using a diode. you can however use it to activate the hazard signal, this is done at the relay (drivers kick panel) white relay that clicks when hazards are going, green with red stripe, needs to be grounded, so in your case you'd attach the output to that wire and the other to ground. that said, the hazards need a constant ground, not a pulse?
What relay is it? 4 or 5 pin?
Julian
Re: Fitting a car alarm - Help Needed Please
Posted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 10:03 am
by thedogsbollox
Theconly relay supplied is 5 pin and is for the immobiliser. I think from what you told
me earlier there is a common, no, nc, feed for coil and earth for coil.
If you are asking about the relay related to the hazzard wiring the (built in relay) is what is written in the book.
Re: Fitting a car alarm - Help Needed Please
Posted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 6:18 pm
by thedogsbollox
Didn't get much done today.
Re-routed some cabling for the towbar and re-routed the foglight cable as it was running over the top of the engine cover. It now runs through the drivers kick panel thru the step over beside the seat and through the side to the rear light cluster.
Fitted a proper foglight switch too.
Getting a bit wary of the alarm install so it has ground to a hault. Was going to fit the ultrasonics and the door actuator today but the heat got to me.
Re: Fitting a car alarm - Help Needed Please
Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 6:08 pm
by Dodgey
Thankyou , thankyou. You just saved me hours of searching for the correct cables!
321Away wrote:easiest way i've found for the door swtches is..
1.remove the tailgate light and pull out the loom a bit, find the turquoisey-green wire with red stripe.
2.pull out the lower trim (where the rear 12v socket is) and locate the loom, split it where it goes vertical and find a red with geen stripe.
3.feed a wire down through the rear light socket and join the 2 previously mentioned wires, this effectively means either side or rear door can switch on both lights.
(If you have a rear type kitchen fitted, you can locate the red/green wire by removing the upper rear trim and pulling down the roof lining, but thats a bit more tricky)
4.In the front of the car, remove the drivers side kick panel, bit of light might help here, look at the furthest (forward, towards front of vehicle) big white connector, pull back some of the tape where the loom drops down and you'll find a red with white stripe, this is the trigger for both front doors.
5.Here's the tricky bit! using your torch shine it upwards and about 6 inches above the big white connector,you'll see a small (usually opaque) connector with about 6 or so wires going through it, one of those is a red with green stripe, that, you guessed it, runs the entire length of the vehilce to the back, where you joined the tailgate trigger, join that to the lower red/white/alarm trigger and you now have all your doors connected,so any door opening will trigger any light in the vehilce set to door.
for indicators, remove the drivers knee panel (should already be out), look in the gap and to the right of the steering wheel you should see a white connector, with a loom looping under the steering column, drop this down and pull the connector apart, using the 'rear' part of the connector, split the loom and locate 2 thinner than the rest wires, should be black with blue trace and blue with green trace, these are your indicator wires.
IF you dont have that connector, then you can also pick up the indicator wires again behind the drivers kick panel, white connector nearest you, green with white trace and green with black trace, you wont need diodes on any of these points.
Most alarm manufacturers learnt by the mistakes of the likes of Toad/Laserline etc and now their indicator wiring 'floats' instead of being grounded so the alarm units can no longer be attacked by that method, pretty much negating the need for diodes in that context.
Hope that makes sense lol
julian