Remote Start, Immobiliser & Remote Locking???

[Gdlee1976]

I have a '96 2.5L with central locking (from drivers door unlocks all when key is used) and I'd like to fit the above items. From what I've read, I should only need the following items...

Alarm, remote start unit...
http://www.rclick.co.uk/product_info.ph ... ts_id=1189

Drivers door 2 wire Solenoid...
http://www.rclick.co.uk/product_info.ph ... cts_id=242

Anything I might be missing?? How about any recommended eBay items that accomplish the same thing for less money??

[Simon Jones]

It may be worth finding out some more on the rules regarding use of remote starting devices is the vehicle is to be left on public road. It's the same reason why turbo timers are not fitted for use in UK. Highway Code states http://highwaycode.info/rule/123

Rule 123

You MUST NOT leave a parked vehicle unattended with the engine running or leave a vehicle engine running unnecessarily while that vehicle is stationary on a public road. Generally, if the vehicle is stationary and is likely to remain so for more than a couple of minutes, you should apply the parking brake and switch off the engine to reduce emissions and noise pollution. However it is permissible to leave the engine running if the vehicle is stationary in traffic or for diagnosing faults.

Obviously, if remote start is fitted to a vehicle with a manual gearbox, leaving it in gear (while perhaps parked on a hill) would be problematic.

[Gdlee1976]

It may be worth finding out some more on the rules regarding use of remote starting devices is the vehicle is to be left on public road. It's the same reason why turbo timers are not fitted for use in UK. Highway Code states http://highwaycode.info/rule/123

Rule 123

You MUST NOT leave a parked vehicle unattended with the engine running or leave a vehicle engine running unnecessarily while that vehicle is stationary on a public road. Generally, if the vehicle is stationary and is likely to remain so for more than a couple of minutes, you should apply the parking brake and switch off the engine to reduce emissions and noise pollution. However it is permissible to leave the engine running if the vehicle is stationary in traffic or for diagnosing faults.

Obviously, if remote start is fitted to a vehicle with a manual gearbox, leaving it in gear (while perhaps parked on a hill) would be problematic.

Sorry, meant to say that it would only be remote started in our gated driveway and the van is an auto gearbox.

[Rapidair65]

We fitted a Viper alarm system which has the facility for remote starting and has central locking and a paging system. £150 from the USA via ebay. No immobiliser though but we do have a stonking great wheel clamp!

[nth]

Obviously, if remote start is fitted to a vehicle with a manual gearbox, leaving it in gear (while perhaps parked on a hill) would be problematic.

Normally remote start systems on alarms need to be 'armed' before you leave the car, it sets kind of like a turbo timer, you set it & the engine stays running then you get out the car & lock it with the engine still running, the engine then switches off after a pre set time. The system then knows it is in neutral & will allow remote starting, if any doors have been opened after that initial arming it wont authorise remote starting.

[Gdlee1976]

Ok, so I have decided against the alarm & remote start for now. I will be fitting a keyless entry system & a door solenoid this week and need some guidance...

Solenoid Guide...
Can I tie the Yellow & Yellow/Black +12V into a constant +12V somewhere in the drivers footwell??


System Guide...
For the brown Indicator wires, is there a fuse for the indicators that I can tie into?
Red (+12V) & black (-12V) to the battery... Same deal, can I tie into somewhere or do I need to run both all the way to the battery?

[callum]

hey,
without wanting to divert you to the "other" site, someone posted a really handy pdf of how they did it. It worked a treat for me and was an easy enough job to do in the end. I did automatic fold mirrors and remade the door wiring loom at the same time and all of that took me all day. But the actuator was the easiest part of the job.
Because i did so much at the same time, i can't remember where i got the power from, which is of course not much use to you!

[Gdlee1976]

hey,
without wanting to divert you to the "other" site, someone posted a really handy pdf of how they did it. It worked a treat for me and was an easy enough job to do in the end. I did automatic fold mirrors and remade the door wiring loom at the same time and all of that took me all day. But the actuator was the easiest part of the job.
Because i did so much at the same time, i can't remember where i got the power from, which is of course not much use to you!

Thanks Callum, I've got the PDF from one of the members here that has everything that I need for the solenoid end of things. My concern is making the easiest most reliable connections for the power & indicators wires coming from the control box.

[jimmo62]

There's a permanent +12v at the flasher relay which is in the driver's footwell
http://www.g8dhe.net/bwm/bwmanualp.htm?1995/Page_74
http://www.g8dhe.net/bwm/bwmanualp.htm?1995/Page_75
It's fed via a fuse already so should be suitable for the actuator but you might want to run a separate wire back to the battery via an in-line fuse for the main alarm unit so you have a separate supply in case the indicators blow their fuse

You can of course pick up the connections for the indicator bulbs at the same relay

You can connect -12v to the chassis anywhere convenient