Drama free oil change

[BongoBongo123]

Lovely springlike day so just did an oil change and it went very smoothly. The nut came off ok I was a little worried as I got the garage to do it last time for speed when I got the Bongo in June 2014, some have a tendency to do it up so hard it is a struggle to get off but it was no bother. Very little spillage a bit of a jet missed the basin when it came out at first but not a great deal had some old sheets down which caught it.

In total it took me 1 hour 15mins including a slow funneling of old oil from plastic basin into 2 old oil bottles ready for taking down the dump. I also did a nice clean up under there with an old rag as it was a bit oily. MOT has an advisory (oil leak) which I am not too worried about as it seems not have changed in oily-ness since I have had it and 6 litres came out as expected when not changing the filter so it is pretty minor. At least now it is clean under the sump etc. I can see what is happening in months to come if anything.

I chose not to do the filter this time as it was done last time (June) and I have only done 3,000 miles. Put Magnatec in there this time. Should keep it lubed for the summer. An easy job with a known outcome and nice to know you put good oil back in.

What you need if you fancy doing it:

Old clothes to put on or overalls.
Old oil containers.. ideally 2, a spare as you will have leftover in the second of your 2 new containers
Old sheets under basin and for pouring oil into old oil containers
Basin (Poundland do em and will fit 6-7 litres no bother)
19mm spanner/socket.. I used the socket as the arm was shorter.
Funnel for ease of getting oil in Bongo filler cap and old oil into old containers.
Some rags or a loo roll to clean the nut, basin and funnel after.
Latex gloves for messy bits (most of it once the nut is off!)
Leather rigger gloves - again Poundland so you don't mangle you hand on metal work if the socket/spanner slips (been there years ago !)
A marker pen to write old oil on the old containers containing.. yep... the old oil.

Just remember to put your filler cap back on and that you tightened your sump nut proper if
you just put in hand tight to stem the drips.

There is a useful member fact sheet for the oil change in the user area.

[the laird]

Always change the filer irrelevant of miles when oil change carried out

[BongoBongo123]

Always change the filer irrelevant of miles when oil change carried out

I have read the contrary and so I did not this time. There is suggestion that oil filters work better (filter more effectively I presume they filter sludge and any engine filings) when they have been doing their job for a while. I cannot see 3,000 miles in a well looked after engine causing much of a problem knowing I am likely to only drive another 3,000 miles before another oil change when I will do the filter. Especially when you have put new clean high quality oil in.

If you are doing 15,000 miles a year by all means that makes sense. I think it comes down to how hard and how far you drive. I am easy going on the throttle and do low mileages so think it is throwing money down the drain to change the filter every time.

Some people do and some don't, it seems even Honda suggest every other.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... er=1647735

I won't be sweating it. If there was a scientific back up for this it would change my mind.

[Simon Jones]

Mazda recommendation is to change it every other oil change (10,000 km/6000 miles). If you know it was changed last service, you're fine for now.

[scanner]

I just change my filter and oil every couple of years whether it needs it or not - it always pays to err on the safe side.

[BongoBongo123]

Cool, ultimately everyone knows their own vehicle, in the past I always did filter with every oil change, standard. But I read it was not strictly necessary (especially when low mileage is the case). After a while if you do your own basic servicing you get to know what the bits look like when they come off plugs, filters etc. And you know how you drive the vehicle so you can make a educated guess as to whether or not specific service intervals will benefit your specific vehicle or not. No one knows everything so it is worth discussion. 3,000 good miles at 55mph (2,000 - 2,200rpm) is nothing for diesels of this strength with the quality of oils these days.

I will take a look at the air filter in the forthcoming weeks, I anticipate it will be identical to when I replaced it 8-9 months ago.

[BongoBongo123]

I just change my filter and oil every couple of years whether it needs it or not - it always pays to err on the safe side.

But that's 2 years, that seems like a fair while to me. But then again maybe you do very low miles and drive in an easy going style. My oil was changed 8 months ago and I have done about 3,000 miles that's well within sensible service interval for a diesel with modern oil.

I have my sneaking suspicions that there are a fair few cars/vans that have 5 y.o. old in them running around. In general I think servicing of vehicles that are not owned by people with some level of motor enthusiasm probably leaves something to be desired. Even in times where I have lost interest in cars they have always been serviced with at least yearly regularity. (and that has been petrols) The Bongo is my first diesel and as I gather it is pretty important to keep fairly on top of it, especially the oil as it has a hard time under such high compression that diesels operate under.

Semi-synth Magnatec this time, fully synth Halfords next time. She/He's worth it !

[teenmal]

BongoBongo123,just as a matter of interest, when you start your engine after it has been sitting overnight how long does the oil warning light stay on?

[scanner]

especially the oil as it has a hard time under such high compression that diesels operate under.

Not sure how the high compression of the engine affects anything other than the diesel burned in the cylinder and that wouldn't burn if there wasn't such high compression. If you high compression is mixing with your engine oil you have bigger problems than just whether to change your filter with your oil.
Diesel engine oil pressures are much the same as those in petrol engines.

PS I was joking earlier, the engine is currently over 170,000 miles and climbing.

[BongoBongo123]

especially the oil as it has a hard time under such high compression that diesels operate under.

Not sure how the high compression of the engine affects anything other than the diesel burned in the cylinder and that wouldn't burn if there wasn't such high compression. If you high compression is mixing with your engine oil you have bigger problems than just whether to change your filter with your oil.
Diesel engine oil pressures are much the same as those in petrol engines.

PS I was joking earlier, the engine is currently over 170,000 miles and climbing.

I am not a mechanic but piston rings spring to mind. And after a quick check:

"Piston rings have been an area of considerable focus and development for internal combustion engines. The needs of diesel engines and small piston-ported two-stroke engines have been particularly difficult. Piston rings may account for a considerable proportion of the total friction in the engine, as much as 24%.[3][4] This high friction is a result of the design compromises needed to achieve good sealing and long lifetime. Sealing is achieved by multiple rings, each with their own function, using a metal-on-metal sliding contact."

[BongoBongo123]

BongoBongo123,just as a matter of interest, when you start your engine after it has been sitting overnight how long does the oil warning light stay on?

I do not think I have looked before. Will check it out.

[scanner]

especially the oil as it has a hard time under such high compression that diesels operate under.

Not sure how the high compression of the engine affects anything other than the diesel burned in the cylinder and that wouldn't burn if there wasn't such high compression. If you high compression is mixing with your engine oil you have bigger problems than just whether to change your filter with your oil.
Diesel engine oil pressures are much the same as those in petrol engines.

PS I was joking earlier, the engine is currently over 170,000 miles and climbing.

I am not a mechanic but piston rings spring to mind. And after a quick check:

"Piston rings have been an area of considerable focus and development for internal combustion engines. The needs of diesel engines and small piston-ported two-stroke engines have been particularly difficult. Piston rings may account for a considerable proportion of the total friction in the engine, as much as 24%.[3][4] This high friction is a result of the design compromises needed to achieve good sealing and long lifetime. Sealing is achieved by multiple rings, each with their own function, using a metal-on-metal sliding contact."

But it is oil pressure that ensures they are lubricated and so far as I know that isn't seriously affected by compression unless the rings aren't doing their job and then (as I said) you have bigger problems than how often to change the filter.
The generally lower revs of diesel engines usually means the rings have an easier life than in higher revving petrol engines and certainly easier than in most 2 strokes.

[BongoBongo123]

But it is oil pressure that ensures they are lubricated and so far as I know that isn't seriously affected by compression unless the rings aren't doing their job and then (as I said) you have bigger problems than how often to change the filter.
The generally lower revs of diesel engines usually means the rings have an easier life than in higher revving petrol engines and certainly easier than in most 2 strokes.

As I say not a mechanic but I was under the impression that diesels have higher tolerances.. i.e. everything is tighter and therefore there was greater likely hood of frictionm break down of oil quality thus the reason why you need to change it more.

Tighter tolerances would possibly relate to the compression level in an engine (stopping power from escaping the down stroke of a piston). I am completely open to being corrected. These days with emissions constraints for petrol your average petrol engine might operate under higher compression as well, it might not be the case now but I think historically it might have been.

[scanner]

But it is oil pressure that ensures they are lubricated and so far as I know that isn't seriously affected by compression unless the rings aren't doing their job and then (as I said) you have bigger problems than how often to change the filter.
The generally lower revs of diesel engines usually means the rings have an easier life than in higher revving petrol engines and certainly easier than in most 2 strokes.

As I say not a mechanic but I was under the impression that diesels have higher tolerances.. i.e. everything is tighter and therefore there was greater likely hood of frictionm break down of oil quality thus the reason why you need to change it more.

Tighter tolerances would possibly relate to the compression level in an engine (stopping power from escaping the down stroke of a piston). I am completely open to being corrected. These days with emissions constraints for petrol your average petrol engine might operate under higher compression as well, it might not be the case now but I think historically it might have been.

Compression depends on the ratio of cylinder volume to combustion chamber volume (compression ratio) and tolerances don't affect that.

[BongoBongo123]

Then I am wrong. I wonder what it is that does mean diesels need to have oil changes at shorter intervals than petrol ?