Diesel Pump Replacement

[Mark Elvin]

Is there a guide on here on replacing the diesel pump please? I'm convinced mine is duff & is the route cause of my stalling issues.

[Simon Jones]

This factsheet covers how to change the seals: http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/member ... elpump.pdf

Here's a parts list http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/member ... _parts.pdf

[Mark Elvin]

This factsheet covers how to change the seals: http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/member ... elpump.pdf

Here's a parts list http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/member ... _parts.pdf

Cheers, forgotten the password now.....

[cmm303]

I recall (correctly, I hope?) the fuel pump factsheet only helps with replacing the seals that can be done with the pump in situ. I struggled to find a step by step guide for removing the fuel pump (= fuel pump removal for dummies), so paid ADS to do it!

[jimmo62]

It's covered in the Service Manual

Mark I think you live fairly close so if you want to borrow the manual let me know

[Northern Bongolow]

quick version.

remove the pipes and lecky bits, undo the mounting bolts, remove the timing belt cover bolts and cover and nut on the front pulley on the pump.
get a large drift bar on the end of the pump shaft and belt it towards the rear of the bongo. the gear stays put as it drives internally. mind the key isnt lost that fixes it in position, the pump should just pull out through the mount.
new pump fitting note the key way position and fit key.

[mikeonb4c]

quick version.

remove the pipes and lecky bits, undo the mounting bolts, remove the timing belt cover bolts and cover and nut on the front pulley on the pump.
get a large drift bar on the end of the pump shaft and belt it towards the rear of the bongo. the gear stays put as it drives internally. mind the key isnt lost that fixes it in position, the pump should just pull out through the mount.
new pump fitting note the key way position and fit key.

I know nothing about doing this job except didn't I read something about making sure the pump timing was OK by marking some position of something or other before removing it? Probably my ageing brain getting in a mucking fuddle and I'm wrong about that but....

[rita]

This is from an earlier post by Julian .......




1. using 10mm and 12mm remove the inlet manifold/egr elbow
2. 1f your car is old shape remove the vacuum valve block, 2x 12mm, undo the plugs/piping from valves and fuel pump,pull if up slightly and bend it forward, it puts slight curve in the metal pips than run down and allow it to all slide out, if you have a new shape, ignore all that.
3.8mm nuts to remove fuel line clamps, 17mm x4 at each end to remove the fuel lines, i do the fuel pump end first.
4.can be done without removing metal centre plate but it doe make it easier if its out, from drivers side pull out the lower small console panel, theres a 12mm bolt there, also remove the 2 holding gear selector in place, disconnect all electrics and remove all 10mm bolts (about 8 iirc), leave the handbrake in place, lift the whole panel and stand/rest in on the folded back seats.
5.with the panel out you can get at the 10mm bolts holding cam cover in place, 2 from passenger side, the rest from drivers side, the lowest inside is a bit of a pain, then wiggle the cam cover off and out of the way.
6.the pump is held in place by 2 x 12mm nuts and 1 x 12mm bolt, the 2 at the front and a plate at the back,undo and leave them with lots of slack.
7. using a big socket 38mm, to lock the crank in place, use a 19mm socket to undo the nut in the middle of the lower/fuel pump pulley, there is a copper washer behind the nut.
8.if you have a puller/pusher then undo a pair of bolts on the pulley and use them to puse the pump out, if not, pull the carpet out and you'll see a hole covered with tape,in front/above the pulley, the pump shaft has an inversion in it so using a long pin punch, give it a couple of sharp hits and the pump will release from the taper,but be held in place by the 12mm nuts/bolts.
9.undo all remaining plugs, be aware that the rev counter wiring runs straight past the pump, undo the last 12mm and the pump should come out in your hand

refitting the pump can be tricky, the pump drive/locater (woodruff key) only sits in 1 of four positions (up,down,left,right) so you need to tweak the crank very slightly in order to get it to line up correctly, you can push it in and it feels like its in place but its not and you wont know til the cars fully assembled that you've got it wrong! my advice is to wiggle it in but keep an eye on the lower pulley (with cambelt still on it) and ensure that it remains 'flat' or in line with the engine, if the pump goes in wrong the pulley goes 'wonky', or pushes out slightly on one edge. As stupid as that sounds i've seen a car from a 'diesel specialist' doing exactly that! As with all things reaing it like that sounds like a lot but once its in front of you its not that much and you'll fly through it.

Julian

[mikeonb4c]

This is from an earlier post by Julian .......




1. using 10mm and 12mm remove the inlet manifold/egr elbow
2. 1f your car is old shape remove the vacuum valve block, 2x 12mm, undo the plugs/piping from valves and fuel pump,pull if up slightly and bend it forward, it puts slight curve in the metal pips than run down and allow it to all slide out, if you have a new shape, ignore all that.
3.8mm nuts to remove fuel line clamps, 17mm x4 at each end to remove the fuel lines, i do the fuel pump end first.
4.can be done without removing metal centre plate but it doe make it easier if its out, from drivers side pull out the lower small console panel, theres a 12mm bolt there, also remove the 2 holding gear selector in place, disconnect all electrics and remove all 10mm bolts (about 8 iirc), leave the handbrake in place, lift the whole panel and stand/rest in on the folded back seats.
5.with the panel out you can get at the 10mm bolts holding cam cover in place, 2 from passenger side, the rest from drivers side, the lowest inside is a bit of a pain, then wiggle the cam cover off and out of the way.
6.the pump is held in place by 2 x 12mm nuts and 1 x 12mm bolt, the 2 at the front and a plate at the back,undo and leave them with lots of slack.
7. using a big socket 38mm, to lock the crank in place, use a 19mm socket to undo the nut in the middle of the lower/fuel pump pulley, there is a copper washer behind the nut.
8.if you have a puller/pusher then undo a pair of bolts on the pulley and use them to puse the pump out, if not, pull the carpet out and you'll see a hole covered with tape,in front/above the pulley, the pump shaft has an inversion in it so using a long pin punch, give it a couple of sharp hits and the pump will release from the taper,but be held in place by the 12mm nuts/bolts.
9.undo all remaining plugs, be aware that the rev counter wiring runs straight past the pump, undo the last 12mm and the pump should come out in your hand

refitting the pump can be tricky, the pump drive/locater (woodruff key) only sits in 1 of four positions (up,down,left,right) so you need to tweak the crank very slightly in order to get it to line up correctly, you can push it in and it feels like its in place but its not and you wont know til the cars fully assembled that you've got it wrong! my advice is to wiggle it in but keep an eye on the lower pulley (with cambelt still on it) and ensure that it remains 'flat' or in line with the engine, if the pump goes in wrong the pulley goes 'wonky', or pushes out slightly on one edge. As stupid as that sounds i've seen a car from a 'diesel specialist' doing exactly that! As with all things reaing it like that sounds like a lot but once its in front of you its not that much and you'll fly through it.

Julian

Superb find Rita

[rita]

Its my Mystic memory.

[Mark Elvin]

ADS have quoted 2hrs max to do the job, so my time is better spent leaving it with them & going to work

[mikeonb4c]

ADS have quoted 2hrs max to do the job, so my time is better spent leaving it with them & going to work

Sensible decision IMHO - some things are worth not DIYing!

[Titan1995]

I did mine a couple of years ago.

The main thing to watch out for is to make sure that the pump drive shaft woodruff key engages fully into the gear that drives it.

The pump can be secured with out this happening and therefore nothing turns.