Checking the pipes..

[TheStinkyHippy]

Excellent thread started : http://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/view ... 56#p562137
I didn't want to clog up that thread with this discussion, so I started a new thread.

Ian indicates:

Judging by calls received and online orders taken, I would say that corrosion of steel pipes under the Bongo, especially on 95 and 96 models, is something to watch out for. We have spotted a 200% rise over the last 6 months in those people (including garages) who order the following

Rear Heater Supply Pipes (driver side, the one with the T junction)
Auto Transmission Pipes (pair of, which are in the same area)

These pipes corrode from within and there can be no signs of rust until a small hole appears. A hole in either of the ATF pipes will be inconvenient as your Bongo will not start. But a hole in the rear heater pipe is potentially catastrophic.

When getting your Bongo serviced, or performing your own checks, ensure these pipes are not overlooked.

Are there any videos / photos of the exact areas to check..?
Under the bongo is a lot of pipes.. I think I know which these are, and once it starts raining I am going to go have a look.
I may video it, just to help others when checking.. but want to make sure I get the correct area.

My underneath (!) needs another coating of waxoyl, which I am going to try at the weekend. I assume these pipes can be covered in the gunk but want to check before they get hidden.

[BongoBongo123]

Hi mate.. well I just popped out with a torch and looked under the driver side of the vehicle, mid section. You will immediately see some rubber hoses (quite a lot of them ! ) and there is one easily visible long metal pipe that has a T section held on by a metal tag, it undulates a little then goes behind a very thick plastic pipe (you need to go a bit further under to see it then) and then does a 90 degree further to the front and goes out of sight. It is bolted to underside of chassis by the looks of it in 2 places. I believe that to be this (hope so cause I bought one now !)

http://www.mazdabongo.com/catalog/cooli ... all-models

When I looked I thought it was surface rust but as I looked more thoroughly it looks pretty bubbly in sections and pretty much only a matter of time before it goes.

[Northern Bongolow]

http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... 78#p571797

[mikeonb4c]

Mine went - brand new one now fitted. Not the least bit surprised to read all this. My Bongo is currently having some welding work done on the sills plus new cross member under the radiator. We will see more of this, so expect to budget for it. These old girls are worth it though in my view. I've had 8 years of happiness for a £3.7k outlay. Hopefully my investment will buy me several years more

[BongoBongo123]

Nice pics Northern (nice when they are not on your bongo ) I hope so Mike, here's to hoping. You do have to consider why they were not made out of copper . Built in redundancy ? I suppose 20 years from a bit of sprayed mild steel in all weather is not too bad going.

[Simon Jones]

Using coolant of the correct strength (which is replaced every 2 years) should minimise the risks of corroding from the inside while a bush over with clear Waxoyl will help protect the outside from the elements.

[mikeonb4c]

Nice pics Northern (nice when they are not on your bongo ) I hope so Mike, here's to hoping. You do have to consider why they were not made out of copper . Built in redundancy ? I suppose 20 years from a bit of sprayed mild steel in all weather is not too bad going.

I think they're built to market expectations, and it was suggested to me that in Japan they never expect to keep a car more than 10 years. If that's true, it's a testament to Mazda they're doing as well as they are. We'll just have to see how long they can economically be kept going. I remind myself though of the low depreciation mine has experienced, and how much I'd have had to pay for some of the alternatives that I would have enjoyed owning and driving a lot less

[mikeonb4c]

Using coolant of the correct strength (which is replaced every 2 years) should minimise the risks of corroding from the inside while a bush over with clear Waxoyl will help protect the outside from the elements.

You'd think so wouldn't you. I think mine went from the outside, because I'd assumed it was thicker than it is and I'd not been religious about waxoyling. I think there is a problem even so as waxoyl will tend to come off easily as a result of the pipe warming plus being exposed to abrasion by road spray. V regular attention needed from the start.

[Simon Jones]

I found that even though the pipe gets warm, it retains a film of Waxoyl which is enough to repel water although it's one of the areas to keep refreshed as & when it needs it. By using the clear stuff, you can keep an eye on any rust already present.

[BongoBongo123]

Is this the normal aerosol Waxoyl in the yellow can Simon ?

Edit : sorry I had a look and you can buy a litre of "clear" with a screw top bottle which I imagine you apply with an old cotton rag and some gloves on.

cheers

[Simon Jones]

The aerosol is the cheapest option if you don't need much. You could squirt some into a tub which could be warmed up slightly in a bowl of water and then brushed onto to the pipes. I bought a big 5 litre refill can as I plan to do inside all the doors and it's better to have the clear stuff dribbling out the drain holes on the doors than the black.

[BongoBongo123]

Thanks Simon. Well I took a look at the ATF pipes and they seem in much better condition. Looks to me like the pipes are made out of metal less likely to corrode. (zinc plated ? stainless? aluminium? Kind of look like brake fluid type pipes) So my fears are alleviated there.

Where is this other long metal pipe that carries water I could not seem to locate it, near side rear heater one.

This one:

http://www.mazdabongo.com/catalog/cooli ... all-models

Also it has come down £30.00 !!!! thats a good thing.

[Jim the Box]

Would it be possible to iliminate thr rear heater units completely and just complete the system for the front unit only using a rubber hose. Seem to recal Phil at Jal telling me my rear heater would not work due to it being disconnected during the kitchen installation, thus I have never even attempted to turn on the rear heaters, makes sense to me to remove all the metal pipe work at risk of corrosion if I can.
Has anyone done this?

[Diplomat]

You beat me to it Jim!

Surely a suitable hose could link the start and finish points of the routing to the rear heater?

It's nice to brag about having a separate heater in the back but if it reduces aggro I can live without it as easily as I can live without A/C. Plenty of warm air from the front eventually fills the back.

I'd rather have no rear heater than no Bongo!


Frank

[roosmith]

Simon has done just that and posted a few pics before.