How to tell if turbo is working?

cmm303 · Post by **cmm303** » Sun Aug 16, 2015 8:48 pm

As a yardstick, I recall an earlier discussion concluding that diesel Bongos can maintain 70 on most UK motorway hills.

In mine, I can't sense the turbo kicking in like I can in a modern diesel car. Also revs don't provide the boost in power that a petrol does, in fact when my revs DROP around 40 mph I notice a distinct surge.

Fassi · Post by **Fassi** » Mon Aug 17, 2015 8:59 am

cmm303 wrote:As a yardstick, I recall an earlier discussion concluding that diesel Bongos can maintain 70 on most UK motorway hills.

In mine, I can't sense the turbo kicking in like I can in a modern diesel car. Also revs don't provide the boost in power that a petrol does, in fact when my revs DROP around 40 mph I notice a distinct surge.

Yes I don't sense mine kicking in at all as well. So this could be normal?

Fassi · Post by **Fassi** » Mon Aug 17, 2015 9:26 am

Northern Bongolow wrote:this is good starting point vid.

is the actuator rod moving freely, this works the wastegate, if its stuck it wont work right.

Is this the actuator you mean? The one that goes under the heat shield? It doesn't move at all by hand, but I haven't tried forcing it.

Northern Bongolow · Post by **Northern Bongolow** » Mon Aug 17, 2015 6:29 pm

yes thats the chappie. the turbo comes in at about 2000 revs and you would certainly know if its not working. leave the passy seat up and take it for a good spanking.

looks like its had a new head on at some point and the turbo cooling pipe (water) /bleed pipe looks a bit creative mate.

just looking at the silver paper heat shield, that should be further round towards the rear, is the unprotected pipe towards the rear still intact, ive seen one melted in the past.

Fassi · Post by **Fassi** » Mon Aug 17, 2015 7:29 pm

Northern Bongolow wrote:yes thats the chappie. the turbo comes in at about 2000 revs and you would certainly know if its not working. leave the passy seat up and take it for a good spanking.

looks like its had a new head on at some point and the turbo cooling pipe (water) /bleed pipe looks a bit creative mate.

just looking at the silver paper heat shield, that should be further round towards the rear, is the unprotected pipe towards the rear still intact, ive seen one melted in the past.

I'll check all this and get back. I did notice the cooling hose art with the bleed pipe was different from the YouTube bleeding video. Think the head was changed by the owner before last as I found a piece of paper in amongst the jack mentioning it. Where should the turbo cooling hose actually come from? Do you think it is efficient the way it is?

Northern Bongolow · Post by **Northern Bongolow** » Mon Aug 17, 2015 7:39 pm

it should be ok but the jubilee clips would concern me, they should have the sprung constant pressure clips on, but the hose does look really thick walled.
it should have a 3 pipe t piece in the head, where the pipe comes out of the head, 1 goes to turbo, 1 goes to bleed pipe, the last one goes as is, the bypass hose under the alternator to the stat housing.

Fassi · Post by **Fassi** » Wed Aug 19, 2015 4:21 pm

Northern Bongolow wrote:
just looking at the silver paper heat shield, that should be further round towards the rear, is the unprotected pipe towards the rear still intact, ive seen one melted in the past.

does this seem ok. Sorry for all the questions it just that I've no clue really and trying to learn as fast as possible.

Fassi · Post by **Fassi** » Wed Aug 19, 2015 4:23 pm

Northern Bongolow wrote:yes thats the chappie. the turbo comes in at about 2000 revs and you would certainly know if its not working. leave the passy seat up and take it for a good spanking.

Still waiting to do this as I'm in vienna now and if I move the bongo I reckon I won't get parked again for a while.

Fassi · Post by **Fassi** » Wed Aug 19, 2015 4:25 pm

Northern Bongolow wrote:it should be ok but the jubilee clips would concern me, they should have the sprung constant pressure clips on, but the hose does look really thick walled.
it should have a 3 pipe t piece in the head, where the pipe comes out of the head, 1 goes to turbo, 1 goes to bleed pipe, the last one goes as is, the bypass hose under the alternator to the stat housing.

I remember when I bled the cooling system that the I.D. of the hose was about 8mm. The wall seemed quite thick in comparison. Maybe 3 or 4 mm.

Fassi · Post by **Fassi** » Wed Aug 19, 2015 4:32 pm

Northern Bongolow wrote:could be tps or something really simple like fuel, have you done all the usual suspects, main fuel filter, filter in the top of the pump (banjo filter) and removed the fuel supply pipe to the filter housing and gently blow back to the tank, it has a thimble filter on the pick up pipe in the tank.

is the bango filter under this bolt/plug in the centre of the picture? I am just learning about cars in general.

cmm303 · Post by **cmm303** » Wed Aug 19, 2015 5:50 pm

The bolt looks familiar! I don't have a photographic memory to recall the bits around it. Easy enough to trace its pipe back though.
Quick tip. There's a spring and washers waiting to get lost! The little mesh banjo filter can be extracted using a cotton bud.

Northern Bongolow · Post by **Northern Bongolow** » Wed Aug 19, 2015 6:14 pm

yes thats the fella. about 2 inches back from the bolt there is an allen key which supports the banjo bolt pipe against vibration, undo the allen bolt, then loosen the banjo bolt a little, then remove by hand, there are several copper washers sealing both sides of the banjo bolt so dont loose em. remove banjo bolt, look inside and see top of spring, get a cotton bud and fish out the spring, then flatten out the cotton bud a little then fish out the little gauze filter, dont just look in and see if its clean and leave it as some are like hairdressers plug holes.

top tip.
the little allen bolt is fiddly and easy to loose.

scroll down on this link and view a pic.

http://www.4wdaction.com.au/forum/viewt ... 6&t=116416

Fassi · Post by **Fassi** » Wed Aug 19, 2015 7:15 pm

cmm303 wrote:The bolt looks familiar! I don't have a photographic memory to recall the bits around it. Easy enough to trace its pipe back though.
Quick tip. There's a spring and washers waiting to get lost! The little mesh banjo filter can be extracted using a cotton bud.

thankyou

Fassi · Post by **Fassi** » Wed Aug 19, 2015 7:16 pm

Northern Bongolow wrote:yes thats the fella. about 2 inches back from the bolt there is an allen key which supports the banjo bolt pipe against vibration, undo the allen bolt, then loosen the banjo bolt a little, then remove by hand, there are several copper washers sealing both sides of the banjo bolt so dont loose em. remove banjo bolt, look inside and see top of spring, get a cotton bud and fish out the spring, then flatten out the cotton bud a little then fish out the little gauze filter, dont just look in and see if its clean and leave it as some are like hairdressers plug holes.

top tip.
the little allen bolt is fiddly and easy to loose.

scroll down on this link and view a pic.

http://www.4wdaction.com.au/forum/viewt ... 6&t=116416

And thanks again

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