Rear washer motor

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weebrian
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Rear washer motor

Post by weebrian » Fri Dec 05, 2014 2:53 pm

My rear washer motor has stopped working. How easy/difficult is it to access and replace?
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Simon Jones
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Re: Rear washer motor

Post by Simon Jones » Fri Dec 05, 2014 3:04 pm

Its easier to remove the washer bottle although if you have a leisure battery you may need to remove that to get access. After that, you just pull the pump out from the rubber seal on the bottle. The rear pump is the higher one of the two and just to be awkward, the electrical contacts are different to the front pump so you may have to do some mods if you buy a front pump which can be picked up for around £10.

Are you sure the pump is not working? Sometimes the pipe can get kinked/blocked/disconnected resulting in no output from the nozzle.
the.sasquatch
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Re: Rear washer motor

Post by the.sasquatch » Fri Dec 05, 2014 3:20 pm

I did mine not that long ago and it was pretty straight forward. You can sometimes clean them up and they will work (i think there is a fact sheet in the members area on this). Otherwise i nipped to the scrappies and got one from a mazda mpv for £1 and chucked it on. Had to use the connector from the mpv as the spade connections were in a different orientation.

There are however plenty spare ones on ebay etc
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weebrian
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Re: Rear washer motor

Post by weebrian » Fri Dec 05, 2014 3:25 pm

Yes Simon, definitely the pump. I would think they are not fused separately so a trip to the scrapyard is on the cards.
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Northern Bongolow
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Re: Rear washer motor

Post by Northern Bongolow » Fri Dec 05, 2014 6:09 pm

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weebrian
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Re: Rear washer motor

Post by weebrian » Sat Dec 06, 2014 3:09 pm

Thanks for all your tips. Just come in from the cold having successfully sorted things out. Pump was completely seized but otherwise was very clean and in good order with plenty of life left on the brushes. Half an hour soaked in WD40 and a help from a small screwdriver got things moving.

Can't believe how such a simple job could be such a ball ache. The amount of dismantling just to get the reservoir out is crazy. Then getting it past time stiffened cables, a pain. Then dropping my 10mm socket into the depths, well. Just as well know one was listening!
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Northern Bongolow
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Re: Rear washer motor

Post by Northern Bongolow » Sat Dec 06, 2014 8:57 pm

glad it helped.

make sure you use good quality screenwash that will stop the bottle and motors freezing, they are really in the cold zone when mounted. i use the screen wash that resists freezing down to about -50 deg c. most cheaper/standard ones will freeze around -10 dec c.

good one.
http://www.millersoils.co.uk/automotive ... sector=Car.

normal one. 2 of these are minus 10, one is only minus 4. ?????.
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine ... eenwash-2l
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Simon Jones
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Re: Rear washer motor

Post by Simon Jones » Sat Dec 06, 2014 9:04 pm

I've used this which is good to -75C when used neat. If it gets that cold, then frozen washer jets will be the least of my worries :)

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-a ... &0&cc5_701
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Northern Bongolow
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Re: Rear washer motor

Post by Northern Bongolow » Sat Dec 06, 2014 9:14 pm

:) :) think the tyres may freeze off down at those temps.

im just trying to show peeps that one screen wash deffo isnt like another. :wink: .
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Simon Jones
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Re: Rear washer motor

Post by Simon Jones » Sat Dec 06, 2014 9:22 pm

You're right. Some cheap screen washes have some additives that can damage paintwork too. Historically i've always used Halfords brand but it does have a habit of going quite gungy almost as if its turned into pond water. When the current bottle is finished I'll go back to the EuroCarParts stuff which fine when I used it last winter.
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Re: Rear washer motor

Post by helen&tony » Sun Dec 07, 2014 5:27 am

Hi
A lot of the older screenwashes used methanol for winter...now more or less banned in the EU...which is a nuisance , as it worked well in water/meth injection...A fair number of the newer additives are pretty good, but most don't work at all when the temperatures drop below 18/20C...They do protect the washer lines and the bottles/ pumps, but they freeze in the jets until the bonnet's good and hot! :lol:
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