0400, 1228 & the EGR

[costas]

Hi Guys,


2002 2.5td. Winter Pack.
0400 and 1228 error codes after 10-25 minutes driving.


Following on the help I received regarding the error codes viewtopic.php?f=3&t=77009 (Thanks guys!), I've read and reread a number of the members factsheets and it seems appropriate to start a new thread for to ask for help in actually resolving the errors.

Having armed myself with the information in the factsheets and numerous other posts in this forum I decided to brave Ciara and try and make some progress. Please bear in mind that I'm not that well versed with mechanics and didn't even know what an EGR was until I read the factsheet! Even so, thought I'd crack on all the same!

Reading the information in the wastegate fact sheet, I've opted to go for the solution that the Russian owners club offered. so here come my questions...

1. As I understand the possible solution I'm trying, it involves blanking the EGR (aware of the MOT & NO consequences) with a coin, is my understanding correct? If not, you may want to stop reading........

2. Is this the EGR pipe to the valve the one circled in this picture?


3. and would this be the EGR Valve?


4. Lacking the correct currency I've picked up an ebay special, however due to an odd insert on one end of the pipe shown below) I'll have to remove the pipe and put the blanking plates in, unless someone can point me in the direction of some plates that will sit in the 'hole and accommodate this? Allans Vehicles don't appear to sell plates anymore and suggest cleaning the EGR valve.


5. What I believe to be an EGR pipe when removed had a load of crud at one end, is this normal?


6. I've read mixed comments on the EGR vacuum pipe, do I need to do anything with it if I remove the metal pipe pictured previously or can I leave it as it is?

7. I expected the pipe removal to be tough but it was actually very very easy, the bolts came off very easily, I did WD40 the night before. This and the 'crud' make me wonder if I should take the valve off, clean and reassemble with new gaskets. Would this be a better option than blanking?

Think that’s it for now, sorry for the long post but my wife is talking about cutting our losses and getting an Elgrand

[Northern Bongolow]

My thoughts on blanking, for what they are worth, is. Blank it off at the dirty side, at the exhaust end, if you blank off at the inlet manifold end the egr is still in the loop, the egr has a position sensor on it that communicates with the ECU, if the egr sends errors to the ECU because it's stuck it will chuck up warning lights and possibly cause engine faults etc. If you blank the exhaust side the egr should once cleaned out continue to work correctly as it remains clean inside.
Maybe.

[Rhondda boy]

Hi everyone,

I’ve had my 2001 2.5 diesel since 2015 it was purchased from Jal. We’ve had no problems at all with it until a few months ago then the dreaded flashing glow plug light appeared managed to codes 1228 & 0400. At the moment checking solenoids and vacuume pipes under the passenger seat using a multimeter and vacuume pump all seems ok this side, will move to drivers side shortly. I intend to clean the egr valve but I seem to be confused how many valves are there one or two, lush products show there are two is this correct.

[costas]

Thanks for your comment Bongolow, everything welcome at this point!

Sorry to hear Rhonda. While I can't answer your question, if you look at the photo above (assuming it is the EGR valve!) there is something below it, slightly hidden that looks suspiciously like the one above. Please let us know how you get on, I'll do the same.

[Bongofamily]

I have the same problem and codes , there are definitely two EGR valves on the newer diesels. I have mine booked into the garage next week and I will let you know if/how they fix it.

Interestingly when my glow light starts flashing I don’t think the van enters limp mode... it seems to perform the same.

[costas]

Thanks for letting us know, good luck! It might be worthwhile taking the wastegate sheet from the members area with you?

As questionable as it is, I’ve blanked off both ends of the pipe. She’s happily idled on the drive for about 40 minutes now. A little longer and I’ll reassemble and try a drive tomorrow evening. Unless someone comes along and tells me I’m a damn fool/need to make more changes.

Edit: the error codes returned after about an hour of idling. I’ve either not done it properly, not done it fully or I’m barking up the wrong tree.

[rita]

I dont understand why people want to blank of the EGR function, why not get it serviced and the Inlet manifold cleaned out.This service probably has not been carried out for years. It will save you a few pounds in the long run.

[costas]

I don’t want to blank off the egr, I want to overcome the errors and have a usable van again.

I’ll happily get it booked in if I can have confidence that cleaning out the inlet manifold will resolve the issues but I can’t afford that expense should I still find myself with the errors.

[Rhondda boy]

Hi everyone,
A lot garages are reluctant to take on this fault on bongo’s, I would assume that a competent mechanic with a little auto electric experience would be able to solve this irritating problem. I wonder if there are any alternatives to this type of vacuum setup?
Well onward and upward, I intend to persevere with the driver side solenoids and vacuume pipes if I can’t find the problem then I think a visit to Allen’s or 321 away may be on the cards. I’ll keep everyone posted.

Good Iuck all

[Rhondda boy]

Hi all,
Just a thought assuming the problem is a solenoid overheating where do we get the replacements from, I can’t find them on line the serial numbers match but they don’t look the same.

[Ian]

AVA can get hold of them, but not listed on their website at www.mazdabongo.com. Give them a ring on 01234 480808 and ask for Chris or Andy.

[costas]

Today I’ve removed both egr valves and cleaned, I wouldn’t say they were too dirty. Also cleaned out the section that split the gas into the two valves.

First run with the pipe and valves in place: 0400 and 1228.

When cooled I removed the pipe and only blanked off the exhaust(?) end leaving the valves clear: 0400 and 1228.

Engine warmed up much quicker this time but I’m sure that’s down to ambient temperature. Unsurprisingly, the errors occurred much quicker also.

[mikeonb4c]

I dont understand why people want to blank of the EGR function, why not get it serviced and the Inlet manifold cleaned out.This service probably has not been carried out for years. It will save you a few pounds in the long run.

Know what you mean Rita. Strange thing is my unmodified 95 diesel is now a quarter of a century old and (touch wood) running as well as ever. Do egr actually even NEED servicing, would be my question, based on my personal experience.

Any thoughts on what tree the OP should go sniffing around, based on your Bongo knowledge?

[costas]

I may have taken a baby step forward and thought I’d share should it prove to be a resolution but I’ll let you know how it goes.

A few comments left on my sos on Facebook prompted my actions.

I believe the vertical rod in the pictures above opens the turbo vanes. When cold, I moved this rod up and down quite a few times. Started her up and continued to move the rod up and down every 10 minutes or so. When manually moved the action was quite smooth.

I stopped the manual agitating and started revving the engine and noticed that the movement of the rod (sorry, don’t know what else to call it!) when moving with the revs the action was far from smooth.

Left her idling alone for about an hour with no errors. Headed out for a drive up and down the mountain for an hour with no errors.

A couple of comments from others on Facebook that may help or you may not agree with:

Variable vein turbos don’t like supermarket fuel (I’m aware that she has almost only had Sainsbury’s fuel since she was imported). Supermarket fuel and low revs may result in the veins getting gummed up and the turbo can’t alternate between high and low boost. ECU detects this and shuts down the vacuum solenoid, hence limp home mode.

Goes on to mention looking at a video on YouTube about seat cupra mr muscle turbo clean and only running her on v power or ultimate.

Without getting into the risks of Mr muscle, it seems that I might have something to speak to my very very good but not Bongo specialist, mechanic about.

If the chaps who replied on Facebook are on here, I hope you don’t mind that I shared your advice.

[Rhondda boy]

Hi all,
Just would like to make a comment regarding Sainsbury fuel I wonder if this is my problem in the number of years we’ve had our van she’s solely been running on sainsbury fuel. No update on my problem at the moment.