Water in cylinder 2

[bongovi]

the temp gauge on the dash does not go through the ecu so it wont be that, the wire that goes to the sender top is usually tight as it crosses the rocker cover front from the loom on the passy side to the sender at the front of the head on the drivers side. sometimes the top of the sender comes loose, its just a crappy rivet, try a clean of the connection and check the top isnt wobbling about.
all the temp controlling readings are taken at the fan switch sender above the starter motor driverside on the cylinder head, these are fed to the ecu and control the starter solenoids, egr and the front coolant fans etc. this is known to fracture at the the plastic/brass joint where the plug connects,

Cheers both. Time to get back under the seats.

The old sender did snap when removing from the old head, so that's a new one in there now. Will check the connections throughout today and see if I can't get to the bottom of this!

[bongovi]

Will check the connections throughout today and see if I can't get to the bottom of this!

Just been under and there's nothing I can see that's untoward. The left solenoid raised the revs on startup, dropped when uplugged and raised again when plugged back in. Plugged and unplugged the second, but if I'm not mistaken, my white smoke is more to do with the left/rear-most solenoid for initial startup?

I checked the connections and vac tubes all around. Lots of white smoke again, revs made more of it until, some 20-30secs of 1-2k revs later, it clears.

- Are there any other pointers about what can cause a smokey startup?
- Do I need to check the banjo filter - tried before but couldn't release the hex bolt to get to the spring/filter, not enough space for my tools
- Do I need to check the diaphragm on top of the fuel pump? Would that, or the banjo, make it smokey *only* on start?
- If it was the turbo, wouldn't it be smoking the whole while?

Separately, for the temp gauge, its sensor cable running over the top of the rocker cover is tight and in contact with the cover, but doesn't seem to be damaged on the outside.

[Bongolia]

What sort of mileage have you covered since the head job?
Is the coolant level staying where it should?
Does the smoke smell oily or sweet?
Have you eliminated the turbo potential coolant leak yet?

[bongovi]

What sort of mileage have you covered since the head job?
Is the coolant level staying where it should?
Does the smoke smell oily or sweet?
Have you eliminated the turbo potential coolant leak yet?

- Mileage: around 50-100 miles
- Coolant level is steady, remaining just above full, just on the shelf directly under the cap.
- Smoke smell is more a fuel burnoff type of smell to me
- Not eliminated leak from turbo yet as initially assumed a leak would give white smoke all the time. There is a chance that it could be collecting in the turbo until startup, then not enough can pool up when going along. Although as I said, the coolant level is steady, so doesn't appear to be leaking, unless it's a tiny bit. But it's a lot of smoke for a tiny bit!

[Bongolia]

Checking the turbo as described would eliminate any accumulation.
Once that was done I would be giving it a long continuous run 50-60 miles with a bit of motorway or fast road keeping an eye on coolant and temps of course.
With regard to fluctuating temp gauge, does this rise and fall rapidly but steadily or flick between positions?
If its a steady rise and fall does it occur when accelerating or loading the motor?

Edit
What parts of the cooling system did you change. Hoses, rad etc?

[bongovi]

Checking the turbo as described would eliminate any accumulation.
Once that was done I would be giving it a long continuous run 50-60 miles with a bit of motorway or fast road keeping an eye on coolant and temps of course.
With regard to fluctuating temp gauge, does this rise and fall rapidly but steadily or flick between positions?
If its a steady rise and fall does it occur when accelerating or loading the motor?

Edit
What parts of the cooling system did you change. Hoses, rad etc?

The turbo is next candidate. Will get the clips recommended on order, if I can't borrow any. Is it just the one on top and below, from memory, to clamp off?

The temp gauge actually worked fine this morning, after I'd reseated the contact, so we can call that one partially solved.

In the coolant-system next to nothing was changed. It was all in good working order before the crack in the head, afaik. The 3-way elbow on the pass. side was replaced with a new one. The driver's side, bottom of head, coolant sensor was switched out for a new one. Anything related to the turbo remains the same.

EDIT:

To eliminate the turbo letting by, when the engine is at working temp and smoke cleared, switch off,clamp off the turbo water supply feed and return, allow it to cool down for 10 mins or so,start the engine and idle it for a minute or so, no more then switch off and perform a cold start after block temp has gone cold, best over night. Run it for a couple of minutes have you still the white smoke?

Sounds like you did mean just the two hoses (feed/return).

[Bongolia]

Yes thats them.
If you have a further probs with temp gauge make a mental note of engine load and the rate of rise and fall but I think you may solved that one.

[Northern Bongolow]

it sounds like your coolant level is too high, drop it to the proper level, give a take 5mm, that is on the full line when cool. some ive come accross dont like being over full. this isnt an expansion tank that allows excess in and sucks it back when cooling, its part of the system that is pressurised when running, the level should remain constant within it but the internal pressure rises and falls.

[bongovi]

Yes thats them.
If you have a further probs with temp gauge make a mental note of engine load and the rate of rise and fall but I think you may solved that one.

In the meantime, given that it sounds like it might cut out when starting up, and that I used a manual pump to get fuel into the fuel pump after first replacing the head, I'm now wondering if it isn't fuel starvation caused by me pumping crud through the system manually, or getting air in the lines. Seen starvation and white smoke mentioned on a fair few posts on the forum here.

Number one fix seems to be the banjo filter. I said above that I couldn't get the allen key off, but I did take the main bolt out and put a cotton bud in with pliers, I think all the way in. Hit nothing on the way down. So having just read this:

Didn't even know there was an Allen bolt I just remove the main banjo bolt and dig it out with a cotton bud or, if you're stuck at the Bash, use Kirsty's magnetic screwdriver

I'm starting to think there is no filter in place. I didn't hit a spring either, unless I've missed both. Going to have to take off the bracket, hopefully Um-Bongo has a small enough rotaty angular allen thing to help me get in there.

If there is no filter, at least it's not clogged up. But then what could be? It'd explain the revs clearing the white smoke perhaps. I did take the fuel cap off while starting it up, and there was no in-rush of air that I could hear.

[teenmal]

Yes thats them.
If you have a further probs with temp gauge make a mental note of engine load and the rate of rise and fall but I think you may solved that one.

In the meantime, given that it sounds like it might cut out when starting up, and that I used a manual pump to get fuel into the fuel pump after first replacing the head, I'm now wondering if it isn't fuel starvation caused by me pumping crud through the system manually, or getting air in the lines. Seen starvation and white smoke mentioned on a fair few posts on the forum here.

Number one fix seems to be the banjo filter. I said above that I couldn't get the allen key off, but I did take the main bolt out and put a cotton bud in with pliers, I think all the way in. Hit nothing on the way down. So having just read this:

Didn't even know there was an Allen bolt I just remove the main banjo bolt and dig it out with a cotton bud or, if you're stuck at the Bash, use Kirsty's magnetic screwdriver

I'm starting to think there is no filter in place. I didn't hit a spring either, unless I've missed both. Going to have to take off the bracket, hopefully Um-Bongo has a small enough rotaty angular allen thing to help me get in there.

If there is no filter, at least it's not clogged up. But then what could be? It'd explain the revs clearing the white smoke perhaps. I did take the fuel cap off while starting it up, and there was no in-rush of air that I could hear.

Did you actually cut the suction line and fit a manual pump , if so I would personally remove the pump and reconnect the suction line securely.

I am not a fan of fitting additional pumps on a Diesel suction line, it only masks a problem and can cause further problems..

[bongovi]

I used a manual pump to get fuel into the fuel pump

Did you actually cut the suction line and fit a manual pump , if so I would personally remove the pump and reconnect the suction line securely.

I am not a fan of fitting additional pumps on a Diesel suction line, it only masks a problem and can cause further problems..

It was just a squeegy hand pump, put after the fuel filter before the pump. It was just added between those for 5 minutes as I couldn't get the injectors to 'produce' after everything had been reassembled. Once I'd got the fuel moving through the lines it fired up no trouble. Everything was restored to original, no pumps left in place. All secure.

My point was I might have squeezed through a bunch of particles that clogged something up, or there could still be air in an injector/line somewhere. I'll fish around for that banjo filter again tonight/tomorrow, but I couldn't find one down there when I first looked.

[Northern Bongolow]

there is also a filter in the tank at the bottom of the pick up pipe, you could maybe take off the pipe to the filter from the tank and blow gently back to the tank, thinking a bit more about your initial starting problems, this could be the cause of that.
you may have to manually prime the line again afterwards with your little hand pump

[bongovi]

there is also a filter in the tank at the bottom of the pick up pipe, you could maybe take off the pipe to the filter from the tank and blow gently back to the tank, thinking a bit more about your initial starting problems, this could be the cause of that.
you may have to manually prime the line again afterwards with your little hand pump

Haven't blown back yet because the hand pump was borrowed, so would be stuck if I needed again. Still haven't been able to get at the banjo bracket allen bolt, not with Um-Bongo's smaller tools nor with a new ratchet set I picked up with a bendy bit. But putting thin things down the banjo bolt hole it feels like there's nothing in there anyway. It just bottoms out at 3-4 inches with a metal clink. Someone's maybe chucked it out?

I've had a look at the diaphragm on top of the fuel pump and it had oil in it. I cleaned it up and reassembled, but stupidly adjusted the allen-key screw on top to see if it made a difference to the startup. Now I've been playing with its settings, fully in/out, half way up etc. and can't quite find where it's supposed to be. Are there any standard turn numbers for it out there, or can anyone count off how many threads are showing above the lock nut?!

At the moment I've gone from a flatspot at 30mph (fully out) to never changing up to the top gear (fully in) to a mix of the two in between.

I tried this form Tony X last March:

1. EASY Warm the engine up fully. Loosen the lock-nut on the adjuster on the diaphragm on top of the diesel pump. Have the engine ticking over, turn the screw in slowly until the tick-over speed rises slightly then back it off half a turn. This will improve acceleration pick-up.

But didn't notice any change in tickover at all, not on the rev counter nor by ear.

[Northern Bongolow]

can you not just grab the outside of the allen key nut with a good set of mole grips or similar, doesnt matter if it gets damaged a little you could replace it with a standard hex head etc.

[bongovi]

can you not just grab the outside of the allen key nut with a good set of mole grips or similar, doesnt matter if it gets damaged a little you could replace it with a standard hex head etc.

Tried 2 kinds of Mole grips normal and needle-nose, a small socket set + a flexible extension for a socket. Not flexible enough. Can't get on the thing! Will try an allen key + needle-nose Moles as a last resort next, but as I said before I'm not holding out much hope to find a filter as I poked a cotton bud all the way in on pliers and it hit nothing on the way down.

Attention now turning to glow plugs. A neighbour mentioned the smoke looked blue-ish to them, so a forum search for blue smoke threw up lots of glow-plug related posts. We might have over or under tightened them putting them back in. I have checked rail voltage, seems good. But might need to check tightness on plugs? Or even do a straight replacement. Those and a fuel filter really need looking at, as we're still smoking on start. Got some Redex in there just to see if that'd do anything - nothing yet after 25-odd miles.

Also managed to get the plunger/diaphragm screw to about 'normal' for this Bongo. Still feels like it over-revs/doesn't get into top gear quick enough between 30-50+mph, but I don't know how much difference blanking the EGR would have made either?