Bongo Fury

stilldesperate wrote:Good point, dandeman. A permanent live will flash all the time, which is distracting at night if it's in your line-of-sight.

Easiest is to place the LED where you can't see it, but I'm liking the Aldi (?) cheap radio idea!

SD

Already replaced the Jap radio so that idea is out of the window so that's why I was thinking of the dummy untill I get my alarm system installed.

I will make fitting enquirys with Maplin they should know I hope

Cheers

Duncan

dandemann8 wrote:

hembramacho wrote:Why don't you just fit an alarm/immobiliser. You get a visual deterrant, plus an audible alarm and even if that isn't enough, the immobiliser means it aint going anywhere. Plus anyone on this forum now knows that your flashing LED is just a dummy!

Andrew

Yes this is just a temp measure untill I can get my alarm/immobilisor fitted.

Fair enough. If you're looking for an alarm/immobilser system I've just booked mine in to have one of these fitted:

http://www.gasure.co.uk/predator.htm

Not happening til early Jan (earliest he could get me booked in) but will feedback if you like.

Andrew

g8dhe wrote:

dandemann8 wrote:I take it when I find the permanent live and all is wired up right it will only flash when the ignition is off

Nope a permanent live will mean it will flash all the time! I don't think that there is a line available that only goes to 12 volts when the ignition is off either. You might be better wiring the Flashing LED across the actual Ignition switch, the few milliamps it draws is unlikely to affect anything else. Which vehicle and year do you have, I'll check the diagrams ?

1999 AFT V6 New Shape

Cheers

Duncan

hembramacho wrote:

dandemann8 wrote:

hembramacho wrote:Why don't you just fit an alarm/immobiliser. You get a visual deterrant, plus an audible alarm and even if that isn't enough, the immobiliser means it aint going anywhere. Plus anyone on this forum now knows that your flashing LED is just a dummy!

Andrew

Yes this is just a temp measure untill I can get my alarm/immobilisor fitted.

Fair enough. If you're looking for an alarm/immobilser system I've just booked mine in to have one of these fitted:

http://www.gasure.co.uk/predator.htm

Not happening til early Jan (earliest he could get me booked in) but will feedback if you like.

Andrew

Hi Andrew, what sort of price if you don't mind me asking and is it a Thatcham

Cheers

Duncan

dandemann8 wrote: Hi Andrew, what sort of price if you don't mind me asking and is it a Thatcham

Cheers

Duncan

£120 + VAT fitted. For that you get loads of gizmos, including 2 replacement key fobs to operate the current central locking and to arm the alarm/immobiliser and also this cool sounding utrasonic sensor thing that even if the window is open and someone puts their arm in (or breaks in through the boot as the sensor is at the front of the car) it will be detected! Also sensor shocks so if anyone just so much as leans on the bongo a couple of bleeps will put them off. Anymore and it's all bells and whistles! The guy that's fitting it gave me a demo and it looks and sounds like the muts nuts. Thatcham - not sure. It says on their website that a Falcon Predator MK1 is a Category 1 and this alarm is more expensive, but rather than save a few quid off my insurance, which isn't that much anyway, I'm looking for a reasonably priced alarm/immobiliaser system that basically tells wouldbe crims to go away and try something else. This seems to fit the bill perfectly!
Hope that helps.

Andrew

dandemann8 wrote:

g8dhe wrote:

dandemann8 wrote:Which vehicle and year do you have, I'll check the diagrams ?

1999 AFT V6 New Shape

Oh the club doesn't have that manual we only have the 1995 - 1997 to Jan 1999 copies.
I very much doubt that the wiring is significantly different if you use one of these from Maplin click the image for the page, these will work from 3.5v to 14v, and as it will only be working when the engine is off, then you should just about be OK, but I wouldn't want to guarantee it working for many years.

and then wire the LONGER lead (Anode) to the permanent +12 volt supply and the SHORTER (Cathode) to the ignition switched supply, these are best picked up on the back of the fuse panel by the drivers right knee, drop it down by unscrewing the two (?) screws, Fuse 1 is the +12 Volt permanent and Fuse 8 is a switched supply, make sure you pick up the FUSED side and not the top row of connections as they are the unfused side!

Hi,
I think that you will find that the person that steals your vehicle is not a DUMMY, but a very apt car thief.

g8dhe wrote: these will work from 3.5v to 14v, and as it will only be working when the engine is off, then you should just about be OK, but I wouldn't want to guarantee it working for many years.

Have I missed something here, g8dhe? How will it be wired with the engine off
(serious question, I'm wondering if you've found an easy way to do this).

Thanks, SD.

Its wired in parallel with the Accessory switch, so that when the switch is open (off) then the LED connects across the switch - the small current it draws about 20-25millamps, flows thru the the rest of the cars circuits, such a small current is unlikely to cause any problems. When the Ignition switch is turned ON then it short circuits the LED so no current flowing thru it and it won't flash.

I used to wire these up all the time. All you need to do is wire the positive side of the LED to a permanent live feed and the negative side to an ignition feed. With the ignition switched on the voltage willl be the same both side of the diode so no current will flow hence it will not flash. When you switch the ignition off the ignition side will drop to zero volts, current will flow through the diode and it will flash.

Simples!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DUMMY-CAR-ALARM-R ... 5d26ffa25a

yip i've done that before by using the wiring at the ign switch, so when u key off the led goes on withoot the need for a switch and usually the led was positioned on the top of the steering column shroud .


cheers stevie

Hi
Interesting...I have an alarm, but the LED has packed up....is there a high-visibility one I can wire in...not sure on the output voltage...I did have the specifications somewhere....obviously in a safe place (I can't find them )...any help appreciated
Thanks in advance
Cheers
Helen

Are you certain that the LED itself has failed ? They are normally exceedingly reliable, but if it has provided you replace it with a similar colour (the voltage varies with colour) then it will normally work OK.

Hi
Thanks for that information....it has failed before...don't know why..a Red one....strange, as I see Maplins have a range of colours, and all the same voltage....what about high visibility...is it likely that I could get away with one...I only use the Bongo in the day, and when it was working, you could hardly see it ...that's how I never noticed it was not working
Cheers
Helen

Are you talking about Flashing LED's or normal LED's? Flashing LED's will have a similar voltage range as the chip that causes it to flash will regulate the voltage down to that required, but normal straight LEDs don't as the voltage varies with the Bandgap that defines the colour see here on Wikipedia see halfway down the page.

The brightness is mainly defined by the current that flows thru the LED, and that will either be controlled by a resistor in the unit or in with a Flashing LED by the chip as well, in which case you can probably fit any Flashing LED you like.