Hi
Anyone got a guide to help me get to, and replace, the rocker gasket?
Including removing the bits under the centre console if poss
TIA
Graeme
getting to rocker cover gasket
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- haydn callow
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Re: getting to rocker cover gasket
Which engine??
Re: getting to rocker cover gasket
Ah, good question. Didn't think that would be a factor
Put it this way. I have your Piggy Simples fitted ('95 2.5 TD)
G

Put it this way. I have your Piggy Simples fitted ('95 2.5 TD)
G
- Northern Bongolow
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Re: getting to rocker cover gasket
this probably isnt conclusive as im bound to have forgotten something, but here goes.
lift of the centre console and lift both seats.
remove the three bolts that hold the plastic gear lever mount to the metal engine bridge, 2 at the rear one at an angle at the front.
remove the triangle trim pieces at the side of the center console next to your knee.
remove the load of 10mm bolts that hold the engine bridge unit to the body.
TAKE A PHOTO WITH YER PHONE FOR FUTURE REF, unclip the wiring loom from the gearstick end block connectors and carefully remove the wiring loom mounts from the bridge unit, disconnecting the hand brake switch and black fan sensor etc, you should end up with the wiring harness at the rear end of the engine bay.
CAREFULLY move the gear stick assembly to one side,the gear cable ends are made of plastic and could break if handled roughly. then swing the engine bridge unit towards the rear of the engine as its still connected via the hand brake cable, support it somewhere out of the way.
remove the temp sensor single wire at the front of the engine, it goes over the front of the rocker cover, dont break this clip or the top of the sensor.
remove the 2 bolts that hold the plate that hold the 2 cold start solenoids on the drivers side of the engine to help get at all the rocker cover bolts.
now you should be clear to undo all the rocker cover bolts, theres about 10 if i remember right.
once all the bolts and washers are off slide the cover either forwards or backwards slightly,(cannot remember which) as there is a L shaped piece of metal inside the rocker cover, this stops you just lifting it up.
watch out for the 10 metal tubes that go through the cover and gasket, these are to stop you over tightening the gasket, they act as spacers. the spacer tubes and rubber washers should be replaced when the gasket is replaced as these tubes get distorted and the washers harden with age and heat.
clean everything up.
set yer tappets.
place yer gasket, cover,DONT FORGET TO SLIDE IT A LITTLE, NOT JUST PUT IT DOWN VERTICALLY.fit the tubes, fit the bolts and new rubber washers, i think the new kits come with the washers /tubes bonded to the new bolts which is better for fitting.
tighten to a very loose fit.
tighten to the specific torque , this is crucial to avoid damaging the new tubes and causing a leak.
refit all the stuff you removed .
job done.
lift of the centre console and lift both seats.
remove the three bolts that hold the plastic gear lever mount to the metal engine bridge, 2 at the rear one at an angle at the front.
remove the triangle trim pieces at the side of the center console next to your knee.
remove the load of 10mm bolts that hold the engine bridge unit to the body.
TAKE A PHOTO WITH YER PHONE FOR FUTURE REF, unclip the wiring loom from the gearstick end block connectors and carefully remove the wiring loom mounts from the bridge unit, disconnecting the hand brake switch and black fan sensor etc, you should end up with the wiring harness at the rear end of the engine bay.
CAREFULLY move the gear stick assembly to one side,the gear cable ends are made of plastic and could break if handled roughly. then swing the engine bridge unit towards the rear of the engine as its still connected via the hand brake cable, support it somewhere out of the way.
remove the temp sensor single wire at the front of the engine, it goes over the front of the rocker cover, dont break this clip or the top of the sensor.
remove the 2 bolts that hold the plate that hold the 2 cold start solenoids on the drivers side of the engine to help get at all the rocker cover bolts.
now you should be clear to undo all the rocker cover bolts, theres about 10 if i remember right.
once all the bolts and washers are off slide the cover either forwards or backwards slightly,(cannot remember which) as there is a L shaped piece of metal inside the rocker cover, this stops you just lifting it up.
watch out for the 10 metal tubes that go through the cover and gasket, these are to stop you over tightening the gasket, they act as spacers. the spacer tubes and rubber washers should be replaced when the gasket is replaced as these tubes get distorted and the washers harden with age and heat.
clean everything up.
set yer tappets.
place yer gasket, cover,DONT FORGET TO SLIDE IT A LITTLE, NOT JUST PUT IT DOWN VERTICALLY.fit the tubes, fit the bolts and new rubber washers, i think the new kits come with the washers /tubes bonded to the new bolts which is better for fitting.
tighten to a very loose fit.
tighten to the specific torque , this is crucial to avoid damaging the new tubes and causing a leak.
refit all the stuff you removed .
job done.

Re: getting to rocker cover gasket
Thank you so much.
Just on more question arises.
Tappet setting. What would that involve?
Thanks again northern bongalow
Graeme
Just on more question arises.
Tappet setting. What would that involve?
Thanks again northern bongalow
Graeme
Re: getting to rocker cover gasket
Comprehensive thread here on doing the tappets:
http://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/view ... 27#p508827
Also a thread here cautioning the accuracy of feeler gauges where there is significant wear.
Over to others who can advise on the specific practicalities.
http://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/view ... 27#p508827
Also a thread here cautioning the accuracy of feeler gauges where there is significant wear.
Over to others who can advise on the specific practicalities.
Chris with BertieB
'96 White unconverted AFT 2.5L Diesel 4WD
'96 White unconverted AFT 2.5L Diesel 4WD