Air Con Tensioner pulley

[Dan_Will]

Hi all, just fitted new belts, reconditioned alternator and a new battery and I have 2 questions if somebody would be so kind as to offer an answer...

Firstly my Bongo has 2 starter batteries (Northern Japan version) with a split relay from main to the second one. I have only replaced the main battery but the 2nd one isn't holding a charge so am I ok to remove it until I get round to getting a replacement for it? I don't want it suckling all power from new battery or overloading the alternator.

And secondly while removing the aircon belt pulley to investigate the bearing (something is squeaking) the assembly fell apart and I am not sure in which order the pieces go back together. I have the nut, a collar and a 3-4 mm spacer. I have put it back as I thought it might go but when touching the pulley when running it's red hot straight after starting so I'm assuming it's in the wrong order. From left to right as you look down at the pulley from passengers seat I have the nut then collar then spacer before it sits against the bracket.

Is the spacer meant to go between the pulley and bracket?

Any help greatly appreciated! !

Thanks Dan

[rita]

Presuming we are talking about vehicle with Diesel Engine.

Yes its nut/pulley/washer (dust cover) then spacer against sliding bracket.

Re the batteries is it possible that the system has been adapted to use the second starter battery as a Leisure battery hence the split charge relay.

Is the Second battery actually receiving a charge through the relay??



Good Luck.

[Bob]

Should be ok to remove the knacked battery but insulate the live connector so it can't touch anything, or just disconect the earth and tie it back.

[Dan_Will]

Thanks both. Pulley is sorted

Yes it's a 2.5 diesel.

I've reconnected the 2nd battery as with it off the glow plug light was flashing.. no issue now it's back on and it is receiving a charge so I'll see how we go.

[cmm303]

Strange that the glow plug light comes on with the second battery (leisure battery?) disconnected. Though the conventional 4 circuits that are transferred to the LB include the ECU back up power feed, disconnecting my LB has never caused the glow plug light to flash. Wondering if there is another problem lurking, or could this be a difference between an old Bongo (mine) and a newer fly-by-wire one (post 99)?

[Roger1950]

Hi
My glow plug light also flashes on when I disconnect my LB. I've been trying to track down an ABS warning light (separate thread) and have found all kinds of redundant (?) wiring winding its way around. I'm interested in your comment that the ECU backup power is normally transferred to the LB - on mine at present it's only the interior lights and window blinds that are on the LB - everything else appears to be on the SB. The LB feed has been taken via 3 fuses to the front of the drivers side fuse box. The 3 fuses have been removed and the LB feeds plugged into the consumer side of the fuse holder. TBH, it looks a bit mickey-mouse to me but I've left it up until now because I don't want to bring everything to a standstill. But I'd be interested to know if this is the "normal" way to transfer consumers to the LB?
Roger

[Dan_Will]

I have a new issue.... the aux belts are squealing really loud when tensioned to 10-15mm play, when slackened off they are silent? I put new heavy duties ones on as I thought maybe the other ones I bought were cheap ones. But still squealing!! I have fitted 13x1100 gates v belt extra service. Any ideas?

[windywatson]

Can see no reason whatsoever that a liesure battery should have any of the vehicles essential circuits transfered accross like ECU back up or anything that would make the glow plug light flash. The LB should be stand alone, suppling only the equipment installed for the liesure equipment inastalled. However it is not unusual to transfer Blinds, interior lights, Radio etc across as it is more convienient than risking flatening the SB & does mean that they work whilst ignition is off. It is also common to remove the fuses for these items that you want to work from the LB and supply the 12v via the load side of the fuse as an easy work around. In fact there are kits to do just this using this method.
I wonder if these are vehicle with additional SB for cold climate & Mazda have connected other circuits to the second battery. And the converters have been lazy & just piggy backed the liesure items straight onto the second SB or just assumed it's LB because it isunusual to have 2 SB's on regular UK vehicles. Hence why you have problems when removing the battery.

Cheers

[Dan_Will]

And now I've noticed the pulley on the alternator is red hot to touch after a short time running. Could this be because the belts are too tight or loose?

[Bongolia]

And now I've noticed the pulley on the alternator is red hot to touch after a short time running. Could this be because the belts are too tight or loose?

Try removing the belts and turning the alternator pulley by hand , is there any roughness or resistance when turning?
Is the belt adjuster pulley rough or stiff?
Are there two belts on that pulley?

[Dan_Will]

No resistance when turning by hand and I don't know if there is a belt adjuster pulley? Just 3 pulleys, top of engine 2 belts bottom of engine 3 belts (Inc air con belt ) and then alternator pulley.... I've loosened it and it has stopped squealing and seems less hot.

Would it make a difference what voltage the battery was at? As it was at 12.63 and not over 14 so maybe the alternator is working less hard now?

[g8dhe]

When you transfer across the standard 4 circuits from the SB to the LB it includes the permanent powered items because the Internal lighting circuits are on that circuit. This circuit also includes the ECU backup, Radio backup, Central locking power and a few other circuits. Unless your prepared to break down the wiring looms (don' think about even!) then those circuits will also now be powered from the LB. Hence you can expect to see a small drain of around 50-100mA depending on just what is fitted. Anything above 50-100mA then I would suggest measuring and understanding just what is drawing the power so that you are aware of what load is being placed on the LB 24/7! The currents can sometimes be surprisingly high, people fit things like USB power sockets, Tracker devices, Parking Carcam operation etc. Mine is currently running at a standing load of 0.6Amps going up to 3.1 Amps when the fridge cuts in as well for a minute of so in every 5!

[Roger1950]

Thank you for that clarity Geoff. Earlier in the thread a "kit" was mentioned (for making the "standard" transfer of four circuits) Does the kit include instructions, schematics etc. My point is, I'd like to make sure that my transfer has been implemented correctly. There's another twist to this in my case: I have a solar panel connected to the LB (which keeps up with the fridge drain) but also can raise the LB voltage to 14.1 at times. It occurs to me that this may not be good for the ECU - or maybe it doesn't make any difference? I'm still plugging away at the ABS warning light being on, and trying to eliminate anything, however apparently unrelated, that might be causing it.

[Bongolia]

I dont know if this will help or confuse but if you have a dead,possibly shorting, battery the the alternator would be working much harder to get the thing charged up this would increase the turning resistance (slipping/squeal) and could cause the alternator to over heat and may damage the unit in time.

[g8dhe]

I have a solar panel connected to the LB (which keeps up with the fridge drain) but also can raise the LB voltage to 14.1 at times. It occurs to me that this may not be good for the ECU - or maybe it doesn't make any difference? I'm still plugging away at the ABS warning light being on, and trying to eliminate anything, however apparently unrelated, that might be causing it.

First don't worry about the voltage unless it exceeds 14.5 Volts, vehicle supplies are spoken of as being 12 volts however this is not really true, anything between 11 and 14.5 volts is perfectly OK for a properly designed device for vehicle use (Be aware that some 12 volt devices are NOT designed for mobile use, TV's are the prime example check the specifications carefully!!)
Yes kits are available have a word with TheNewRooster on this forum, he does various combinations depending on what you already have.
The Solar panel doesn't pose any problem either other than making it difficult at times to check the standing current from a battery, either cover it with a black ground sheet or wait for darkness to descend