Clunking noise

Technical questions and answers about the Mazda Bongo

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cheekal
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Re: Clunking noise

Post by cheekal » Tue May 21, 2013 11:21 am

Seagull wrote:Thanks for starting this thread as I have noticed much the same issue with my v6 Freda when going over bumps. It's still under warranty so I'm thinking of getting it checked out.

What's the long term risk of driving a vehicle with "clunking"?

Let me know the outcome when you get it checked out
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Re: Clunking noise

Post by Dodgey » Tue May 21, 2013 11:37 am

I drove mine for ages with clunking on both sides. The reality is this:

Drop links - when the joints go they clunk - if one catastrophically fails then you lose the benefit of the Anti roll bar - i.e. your van will roll/wallow on the bends more. You'll know when it's happened but it shouldn't be dramatic.

Lower wishbone ball joints - the clunking is the ball moving laterally and vertically in the ball socket. Worse case scenario - total joint failure - this would allow the underside of the brake assembly to separate from the wishbone. Your front wheel would have nothing stopping the bottom from moving outwards, away from the vehicle - causing wheel collapse and suspension damage. More serious.

I kept an eye on mine so have no concerns. Plus, a gently knocking joint should not get much worse without a lot of bumping around. Your call of course, but in my opinion, no need to rush to the garage and put your car on bricks, but get it sorted soon, as it needs doing.
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mikexgough
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Re: Clunking noise

Post by mikexgough » Tue May 21, 2013 11:39 am

Dodgey wrote:Easy with the right tools, and no, you don't need to remove the ARB. Here is the low down:

To change front wishbone ball joints you need to:

1) Jack up the car and then support the chassis with an axle stand (I use 2 for safety) - you have to do this as the jacking point is actually a bracket you need to undo later.

2) Remove the wheel!

3) Undo the long bolt holding the wishbone to the chassis at the front end and remove it - you will likely need a breaker-bar for this (long socket wrench for leverage). Undo the two bolts holding the D bracket to the chassis that holds the other end of the wishbone to the chassis - again, you will need a breaker bar. I certainly did.

4) With a 27mm or 1 inch spanner, remove the castle nut on top of the wishbone ball joint - you have to remove a split pin 1st.

5) Spray the now exposed bolt where it goes into the brake assembly with Plus Gas or similar (releasing agent) and leave for half an hour or so.

6) Release the ball joint from the brake assembly by either hitting it hard with a lump hammer so the shock breaks it free (very lucky), or beat it with a ball joint separator. The Plus Gas is key here. Without it you may be bashing it for half an hour. With it, maybe 3 or 4 hits.

7) Now the whole lot (wishbone) will fall off.

8) Press out the old joint and press in the new one. This can be done with a vice apparently. I have a hydraulic press. A friendly garage should do this for you if you slip them a tenner. Takes a couple of minutes.

The key things you need are a breaker bar, plus gas, a 1" spanner (or 27-28mm) , and preferably, a press. Without the breaker bar and plus gas it's a nightmare of a job. With them, it's a doddle.

Don't forget to drop the Bongo back on the floor before you torque up the wishbone nuts and bolts ..... :wink: ....
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cheekal
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Re: Clunking noise

Post by cheekal » Tue May 21, 2013 11:53 am

Dodgey wrote:Easy with the right tools, and no, you don't need to remove the ARB. Here is the low down:

To change front wishbone ball joints you need to:

1) Jack up the car and then support the chassis with an axle stand (I use 2 for safety) - you have to do this as the jacking point is actually a bracket you need to undo later.

2) Remove the wheel!

3) Undo the long bolt holding the wishbone to the chassis at the front end and remove it - you will likely need a breaker-bar for this (long socket wrench for leverage). Undo the two bolts holding the D bracket to the chassis that holds the other end of the wishbone to the chassis - again, you will need a breaker bar. I certainly did.

4) With a 27mm or 1 inch spanner, remove the castle nut on top of the wishbone ball joint - you have to remove a split pin 1st.

5) Spray the now exposed bolt where it goes into the brake assembly with Plus Gas or similar (releasing agent) and leave for half an hour or so.

6) Release the ball joint from the brake assembly by either hitting it hard with a lump hammer so the shock breaks it free (very lucky), or beat it with a ball joint separator. The Plus Gas is key here. Without it you may be bashing it for half an hour. With it, maybe 3 or 4 hits.

7) Now the whole lot (wishbone) will fall off.

8) Press out the old joint and press in the new one. This can be done with a vice apparently. I have a hydraulic press. A friendly garage should do this for you if you slip them a tenner. Takes a couple of minutes.

The key things you need are a breaker bar, plus gas, a 1" spanner (or 27-28mm) , and preferably, a press. Without the breaker bar and plus gas it's a nightmare of a job. With them, it's a doddle.
Thanks for the info
how easy is it to remove the anti roll bar bushes
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Seagull
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Re: Clunking noise

Post by Seagull » Tue May 21, 2013 11:57 am

Dodgey wrote:I drove mine for ages with clunking on both sides. The reality is this:

Drop links - when the joints go they clunk - if one catastrophically fails then you lose the benefit of the Anti roll bar - i.e. your van will roll/wallow on the bends more. You'll know when it's happened but it shouldn't be dramatic.

Lower wishbone ball joints - the clunking is the ball moving laterally and vertically in the ball socket. Worse case scenario - total joint failure - this would allow the underside of the brake assembly to separate from the wishbone. Your front wheel would have nothing stopping the bottom from moving outwards, away from the vehicle - causing wheel collapse and suspension damage. More serious.

I kept an eye on mine so have no concerns. Plus, a gently knocking joint should not get much worse without a lot of bumping around. Your call of course, but in my opinion, no need to rush to the garage and put your car on bricks, but get it sorted soon, as it needs doing.
Thanks for this. It only really happens over pesky speed humps (which I try and avoid anyway) and it's a bit worse going over bumps downhill.

Are ball sockets and wishbones not covered in a standard MOT?
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Re: Clunking noise

Post by Dodgey » Tue May 21, 2013 12:05 pm

Mike - very good point - forgot that!

ARB bushes - not done mine but its normally a case of removing 2 bolts for each bracket, ARB drops, swap bushes, rebolt. Normally very easy. Might need a breaker bar again.

Balljoints are definitely covered in an MOT - if there is noticeable play in the joint it will fail. It will also fail if the rubber dust cover is badly compromised. The wishbone itself is just a chunk of metal. If it is badly rusted you'd fail.

A normal service won't nesc. notice work ball joints as you have to pry them with a crow bar to tell if there is any movement. That's pretty much what they do in an MOT.

Mine clunked like a loon, even on smooth roads. Sounds like yours is early days as far as wear goes.
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helen&tony
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Re: Clunking noise

Post by helen&tony » Tue May 21, 2013 3:08 pm

Hi
Bushes aren't too much trouble...just as you describe....BUT the rear bushes bolts are prone to snapping unless you plus-gas them for a couple of days
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Helen
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