Alarm connections

Post by **g8dhe** » Thu Jul 16, 2015 10:16 pm

With regard to the door pin switches there is no single place which has all the doors covered, the boot door switch appears to be on its own. You can pick up the sliding door and both front doors from the dash board light signal

see the two diodes in the package I3-06 it feeds the dash light to indicate doors open (accept boot) if you picked up that signal (still -ve then you would only need a further two diodes to link up with the boot door if you want that covered as well.

jimmo62 · Post by **jimmo62** » Thu Jul 16, 2015 10:49 pm

Hi Geoff, I think the alarm in question has a separate "boot" sensor so that could be used to cover the tailgate (that's what I did with mine) - I agree you could probably use the single output of the existing diodes, I added some more because it was simple and I didn't want problems with the door light on the dash as I was concerned about interference from the alarm with the light operation, would be good to know if anyone has done it the way you suggest.

sotal · Post by **sotal** » Thu Jul 16, 2015 10:54 pm

If I don't connect up the boot - is it just a case of cutting the R/W wire going into the interior light and joining into that? Do I need any diodes to connect to just that?

Jimmo62 - The boot wire is an output - for popping boots open. Don't think it has a separate boot input.

jimmo62 · Post by **jimmo62** » Fri Jul 17, 2015 7:12 am

OK, in that case.... if you want to connect multiple doors to the door input of the alarm, and the door lights work independently (i.e. some doors only operate some lights) - which is the case in the Bongo, you need a diode for each light circuit. As Geoff mentioned, there are already diodes for the front and side doors, so if you want to add the rear door you need to add that via a diode so that the lights still work independently.

Post by **g8dhe** » Fri Jul 17, 2015 10:19 am

No there is no need in fact you musn't cut any leads the power must already be there. Two possible ways to bring in the boot connection;
1. Preferred - use three diodes one from each switch, other ends commoned together, the common point also connects to the alarm.

2. Probably OK - use two diodes one from the boot switch the other from the dash light (I3-06) diode pair. The common of the added diodes goes to the alarm.

sotal · Post by **sotal** » Sat Jul 18, 2015 10:10 am

g8dhe wrote:No there is no need in fact you musn't cut any leads the power must already be there. Two possible ways to bring in the boot connection;
1. Preferred - use three diodes one from each switch, other ends commoned together, the common point also connects to the alarm.

2. Probably OK - use two diodes one from the boot switch the other from the dash light (I3-06) diode pair. The common of the added diodes goes to the alarm.

What do you mean by "You mustn't cut any leads the power must already be there"?

Was that referring to me suggesting I cut a lead to tap in? If it is best not to cut a lead how am I best to join in to the circuit?

Thanks

Post by **g8dhe** » Sat Jul 18, 2015 11:40 am

I may have miss read what you said, at last I can't see the phrase I thought you used! If you cut a wire to re-join it that's fine, but I thought you said somewhere about disconnecting the rear boot light by disconnecting the wire and then connecting the alarm to the switch alone, in which case there wouldn't be a transition from +12 volts to 0 volts (-ve trigger).

sotal · Post by **sotal** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 10:29 pm

Ok I have now found the diode pack and the relevant wires for the 2 front doors and the sliding door (thanks to some help from Jim!)

I have ordered some diodes to connect up between.

Am I best to wire a single diode to the red wire, as the other two are combined by that point? Or should I wire 2 separate diodes (one to the red/white and one to the red/green)?

Are there any pros and cons to this?

Then one more to the rear light? I take it there is nowhere at the front of the vehicle to take this signal?

I also read about people having issues when they connected alarms up - with the alarm effectively bridging the SB and LB batteries together.

I presume the problem with this is that you end up draining both batteries together?

The suggested fix was to move the interior light circuit back to the SB as it was only an issue when it was moved to the LB.

At this point will I have connected anything that can make this bridge? I take it the diodes will stop it back feeding anything?

If I connect the interior light output wire from the alarm will that cause problems? It is intended to illuminate the interior light for 25 seconds when the car is unlocked. However would that be through the alarm? Which comes from the starter battery? Would that then cause problems with the interior light normally being powered from the LB? What would happen when you actually opened the door? As that would have the interior light powered by the alarm and the LB at the same time.

Thanks for all the help with this - it has been a bit daunting but I think I'm getting there and learning a lot about the Bongo whilst I'm at it!

Post by **Simon Jones** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 10:54 pm

Some alarms work by detecting the voltage drop that occurs when the interior light comes on when door/tailgate is opened. If that type of alarm is powered by SB while the interior lights are powered by the LB then it will not be able to measure the voltage drop correctly.

Most alarms are more straightforward so have direct connections to the door switches so are not affected by the split battery arrangement.

Post by **g8dhe** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 10:55 pm

Nothing to stop you adding a single extra diode from the rear door to the same common point, then you would have a light to indicate an open door as well!

sotal · Post by **sotal** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 10:58 pm

g8dhe wrote:Nothing to stop you adding a single extra diode from the rear door to the same common point, then you would have a light to indicate an open door as well!

Good point - strange that was never done from the factory. What gauge wire would it need to be for that run from the rear to the front?

Thanks again!

Post by **g8dhe** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 11:15 pm

Add the diode at the switch end and then you can use a much lower rated wire as it will only be carrying the dashboard lamp current rather than having the rear light current. A couple of Amps would then be more than adequate.

sotal · Post by **sotal** » Thu Jul 23, 2015 5:22 pm

Wow that was another headache today!

The diodes came but no matter how I connected them up it would not recognise the door opening. After much trial and error I used the pos (+) wire instead from the alarm and put the diodes in the other way round and it all appears to be working now.

As I say it all appears to be working fine. The doors unlock, if I don't open a door within about 20 seconds then the car re-locks. If I do open a door then it stays unlocked and doesn't rearm. If I have locked with the fob and I use the key to open the Bongo then the alarm goes off.

What I guess I want to know is, is it right? As I say I have had to use the pos line rather than the neg, and then I had to reverse the diodes too. Is there any danger of it doing something it shouldn't? The interior lights still work as they should - cab light comes on if you open either front door. Rear light comes on if you open the side door. Warning light shows on the dash if the doors are open.

Post by **g8dhe** » Thu Jul 23, 2015 7:13 pm

That is another reason for not trying guess to much about these systems!
For obvious reasons they don't publish widely the circuits and so you have to guess as to how they work if your not in the trade, and I gather even then there is a lot of missing info.!

sotal · Post by **sotal** » Thu Jul 23, 2015 7:15 pm

g8dhe wrote:That is another reason for not trying guess to much about these systems!
For obvious reasons they don't publish widely the circuits and so you have to guess as to how they work if your not in the trade, and I gather even then there is a lot of missing info.!

So do you think it sounds OK to leave as is? As it is working!

Alarm connections

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