Silly question - how do I do an oil and dispose of it
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- mikeonb4c
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Silly question - how do I do an oil and dispose of it
I've not actually changed the oil on a car in 30 years. Is it easy to change the oil on a Bongo without a workshop manual. Also, in this age of environmental this and that, what do you drain your oil into (thats big enough to take a Bongos worth of oil) and how do you dispose of it? Can it all be done without ramps or a pit or whatever?
Grateful fo an idiots guide & then I'll give it a go.
Mike
PS - presume buy oil filter from bongobits? Any other bits?
Grateful fo an idiots guide & then I'll give it a go.
Mike
PS - presume buy oil filter from bongobits? Any other bits?
Buy a cheap washing up bowl and a funnel......drain the oil into the bowl and then into the empty oil container when you have refilled the Bongo...you may need an extra empty 2 litre coke bottle....your local recycle centre should have a facility for waste oil..........sorry but never changed the oil on my Bongo myself but there will be someone who has along soon with some tips......Alan
Alan...still plodding on....!
If my ever fading memory serves me well ...I recall that our own Victor Meldrew...aka...Colin bought his oil frm Tesco as he said that it is of the hghest quality so why spend more than you hae to...?....he is after all our very own oil guru and we all respect his judgement.....Alan....too tired to find his post at the moent...spend too much time zapping spammers on here at the moment......Alan
Alan...still plodding on....!
Mike,
See the Lubricants fact sheet written by my own fair hand in the members area.
The 2 most inportant things are to buy oil of the correct quality and viscosity.
Mazda quote 10w/30 for the Bongo. But assuming yours has covered a fair few miles and you don't appear to live in deepest, darkest, coldest Northern Scotland, I shouldn't get too worked up about it.
I live in Poole (still 54f here), my Bongalow has done 28,000 miles from new and I use Tesco 15w/40. BUT it is the HIGHEST API spec. My personal opinion is that if you cannot get an engine running on Synthetic or semi/s before 20k miles, you are wasting your money. Better by far to by the latest API spec oil as cheap as possible and change it more frequently.
One thing you MUST get before changing your oil is a new copper ring for the sump plug. I'm sure somebody will tell you the size. I must admit, although I have been under cars (as a hobby) all my life, I am too damn old now so I pays my money and lets someone else do the dirty work!.
Have fun, don't forget to warm the engine up before draining and don't then burn your arm as the oil runs down into your arm pit. It always does
See the Lubricants fact sheet written by my own fair hand in the members area.
The 2 most inportant things are to buy oil of the correct quality and viscosity.
Mazda quote 10w/30 for the Bongo. But assuming yours has covered a fair few miles and you don't appear to live in deepest, darkest, coldest Northern Scotland, I shouldn't get too worked up about it.
I live in Poole (still 54f here), my Bongalow has done 28,000 miles from new and I use Tesco 15w/40. BUT it is the HIGHEST API spec. My personal opinion is that if you cannot get an engine running on Synthetic or semi/s before 20k miles, you are wasting your money. Better by far to by the latest API spec oil as cheap as possible and change it more frequently.
One thing you MUST get before changing your oil is a new copper ring for the sump plug. I'm sure somebody will tell you the size. I must admit, although I have been under cars (as a hobby) all my life, I am too damn old now so I pays my money and lets someone else do the dirty work!.
Have fun, don't forget to warm the engine up before draining and don't then burn your arm as the oil runs down into your arm pit. It always does

- mikeonb4c
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Thanks Colin - that is excellent advice. I'll look up the lubricants sheet.
Anyone advise me on whether it is practical to try an oil change with no ramps and no pit (will I be able to get underneath and remove the sump plug).
Also, where can a replacement copper washer be obtained as per Colins advice?
I'll need to get a big flat bath/tray too I guess for the oil to go into. Guess I use the old oil cans to put the old oil in!
I should stop trying to save money and start growing old gracefully!
Mike
Anyone advise me on whether it is practical to try an oil change with no ramps and no pit (will I be able to get underneath and remove the sump plug).
Also, where can a replacement copper washer be obtained as per Colins advice?
I'll need to get a big flat bath/tray too I guess for the oil to go into. Guess I use the old oil cans to put the old oil in!
I should stop trying to save money and start growing old gracefully!
Mike
I bought a big hexagonal plastic tray with walls (used for mixing concrete on) from Wickes for about 15 quid. I use it under all my cars when dropping oil etc. It saves staining the block paving.
Yes you can drop the oil into an old washing up bowl (even with the tray underneath) without jacking the van up.
I know professional mechanics recommend changing the crush washer on the sump plug at every oil change but I've been servicing my own cars for over 30 years now and never had a problem with not doing so.
Yes you can drop the oil into an old washing up bowl (even with the tray underneath) without jacking the van up.
I know professional mechanics recommend changing the crush washer on the sump plug at every oil change but I've been servicing my own cars for over 30 years now and never had a problem with not doing so.
You can get a creosote substitute which is just as good without the nasties. I never use that water based stuff - it's rubbish, no matter what pretty colours it comes in. A few years ago my neigbour and I replaced our fences at the same time with the same panels. He has painted his a couple of times with the water based paint and I've done mine with the creosote / oil mix - his is now rotting but mine's fine.You can't mix used oil with creosote anymore, the green brigade have banned proper creosote, hence all the colours you can now do your fence, shed etc in.
And a bloody good thing too! - I'd rather it get re-cycled and used for something useful than polluting a river somewhere killing wildlife.The greenies have also put the mockers on parking over a roadside drain and letting the oil go down it.
- Simon Jones
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One word of caution - make sure you use a decent socket & extension bar. A previous owner to me had rounded the flats off which made it tricky to remove. I think its a 19mm socket.
Also, dont use ramps other wise it will be on an angle & it wont drain out.
Do be prepared to make a huge mess! It will probably be ok, but dont do it on your best Axminster!
I bought a proper thing from Halfords which is like a 6 ltr plastic gerry can which has a recessed side so acts as a big tray. You can then take it to your local disposal point at the dump & empty it there.
Dont forget to change the filter - it is supposed to be changed every other oil change, but I would rather be safe than sorry. This can be tricky & messy to remove, but nothing to worry about.
Final point - do change the washer, but it is worth putting a drop of non-setting gasket goo (like Hylomar) where it meets the sump. I fitted a new washer recently, but it now drips, so I will wait until next oil change & put some sealant on.
Also, dont use ramps other wise it will be on an angle & it wont drain out.
Do be prepared to make a huge mess! It will probably be ok, but dont do it on your best Axminster!
I bought a proper thing from Halfords which is like a 6 ltr plastic gerry can which has a recessed side so acts as a big tray. You can then take it to your local disposal point at the dump & empty it there.
Dont forget to change the filter - it is supposed to be changed every other oil change, but I would rather be safe than sorry. This can be tricky & messy to remove, but nothing to worry about.
Final point - do change the washer, but it is worth putting a drop of non-setting gasket goo (like Hylomar) where it meets the sump. I fitted a new washer recently, but it now drips, so I will wait until next oil change & put some sealant on.
When changing the oil and filter, I place a small container on top of the engine undertray (under the Filter) this collects the filter oil spill, and saves filling the undertray with used oil. I also lay on top of an old cardboard box that a freezer came in, (most small electrical shops are keen to give them away). It insulates me from the ground and also absorbs any spillages.
Shakey

Lots of good advice here.
I use the cheapest oil from Costco its about a £1 a litre. However I change the oil every 3000 kilometres and at each change I flush with the same oil and the oil filter once a year.
It is cost effective compared to the expensive oils.
When you look at engine oil for a Bongo look for the API code it will be something like API SJ/CF the C is for compression ignition the S is for spark ignition the later the letter in the alphabet following those prefixes the more up to date the spec.
A word of warning on replacing the copper washer, get the exact size as an oversize washer will impinge on the sump.
And make sure you have plenty of protection on your drive. It can get very messy.
I use the cheapest oil from Costco its about a £1 a litre. However I change the oil every 3000 kilometres and at each change I flush with the same oil and the oil filter once a year.
It is cost effective compared to the expensive oils.
When you look at engine oil for a Bongo look for the API code it will be something like API SJ/CF the C is for compression ignition the S is for spark ignition the later the letter in the alphabet following those prefixes the more up to date the spec.
A word of warning on replacing the copper washer, get the exact size as an oversize washer will impinge on the sump.
And make sure you have plenty of protection on your drive. It can get very messy.
