Coolant change

[TheLongRoad]

Which is the best hose to remove to ensure all coolant drained out of 2.0 ltr petrol Bongo? I took the rear heater hose off as this appears to be the lowest point in system. However, I’m only getting 9.5 litres out and wonder where the other 3.5 is hiding. I’m changing the anti freeze so want to be sure I’m not mixing it. Cheers

[TheLongRoad]

Ah - to answer my own question, there is a drain on the radiator and another under the engine (called ‘upper pipe drain plug’ on pp79 of manual. Doh!

[TheLongRoad]

Mmmm. not seeing that other drain plug. This is the manual https://photos.app.goo.gl/ednpB6YNU9mccShh8
And I think the lowest part would be the large bottom engine hose - here
https://photos.app.goo.gl/khbSwaGkitQEuV2A6
Thoughts?

[nth]

not sure about the 2.0 petrol but on the diesel there is a drain screw on the very bottom of the radiator (drivers side from memory).
The other upper one, well I never knew what that was for until now, I recently changed this metal pipe & saw the little blanking cap & couldn't work out what it was possibly used for. Why would they put a drain point on the upper hose?

[TheLongRoad]

It does seem an odd place to have a drain screw as it doesn't appear to be at the lowest point in the system.

[TheLongRoad]

Thanks plonkatronics. Was trying not to disturb too much, have done rad drain and rear heater, now going at the engine bottom hose.

[Bonneville]

Bottom hose at engine end for this old-schooler. Don't think I got it all out but enough for the job.

Filled rear matrix first through inlet manifold hose then put the rest in the tank.

Bled using the little hose on hot side of thermostat.

[TheLongRoad]

Thanks Bonneville. That's what I was thinking. I've flushed the system twice and it's getting to be nice and clear when I drain it. To be fair, ithe old coolant wasn't that bad - it wasn't nasty rusty coloured. Only changing because the steel pipes were just about rusted through and the rear heater was starting to leak (have done away with that as we don't use it).

[Bonneville]

Was it the main steel pipes that you changed? I bought the drivers side one from a place advertising it as 'all models' then found out the original has a smaller steel pipe welded to it so had to Dremel that off and strap it to the new one.

[TheLongRoad]

It was the rear heater pipe with the T piece.

[Bonneville]

I'd use Norma clips if the pipes are old. Or better still, replace the pipes.



Norma is on left and did a better job of holding the leak than new standard spring clip. Those things are all about assembly speed and cost. Perfect if everything is new or in good condition, less so if it's crusty.

[Bonneville]

That one is a quick-release hose clip. Works a bit like a suitcase latch.

You are correct about Norma clips, they are wider and also have a curled lip so they don't bite into the rubber like Jubilee or spring types.

[TheLongRoad]

I use these as recommended by a forum member and mentioned in the 'top tips'. https://www.hcl-clamping.co.uk/mikalor- ... tml?cid=33 They seem to be a cross between a worm drive and constant tension which works well when you have temperature changes - it is said to keep a constant pressure. Seem good quality and reasonable cost.

[helen&tony]

Hi
I'm going on to these https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/Ho ... enT45.html as and when the Mazda originals need replacing ...they are used in marine applications where there can be frequent temperature differences
Cheers
Helen